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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
869 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 5:46 PM
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jun 29, 2009 4:26 am) Check your horn and hazard lights, they should work. Pull the 40A AM1 fuse, and check the voltage on the pin that is feeding that fuse. AM1 is in the fuse panel by your left knee. Underneath the smaller cigar fuse, there are three large fuses in a vertical column. The 40A Def fuse is under the cigar fuse, then under the Def fuse is the 30A Power fuse, then underneath that is the 40A AM1 fuse. With the AM1 fuse pulled, you should have power on the right pin socket (pin 1 - fuse input), and won't have power on the left pin socket (pin 2 - fuse output). If you do NOT have power on pin 1, then your 100A Alt fuse is bad up in the engine compartment fuselink box. If you DO have power on pin 1, then check the continuity of the AM1 fuse. Just for reference purposes, the wiper not working is an important clue. The power to that is fed from one wiperleg of the ignition switch, specifically the AM1 leg. That ignition switch input to the wiper leg is powered by the AM1 fuse. The AM1 fuse gets it's power from the 100A Alt fuse. So wiper not working has nothing to do with the integration relay. You've got a more basic power problem. Assuming your problem is the 100A Alt fuse, be sure to disconnect the battery when replacing...it's hot all the time. After replacing, be sure to go have your alternator checked, most autoparts stores will do that for you. You need to verify that you didn't fry your alternator by jumping incorrectly. With luck, hopefully you've blown just the 100A fuse and not your alternator as well. Let me know how it goes. Goodluck.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 29, 2009 2:42 pm) I was going to say that I had visually checked that fuse and fuselink originally but i'm going to replace the 100a fuselink (since i broke it trying to remove it not realizing its bolted in). I already pulled the alternator and tested it last week after the problem surfaced so I know it isn't fried and I have a new battery. If i replace the fuselink but still am not getting power what do you suggest I check or should I just take it in to the shop at that point. Thanks, Have a good 4th.
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jul 04, 2009 5:25 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 04, 2009 6:02 am) - Battery is good, brand new with new terminals - 100A fuselink is good and brand new - 40A AM1 fuse is good an recieving power (doubly confirmed with multimeter and fuse tester and my alarm went off when i plugged it back in so its completeing the circuit.) - Hazard flashers do work So we are still at were we were in my first post, just know that the fuse and fuselinks are good. Thoughts? Thanks for your help
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jul 04, 2009 9:26 am) - the power from the 100A fuse link goes to two circuits. - the first circuit is to the AM1 fuse as I mentioned. That AM1 fuse feeds one of the wiperlegs (the AM1 leg) of the ignition switch. That wiper leg of the switch connects to: - - the ACC post of the ignition switch, which then powers the 15A cigarette fuse, the 15A power outlet fuse, and the 7.5A rad #2 fuse. Verify that you have power to the cig and power outlets, they're easy to check. If so, that will tell you that the ACC post of your ignition switch is good. Ignition key obviously needs to be in the accessory position. - - the IG1 post of the ignition switch, which then powers the 25A wiper fuse, the 10A Heater fuse, the 10A Gauge fuse, the 7.5A Turn fuse, and the 15A ECU-IG fuse. Verify that you have power to the input of the 25A wiper fuse, if so, that will tell you that the IG1 post of the ignition switch is good. Ign switch obviously needs to be in an ignition position. - The 2nd circuit fed from the 100A fuse link, feeds: - - the 25A door fuse - - the 30A power fuse - - the 40A defogger fuse - - the 7.5A OBD - - and the #5 and #1 pins of the taillight relay. Pull one of those fuses, perhaps the 40A defogger or 30A power, and verify that you are getting power to the input of the fuse. That will confirm that your wiring is making it to that buss. Let me know what you find in each of those two circuits.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 04, 2009 10:09 am) That 25A wiper fuse mentioned above, is tied directly to pin 2 of the washer motor. The pin 1 of the washer motor is what gets grounded out by the switch to to turn the washer motor on. That 25A wiper fuse, also is tied directly to pin 2 of the wiper motor plug, so that's another place you can verify that power is making it all the way thru that wiper fuse.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 04, 2009 10:22 am) Current status - Starts and all powertrain components function - blinkers, hazards, wipers, interior gages all function (far as i have noticed) Not working - headlights - power windows and door locks but this is a good improvment since i can actually drive to the grocery store now heh. Thoughts?
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jul 05, 2009 7:12 am) You may want to swap out your 10A Gauge fuse, with another 10A Gauge fuse. That circuit feeds a lot of control circuitry, I want to eliminate that fuse from being a problem....even though it might look okay to you right now. I'd feel better if we had actually found a failing component above. You need to verify that power is getting up to the second circuit as mentioned above in note 584. Pull those fuses and check that they are getting power fed to them from the buss, and that they are okay. Also check to see if your rear brake lights are working or not, and whether your rear 'running' lights are working (the lights within your brake lights that come on when your headlights are on).
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 05, 2009 7:20 am) My break lights are working, however the rear 'running lights' are not.
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jul 05, 2009 9:23 am) Do you have Daytime Running Lights, or not? DRL = front head lights that are on all the time during the daylight hours
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