Last post on Oct 29, 2012 at 9:32 PM
You are in the Toyota Avalon
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Toyota Avalon, Oil, Sedan
#7 of 298 Heater Fan
Jan 10, 2003 (7:59 am)
1998 Toyota Avalon v6 mileage: 55k. Without warning, the air conditioner & fans quit working. This car has an outside air temp display & it suddenly does not show a temperature reading. I checked every fuse I could find. All OK. The car starts & runs fine & all other electrical works, i.e., lights, rear defroster, windows, door locks, seats. It is equipped with an auto mode for the air with a temperature adjustment that will control the blower speeds. This is not working, or if you try to punch manual blower speeds, (each button will light up) but will not turn fan on, or if you push the a/c button, will not work or light up. No engine service light either?
#8 of 298 30k Scheduled Maintenance
Jan 15, 2003 (6:49 pm)
It's that time, and I need some advice dealing with the dealer. My 2000 Avalon XLS runs fine, I'm using a 7500-mile interval, and I live in south-central NJ near the the coast.
My maintenance guide says to replace the following: engine air filter, coolant, a/c filter, oil&filter. Also rotate tires and inspect lots of stuff. On the other hand, my dealer says I should do a bunch of extra stuff, like replace spark plugs, clean disc brakes, adjust engine idle speed, clean throttle positioner system (do I have one?), and NOT change the a/c filter. They'll do all that for a mere $300!
So should I tell them only to do what's in the maintenance schedule, plus the a/c filter? What's a good price for that? And why does the dealer discourage me from touching the a/c filter anyway? I've never had it replaced.
#9 of 298 rmsachs
Jan 15, 2003 (10:54 pm)
What is the mileage of your car? 7500, 15000, 100,000? It's hard to answer your question without knowing the total miles.
#10 of 298 30k Maintenance Miles
Jan 17, 2003 (4:02 am)
Jim, I'm talking about my 30,000 mile service. Actually, I have 31,000 miles now.
Jan 21, 2003 (10:45 pm)
skip all that other junk - the plugs are made to go 60K, not 30, and they are very expensive to replace ahead of their time. The disc brakes don't need cleaning, unless you notice excessive squeak when you apply them. I can't recall if you have a TPS, but they certainly don't need to adjust the idle speed, the computer controls all that stuff nowadays. This makes me wonder: some of these things only apply to significantly older models than the car you have, and is it possible you are just reading their standard catch-all maintenance list? They use these lists on an "as applicable" basis to cover all models for all years.
The cabin air filter is a tricky one - are you sure it is not supposed to be replaced at some odd maintenance interval like 22.5K or 37.5K? If you have never had it done, just ask them to tack it on to the service you are going to have them perform. And you are allowed to bring your manual with you to the dealership and go through it item by item to show them exactly what services you would like done.
Every dealership has a different idea of what they think is the absolutely perfect maintenance schedule for your car, and how can they all be right??!! With Toyotas, doing what is asked for in the manual will not only ensure you meet the warranty requirements, but it will keep the car running for a long time as well. There is no need for extra stuff.
Feb 04, 2003 (5:16 am)
The dealer is adding on his maintenance items to make a boat payment. Not needed. The only thing I would question that you are doing is the 7500 oil change intervals. If you are using synthetic fine if not the Toyota V6 scares me the way they beat up oil and unless it is highway miles you may be creating a sludge monster out there using dino and 7500.
#13 of 298 98 Avalon spark plugs/online
Feb 17, 2003 (7:29 am)
My inlaws Avalon have the direct ignition system. How do you remove the ignition coil/wire to access the spark plugs. Is this a simple project? I have changed the old distributor system wires and plugs on all my other cars. This is the first distributorless vehicle I have attempted. Can you give me step by step instructions? Also, Is there a good online toyota parts distributor where I can pick up the platinum plugs at a price cheaper than the dealer? Do they use NGk or Nippondenso? Thank you for your assistance. Dan
#14 of 298 2000 avalon xls major tune-up
Feb 18, 2003 (10:47 am)
I just had the pleasure (or displeasure) of dealing with the 60,000 major maintenance items. I started off with a fuel system cleaning using the techron concentrate. Followed up by a pcv valve, and changing out of the plugs. I had originally taken the car in to the dealer, and was more than a little bit shocked by their profit motives. Lets just say they were a bit excessive in their pricing structure. I picked up a copy of the haynes manual in hopes that it would be helpful during the tuneup. While it did have good information, it was not very throrough. For instance it did show the basics of the plug change procedure, it did NOT indicate what needed to be removed to change the rear bank of plugs. The front 3 were very simple to get to, just remove the v-galley cover, which was 3 5mm hex nuts, and spinning the toyota logo to remove it. Then remove the coil hold-down bolts, pull the coil module out, and remove and replace the plugs. once I had removed the front plugs and changed them out, I got a good look at the old plugs. This is when I discovered I was replacing irridium plugs with platinum. Right away alarm bells went off in my head. Weren't the irridium plugs good for 120,000 miles? So why was my toyota dealer insisting my platinum plugs needed to be changed? I had already invested the money to purchase the correct tools, supplies and manuals, and was halfway done with the repairs. So I decided I would forge onward, since the new plugs were of the correct range and type. I am going to hang on to the original iridium plugs and have them cleaned and inspected. If they are still good after this, I will hang onto them and reinstall them at 120,000 miles. Now I continued on the rear bank of plugs. Number 3 cylinder was reasonably easy to get to. I used a standard ratchet and plug socket. I had to reach down between the intake plenum and the throttle body. Number 2 cylinder was just as easy, albeit, I was removing and replacing bolts I could only feel, not see while I was turning them. The real fun ocurred on everybodies favorite, cylinder number 1. I looked at this, and looked at it, in sort of disbelief. I am guess either the dealer techs are very skinny, or they remove the intake plenum. or possibly get at them from underneath on a lift. I certainly didnt have these options available to me in a suburban garage. I tried several times to remove the coil holddown bolt from the same hole I used for 2 and 3. I did manage to get it out, and dropped it into the lower a-arm on the passenger side. This created a 15 minute diversion to retrieve the bolt. It was then I tried to pull the coil off the plug that I discover there was a hose blocking it from moving back enough to remove completely. I then discovered that this was the pcv valve hose. I made a note of this, and then had to remove a nut holding some wires to the end of the intake plenum. Once I removed the wires and bracket, I was able to gain access to cylinder number 1 from the passenger side of the engine compartment. Once I had access I removed the pcv valve and moved the hose out of the way so I could remove the coil and replace the last spark plug. I then removed the original pcv valve, which was encrusted with a black gritty oily substance, I would guess might be oil. if the pcv valve looked like this, what does my engine look like inside? that scares me. I purchased the car at 44,000 former lease miles. Lets say the early ownership of the car lacked regular maintenance. Once I replaced the pcv valve and reattached the hose, clamps and the electrical wires. I then put the galley cover on and checked to be sure I had removed any tools etc... from the engine compartment. I then fired it up and took it for a test drive. Ran just great. I can say pretty confidently that anyone reasonably familiar with a ratchet and tight places can accomplish the plug replacement and pcv valve replacements with ease. While not a totally pleasant experience, you can certainly save a couple of hundred bucks. I know its not nearly as awful as a couple of chevy beretta 3.8 litre v-6 plug jobs I was involved with, those were truly evil jobs to do, involving multiple extension bars and universal joints, ramps and laying underneath the car. Anyone else have some input on this topic? have I done right to continue replacing my iridium plugs with bosch platinums? Feedback is welcomed.
Feb 18, 2003 (10:27 pm)
My vehicles get the filters changed per schedule and same with fluids/oil at "severe" rate. As to spark plugs...I monitor gas mileage closely and when "highway" mileage drops (5% to 10% range)...and plugs have been in engine more than 60K...then I have plugs changed.
This, of course, doesn't apply to the 120K plugs.
#16 of 298 Avalon Plugs
Feb 19, 2003 (6:04 am)
Wmmunn, Thank you very much for your detailed description of the plug change. I also bought a haynes manual but was disappointed in the lack of detail. I have owned a 1987 Beretta V-6 and hated changing the plugs on that car. As far as the plugs, I like NGK or Denso plugs. They seem to work well with most Toyota and Hondas. Any idea of a good website to purchase plugs and Toyota parts online? Thanks again. Dan