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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
872 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 1:27 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: pencap (Sep 22, 2009 5:49 pm) The unmodified door lock system is all controlled by the vehicle computer, with software configuration settings loaded by the dealer. WHO KNOWS what this Omega thing has done to the computer controls, I couldn't even hazard to guess. Here's about the only thing I could suggest....Check the following fuses which are all used 'normally' in some manner by the computer for the door lock circuitry: - 25 A Door 1 - 25 A Door 2 - 10 A ECU B#1 - 10 A ECU Ig#1 - 7.5 A ECU-ACC The supplemental restraint fuse circuitry are: -10 A Dome -7.5 A Gauge#2 -10 A MPX-B - 10 A Ign - 10 A ECU B#1 If it's not something simple like a blown fuse, then I think you're going to need to take it back to the Omega installer. I doubt that the dealership would work on it. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 22, 2009 3:24 pm) when i test the actuator, what do i exactly touch? can i use a voltage meter? "circuitry to the actuators" what is this? |
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Replying to: imupabove (Sep 22, 2009 11:00 pm) No you can't use a voltmeter. You are supplying battery power directly to the wires of the actuator, to see if the actuator will work. "circuitry to the actuators" what is this? As mentioned previously, there is a computer circuitry involved. The switches send input signals to the computer, the computer determines what it wants to do, the output of the computer goes to the actuators. Right now, all's you know is that the door locks don't work. You don't know whether the problem is in the switches, the computer, the actuator, or binding in the linkage. So unplugging the actuators from the computer circuitry, and applying power directly to the actuator, breaks up the problem area into a couple pieces so you can start to figure out what pieces work, and what pieces don't. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 23, 2009 3:35 am)
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Replying to: justlost (Sep 23, 2009 12:14 pm) |
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Replying to: justlost (Sep 23, 2009 12:14 pm) Thanks so much kiawah for what you contribute to these boards. Pat
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 23, 2009 3:35 am)
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Replying to: imupabove (Sep 23, 2009 4:12 pm) Another way would be to run wires up to the battery. Connect one black wire to the negative terminal of the battery with a test clip....this will be your ground. Get a small fuse holder with fuse, and put a long red wire on one end of the fuse holder, and a test clip on the other. Connect the test clip to the positive terminal of the battery....this is your positive 13 volts. So you have battery, then test clip connected to the battery terminal, then fuse holder w/fuse, then long red wire over to the car door. Take the two wires over to the actuator, being careful not to touch the red wire to either the black wire or the metal of the car. (If you do, it will blow the small fuse you just put in the holder). Put the voltage directly to the actuator plug as described in previous post. |
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Replying to: pat (Sep 23, 2009 3:51 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (Sep 23, 2009 6:16 pm) Thanks again.
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