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Yukon "Reduced Engine Power message"

74 messages,  Last post on Oct 12, 2009 at 9:54 PM

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What is this discussion about? GMC Yukon Denali, GMC Yukon XL, Car Safety, Electrical, Engine, SUV

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#8 of 74 FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!! by stephc1 Sep 17, 2006 (5:38 am)
Don't pay huge money for diagnostics...please read!!!! I finally found someone that fixed my YXL and fixed it right...The problem is the ground wires. My mechanic tightened one that he found loose and the other one the clamp was messed up so the ground wire was flopping around and not making a good connection. When he touched the ground wire he could hear the fuel pump going on and off and other things making noises. It was a $3 dollar clamp that fixed it...too bad I spent almost $2000 on diagnostics with the dealership that was trying to tell me I had a bad transfer case module as well as a bunch of other BS and another mechanic before I brought it to this guy. Make sure your mechanic checks all the grounds (I didn't know that there's more than one) and tightens them as well as making sure the clamps are in good condition. My clamp was broken causing a bad connection. So...it's a $3 part that caused this hellified problem! I'm just glad to have my vehicle back in good running condition...no thanks to the dealership or GMC! Replies to this message: fundad (Apr 15, 2007 8:50 pm) twidget2 (Dec 04, 2007 2:18 pm) yukon03 (Apr 14, 2009 6:31 am) rsht (Apr 16, 2009 3:54 pm)
#9 of 74 still running great... by stephc1 Oct 04, 2006 (3:25 am)
Just wanted to let you all know that the last repair I posted about seems to have really worked. I was nervous for a while...waiting for my vehicle to die again but so far so good. (I'm probably going to jinx myself by writing this..lol.) Replies to this message: jtallen (Nov 24, 2006 8:18 am)
#11 of 74 99 Denali rear brakes by bct Oct 22, 2006 (10:18 am)
I was wondering if anyone knows of a way to convert the rear drum brakes on a 1999 Yukon Denali to disc. Any help would be great, stopping a 3 ton truck is not fun with those stock brakes. That may be why they changed the rears to disc on the 01.
#12 of 74 Re Conversion from drum brkakes to rear disc by beaudoin Oct 22, 2006 (11:32 am)
http://www.classicindustries.com/pdf/Truck-Susp.RearEnd&Brakes.pdf   please check this site and you will find a complete conversion kit available to you ...hgb
#13 of 74 Re: still running great... [stephc1] by jtallen Nov 24, 2006 (8:18 am)
Replying to: stephc1 (Oct 04, 2006 3:25 am) Hi there. I'm glad I found your postings. I just bought a 2001 Yukon Denali and it stalled on me the very day I was driving it home from the dealership. It started back up so I didn't think much about it. The next day it died and I had a hard time doing anything. It would sputter and die over and over. If I did get it started it would die if I got it up to 10 mph our so. Can you tell me where these ground wires are that you were talking about? Are they grounds for the fuel pump? are they located inside the tank? Any info you can give would be greatly appreciated. I am so sick that I spent that kind of money and it breaks down the same day I buy it.
#14 of 74 Rear end by bct Nov 26, 2006 (7:37 am)
The rear end in my 1999 Yukon Denali just blew up. Haven't taken it apart yet but something actually came through the cover from the inside out. I was wondering if anyone knew if I could get a rear end from a junk yard with disc brakes on it that would just bolt in place. I figure that if I have to change the rear end I might as well upgrade it to discs instead of those drums, plus the tow truck driver managed to kill the wheel cylinder on the passenger side anyway. Any help would be great, thank you.
#15 of 74 Re: update on the reduced engone power thing.. BEWARE!!!! [bonddog] by hershbbk Apr 15, 2007 (8:13 am)
Replying to: bonddog (Sep 05, 2006 1:06 pm) Hello everyone, I also have a 2003 Yukon. I have had the engine light on the last few weeks, have had it diagnosed, One place stated it was Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter, another o2 Sensor and another Mass Air Flow Sensor. I replace Fuel Filter. Light went away for a while. Its back on I had it diagnosed after unpluging the MAF Sensor and it gave the same codes as a bad MAF Sensor. This morning I went to start my car, it started then stopped, and the code that you all are talking about speared for the first time. Reduced Engine Power, and it will not start. Can anyone tell me what ground wires were found bad, or if anyone has a fix to get the vehicle started? Thanks Brian Replies to this message: beaudoin (Apr 16, 2007 3:30 am) bulldog15 (Jun 01, 2007 11:50 am)
#16 of 74 Re: FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!! [stephc1] by fundad Apr 15, 2007 (8:50 pm)
Replying to: stephc1 (Sep 17, 2006 5:38 am) That doesnt surprise me a bit. Most "hard to find" electrical problems are bad grounds. A friend of mine works at a Chevy shop and told me that they are told to replace parts before looking for bad grounds. He said he was actually told to do this for "repeat work". Anytime you take a vehicle in to any shop for repair work you get ripped off. Do you really believe those hourly rates to do work. Had an intake crack and was told $1400 to replace it. I bought a new intake off the internet for $199.00 (dealer wanted $799.00) and it only took 90 minutes from first opening the hood till I had it running with the new one on. The dealer told me 7.5hrs labor 80.00/hr to do it plus parts. What a crock.
#17 of 74 Re: update on the reduced engone power thing.. BEWARE!!!! [hershbbk] by beaudoin Apr 16, 2007 (3:30 am)
Replying to: hershbbk (Apr 15, 2007 8:13 am) Hi I spoke to Steph mechanic by phone the problems you are experiencing are all pointing to a low fuel pressure, the computer looks at all perimeters and makes a call via codes,the reduce power light is st when the abs sees a wheel spin, or thinks its sees a wheel spin and disables the throttle from being active hence you cannot move forward any faster, disabling the 4x4 to two wheel drive should allow the vehicle to move forward most causes of this particular code is set by rust build up under the front wheel speed sensors. Bonddog, I would suggest that a fuel pressure test be performed using a know good fuel pressure gauge should have 60psi minimum (critical) with the key being cycled on, pump is purchased as a complete module assembly very expensive and fuel filter should be performed when replacing the pump. In summary the lean codes that were set were probably set due to low fuel volume, If you turn the light off and changed the filter and got a few extra miles you can bet on a pump, sorry for the news....hank "Reduce power is altogether another bag of tricks to worry about.

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