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Yukon "Reduced Engine Power message"

74 messages,  Last post on Oct 12, 2009 at 9:54 PM

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What is this discussion about? GMC Yukon Denali, GMC Yukon XL, Car Safety, Electrical, Engine, SUV

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#14 of 74 Rear end by bct Nov 26, 2006 (7:37 am)
The rear end in my 1999 Yukon Denali just blew up. Haven't taken it apart yet but something actually came through the cover from the inside out. I was wondering if anyone knew if I could get a rear end from a junk yard with disc brakes on it that would just bolt in place. I figure that if I have to change the rear end I might as well upgrade it to discs instead of those drums, plus the tow truck driver managed to kill the wheel cylinder on the passenger side anyway. Any help would be great, thank you.
#15 of 74 Re: update on the reduced engone power thing.. BEWARE!!!! [bonddog] by hershbbk Apr 15, 2007 (8:13 am)
Replying to: bonddog (Sep 05, 2006 1:06 pm) Hello everyone, I also have a 2003 Yukon. I have had the engine light on the last few weeks, have had it diagnosed, One place stated it was Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter, another o2 Sensor and another Mass Air Flow Sensor. I replace Fuel Filter. Light went away for a while. Its back on I had it diagnosed after unpluging the MAF Sensor and it gave the same codes as a bad MAF Sensor. This morning I went to start my car, it started then stopped, and the code that you all are talking about speared for the first time. Reduced Engine Power, and it will not start. Can anyone tell me what ground wires were found bad, or if anyone has a fix to get the vehicle started? Thanks Brian Replies to this message: beaudoin (Apr 16, 2007 3:30 am) bulldog15 (Jun 01, 2007 11:50 am)
#16 of 74 Re: FOUND THE PROBLEM!!!!!!!!! [stephc1] by fundad Apr 15, 2007 (8:50 pm)
Replying to: stephc1 (Sep 17, 2006 5:38 am) That doesnt surprise me a bit. Most "hard to find" electrical problems are bad grounds. A friend of mine works at a Chevy shop and told me that they are told to replace parts before looking for bad grounds. He said he was actually told to do this for "repeat work". Anytime you take a vehicle in to any shop for repair work you get ripped off. Do you really believe those hourly rates to do work. Had an intake crack and was told $1400 to replace it. I bought a new intake off the internet for $199.00 (dealer wanted $799.00) and it only took 90 minutes from first opening the hood till I had it running with the new one on. The dealer told me 7.5hrs labor 80.00/hr to do it plus parts. What a crock.
#17 of 74 Re: update on the reduced engone power thing.. BEWARE!!!! [hershbbk] by beaudoin Apr 16, 2007 (3:30 am)
Replying to: hershbbk (Apr 15, 2007 8:13 am) Hi I spoke to Steph mechanic by phone the problems you are experiencing are all pointing to a low fuel pressure, the computer looks at all perimeters and makes a call via codes,the reduce power light is st when the abs sees a wheel spin, or thinks its sees a wheel spin and disables the throttle from being active hence you cannot move forward any faster, disabling the 4x4 to two wheel drive should allow the vehicle to move forward most causes of this particular code is set by rust build up under the front wheel speed sensors. Bonddog, I would suggest that a fuel pressure test be performed using a know good fuel pressure gauge should have 60psi minimum (critical) with the key being cycled on, pump is purchased as a complete module assembly very expensive and fuel filter should be performed when replacing the pump. In summary the lean codes that were set were probably set due to low fuel volume, If you turn the light off and changed the filter and got a few extra miles you can bet on a pump, sorry for the news....hank "Reduce power is altogether another bag of tricks to worry about.
#18 of 74 REDUCED ENGINE POWER by clintdowns May 31, 2007 (10:43 am)
Hello to all. I am new at this, this is the first time that I have looked at this site. I just took my truck into the shop today for the second time in three weeks for the reduced engine power coming on. When it happens, it runs like shit. the first time I tool it is they sais that the machine told them to replace the throttle positioning sensor, well guess what, it told them the same thing today. One more time and do I have what they consider a lemon. Any feedback, what do I do.
#19 of 74 REDUCED ENGINE POWER by clintdowns May 31, 2007 (10:44 am)
By the way I have a 2006 Chevy crew cab LT Silverado
#20 of 74 Re: update on the reduced engone power thing.. BEWARE!!!! [hershbbk] by bulldog15 Jun 01, 2007 (11:50 am)
Replying to: hershbbk (Apr 15, 2007 8:13 am) I have a 2006 Grand Prix with 10,000 miles. Two months ago I started getting "service traction control"/"reduced engine power" messages and couldn't get the car to go over 15mph. Took it into a Pontiac dealer and they replaced the throttle body. Two days later, same thing happened and the dealer replaced the accelerator sensor. Three days later, back in the shop where they replaced the powertrain computer module. Two days later, back in where it stayed for five weeks while they tried to figure out what to do. Finally, GM tech pinpointed the problem and the dealer replaced the fuse box. I've had it for two weeks now without further problems however, I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
#21 of 74 Update on '06 Yukon Reduced Power by bonddog Jun 01, 2007 (1:01 pm)
I started this thread last August 2006. Since they replaced my Throttlebody I have not had the "Reduced Engine Power" problem. It's been 9 months now and trouble free. It turned out it was the throttlebody all along but the GMC mechanics did a lousy job of fixing it the first few times in that they didn't notice that they had crimpped some wire when they installed it causing it to malfunction. Believe it or not some newer Corvettes have experienced this problem too.
#22 of 74 REDUCED ENGINE POWER - PROBLEM SOLVED by bunchz71 Aug 07, 2007 (9:10 pm)
Hello all,   I just wanted to share with everyone with the problem that I had with my 2003 1500HD Crew Cab with 6.0 Liter. My truck would go into reduced engine power off and on. Sometimes one a week, sometimes 5 times on a 20 mile trip. My problem was a broken wire on the plug in going in to the throttle body. In the picture is the plug in that had caused me all of my pain and grief....... My problem was very intermittent and was hard to diagnose. I started vehicle and with all codes clear. I wiggled the wiring harness in the picture and vehicle spit and sputtered, throwing it into reduced engine power mode, and then smoothed out to a smooth idle. I disconnected the plug and pulled wires out of plug end and found a broken wire. Mine was a brown wire with white stripe. BUT, what was interesting, was that this vehicle had apparently had the smae problem with previous owner, becuz there was another wire (yellow wire) right beside the one that I found broken already soldered up and taped from where it had apparently happened before. This was my problem and not my truck is running great, and actually even idles better that before. Hope this helps with any problems that anyone else is having. I know this problem can be very irritating.   http://i184.photobucket.com/albums/x191/bunchtst/BrokenWire.jpg Replies to this message: heymilton (Aug 23, 2007 4:49 pm) bunchz71 (Aug 27, 2007 8:40 pm) heymilton (Oct 06, 2007 3:08 am) and 4 more... momtofour (Mar 29, 2008 12:50 pm) chucka4 (Aug 24, 2008 11:27 am) 096torrer (Nov 17, 2008 4:54 pm)
#23 of 74 Re: REDUCED ENGINE POWER - PROBLEM SOLVED [bunchz71] by heymilton Aug 23, 2007 (4:49 pm)
Replying to: bunchz71 (Aug 07, 2007 9:10 pm) I just wanted to let you know that I had the exact same problem in my 2001 yukon xl. Reduced engine power happened about 6 times in a couple of months. I was taking it to the dealer for a recall and on the way there it happened again. Frustrated I told them to look at it and fiqure it out. I searched out the best mechanic and he was knowledgeable and worked on it. Said it was a bad ground , charged me 80 bucks and I was on my way. Problem was 5 miles down the road i got reduced engine power again. Turned around and took it back to them. long story short they had it for a week and said they could not fiqure it out . they wanted to throw parts at it starting with a 400 dollar one. I read your thread and told them to check out the wires at the throttle body, they told me they already did, and refused to look at them again. I went and got the truck and decided to go with your suggestion , took apart the cannon plug and found NO broken wires. Decided to replaced the metal contact pins themselves. cut them off and went to a different dealership to parts and look thru a ton of contact until i found the exact ones. replaced them and soldered them just in case and I HAVENT HAD THE PROBLEM SINCE. Im guessing it was just a bad contact pin, just enough to trip the computer.   Thanks for the info , your time writing your thread probably saved me hundreds of dollars.   FYI I have never taken a vehicle in my entire life to a dealership for repair , they are thiefs. Look and ask around for a local repair shop with a good reputation. you will save alot of money, and I am NOT talking about a Firestone or something like that, more of a mom and pa shop   BTW,,,,,,,,,,,,I am a american airlines aircraft mechanic for the last 20 years Replies to this message: bunchz71 (Aug 27, 2007 8:40 pm) heymilton (Oct 06, 2007 3:08 am) bunchz71 (Oct 07, 2007 11:31 pm) and 3 more...

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