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Toyota Avalon Basic Maintenance Questions

298 messages,  Last post on Oct 29, 2012 at 9:32 PM

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What is this discussion about? Toyota Avalon, Oil, Sedan

Messages Page 30 of 30

#289 of 298 Re: 2001 toyota avalon park brake ajustment [stan600] by MrShift@Edmunds HOST

Jun 16, 2009 (9:51 am)

Replying to: stan600 (Jun 15, 2009 3:20 pm)
glad it was helpful, and welcome to this topic!
 
Visiting Host

#291 of 298 Re: 2001 toyota avalon park brake ajustment [Mr_Shiftright] by 99av190k

Oct 02, 2010 (10:42 pm)

Replying to: MrShift@Edmunds (Jun 15, 2009 6:58 am)
Mr. Shiftright - which direction do I turn the adjuster - up or down?
 
to all -
I just had all my rotors turned and replaced the pads. It feels great now - nobody got hurt on my test drive! I fully endorse having the rotors turned, just be aware as they get thinner they will warp more easily.

#292 of 298 Re: 2001 toyota avalon park brake ajustment [99av190k] by MrShift@Edmunds HOST

Oct 03, 2010 (9:11 am)

Replying to: 99av190k (Oct 02, 2010 10:42 pm)
Well you turn it until they lock, like it says. If it's not one way, it's the other---you should know pretty quick.

#293 of 298 '05 Sienna fan belts by twinb

Oct 07, 2010 (5:19 pm)

On our '05 Sienna the fan belts have been squeaking for a month or two. I've sprayed the fan belt lubricant onto them & the pulleys several times but the noise keeps returning shortly afterward. They're the originals. Do I need to get them replaced, with 88K miles on it? Thanks for any advice.

#294 of 298 Re: '05 Sienna fan belts [twinb] by MrShift@Edmunds HOST

Oct 07, 2010 (6:06 pm)

Replying to: twinb (Oct 07, 2010 5:19 pm)
Spray won't work. At 88K the belts are toast, so yeah, better do it. It's sound preventative maintenance and we'll give you a gold star for doing it!
 
Also when the belts are replaced you might want to consider replacing, or at least carefully inspecting, the idler pulley bearings.

#295 of 298 Re: '05 Sienna fan belts [Mr_Shiftright] by twinb

Oct 08, 2010 (2:16 pm)

Replying to: MrShift@Edmunds (Oct 07, 2010 6:06 pm)
Thanks man, I appreciate the advice. Will do.

#296 of 298 Re: Monroe Sensa Trac or KYB GR2 [bigroz8000] by rmiska1

Oct 20, 2010 (10:11 am)

Replying to: bigroz8000 (May 16, 2009 3:33 am)
I have had a 97 avalon, have a 2001 avalon and a 2006. I have put KYB GR2 struts on the
97 and 2001. The 97 ran to 275K and the struts were still great when it was totaled. At that time
I had to put Toyota on the Front (at 100K miles) I had hit an armadillo and got a knock when I hit just the right bump. I had to change the strut bearing also to make the knock go away.
I changed the 2001 at 130Kmi and put new strut bearings and KYB GR2s all the way around.
a little stiffer ride but handles like its on railroad tracks.

#297 of 298 Re: Answer 331/hank14 [abfisch] by orangeup

Oct 29, 2012 (8:03 pm)

Replying to: abfisch (Jan 28, 2004 12:47 pm)
I own a 2000 Avalon and indeed it shares the same fluid reservoir. The Haynes manual did not specify this, it mentions only the Lexus ES300. When I removed a small bolt above the differential drain plug it started running out with clean fluid and since I just replaced the ATF I knew it was a shared reservoir. I just had to put 4 oz back in.

#298 of 298 Re: How many Spark plugs in Avalon? [shysnow] by orangeup

Oct 29, 2012 (9:32 pm)

Replying to: shysnow (Nov 05, 2005 1:28 am)
The 3 spark plugs on the firewall side, cyl 1-3-5, are though to do, but not impossible with the right tools. Every plug had it own way. The electrical connectors are a pain in the ace to get lose and you don't want to break them or you're in deep poop. You will find that there is just enough room to remove all 3 coil pack studs. To do the middle one leave the outside coil pack studs off but put the new spark plugs in, so you don't drop any debris in cylinder head. Too loosen the coil pack bolts short 10 mm wrenches are a must. I found my battery ratchet wrench very helpful. You need a spark plug socket that grips the plug and various length extensions and a elbow joint to work around a corner. Hint: After you loosen the bolt that holds the little coil pack on, take the bolt out first a.s.a.p. so you don't drop it taking the coil pack stud out. (I'm still looking for one. $^%$##$) The middle you can do (must) coming in with a hand from each side underneath the plenum. The middle plug has more space to maneuver your socket wrench and ratchet then the outside ones. With fat underarms it was hard to get both hands under the plenum at the same time only working by touch while your hanging over the engine. A beer gut does provide a little cushion here. It took 4 hours of patient and careful work, this 1st time. To loosen the connector I found a needle nose pliers to work great coming in on back of the connector but be careful not to crack the plastic. Unfortunately that direction is not accessible on Cylinder 5 since it is facing away from you. I just never disconnected it and managed to get it out of the way connected to the coil pack stud so I could do the middle one. Anyway good luck, be careful, don't give up, and don't drop anything. This is doable but you will have lots of nicks on your arms and knuckles.

Messages Page 30 of 30

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