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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
871 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:28 PM
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I took the driver's side master window switch out and tried another used switch with no results. All 4 windows do not work from the driver's side and the individual switch at each window also do not work. The power door locks on the driver's side works fine. I checked the fuses in the engine bay and also behind the coin compartment (those that are visible) and all seem to appear okay (used a test light). I took a multimeter to test the harness connector of the master window switch and saw no 12V positive power flowing to any of the wires. The insulation on some of the wires between the door jamb seems to be coming off but I tried jiggling them around while operating the window switches and nothing moved. I'm thinking a fuse or a relay that has gone south.
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Replying to: titus_pullo (Jul 06, 2009 9:41 am) - 25A door - 10A gauge - 30A power Check that they are all good. Cracking insulation is sure recipe to blow fuses
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 05, 2009 12:36 pm) The inegration relay would obviously but I didn't think the door and window motors were behind the other relays. I'm at the office without my wiring diagram. Have a good one
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jul 06, 2009 1:49 pm) Once you verify if the relay is good, then the next place to isolate will be the wires to the stalk switch which you can check. You can check those contacts with ohmmeter. If the stalk switch is then good, then you've proven that your IC is the problem. But at this point, it could be either of the three (and I need to reverify with the schematcis that nothing else could be the problem....I'm shooting from memory here which is always dangerous) Assuming that your wiper is continuing to work, and transmission continuing to shift okay.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 06, 2009 2:38 pm) |
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Hello all, Well I have been working on my Camry 95 V6. Problem I'm having is that I have no tail lights(though the headlights work and the turn signals for the rear work too)/No power to windows or power locks/ the Automatic shifter is locked up/ No lights to the dash either. I have checked the fuses(continuity) and pretty much taken the the whole dash apart. Any insight on how to fix this would be great. Before I pour gas on the car and torch it. lol 
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Replying to: untold1 (Jul 06, 2009 9:38 pm) If they do not, then I suspect you have a blown 10A Gauge fuse. That 10A Gauge fuse also effects the door locks and windows. and then sometimes the root cause of the 10A gauge fuse blowing, is worn wiring in the trunk, up where the wiring comes from the body and attaches to the moving trunk hinge. But we're getting a little a head of ourselves. Check to see if the backup lights work, and if not, check the 10A Gauge fuse in the drivers knee fusebox. It's in the 2nd column from the left. Swap it with another 10A if you need to.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 06, 2009 11:59 am) Thank you for replying to my problem. The 3 fuses that you mention (25A Door, 10A Gauge, 30A Power) are all these located under the dash by the left knee coin door access? Are there any relays that come into play in my case? Thanks very much.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 07, 2009 3:55 am) The back up lights work. I checked the 10A fuse anyway. It was ok. Just a quick explanation of what I have done so far. I have the whole truck and dash apart because I was looking for a a burnt wire or a cut one. Im down to all the wires other than getting the dash board/steering wheel/and passenger air-bag off. Any idea on fuse-able links? I cant seem to get anything that shows them. Though I might be looking in the wrong direction. |
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Replying to: titus_pullo (Jul 07, 2009 8:03 am) 25A Door, is the 4th column over, the middle of 3 10A Gauge, is the 1st column, third up from the bottom 30A Power, is a big fuse off to the lower right. There are 3 bigger fuses in a column, it's the middle one.
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