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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
858 messages, Last post on Oct 14, 2009 at 7:40 PM
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Replying to: kiawah (Mar 09, 2009 7:40 pm) Thanks again for your help. Wife was complaining now that the weather is getting warm, with no windows working. |
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I heard a clock ticking sound from the fuse box two days ago. It was from the moroon color square 12V relay, which is labeled as "HEAD" on the lid of fuse box. I did not do anything with the sound during past two days and this morning I was not able to start my car--no sound at all. It happened three months ago in the winter that I had tough time to start the car---I had to keep turning the key for several times. What is the problem? Is my battery died? or the battery was drawn by some kind of leakage?
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Replying to: holly99 (Jun 08, 2009 9:42 pm) Many auto parts chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) will do a complimentary check of your battery and alternator under load. You need to make sure you are starting with a good battery voltage of at least 13v. Will the vehicle start with a 'jump', so you can drive it to get the battery/alt checked?
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 09, 2009 4:20 am) |
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Replying to: lizardking (Jul 05, 2007 5:19 am) |
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Hello Initially my '98 Camry LE 4cyl would not start. I had it jumped but it would immediately die when the jumper cables were removed, at which point I assumed the alternator was bad. I pulled the alternator and battery and had the alternator tested which proved to be fine. I replaced the battery and the terminal connectors anyway since it was somewhat corroded and looked like it needed replacing. Now the engine starts fine, however most of the internal electronics are not working. I checked all the fuses and replaced the one that was blown, I believe when I accidently touched the wrong terminal during the jump in my haste to get to the office. At this point the headlights, tail-lights, break-lights, power windows, power locks, transmission shifter, radio, clock and climate control all do not work. However the Interior dome light, trunk light, ignition cylinder light, open door light and open door warning bell all do work, which I believe run directly off the dome fuse and circuit without the integration relay. All of the above has led me to believe that I have a bad integration relay. Do you agree? The only strange thing is that my windshield wipers and washer also don't work with the engine running, which I didn't think needed the integration relay. Also, I went under the dash and disconnected the large and small wire harness connections to the integration relay and unlatched the bottom hook. The integration relay is now moving freely except whatever it is connected/latched to at the top right of the box which I can not see from my vantage point. Is the relay actually plugged in to the fuse-box similar to a normal relay or is there just another latch on the top similar to the one on the bottom? Do i need to move it towards the front of the car or towards the roof of the car to unhook it? I don't want to break something and be unable to replace it. Sorry for the long post, Thanks for your insight.
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jun 29, 2009 4:26 am) Check your horn and hazard lights, they should work. Pull the 40A AM1 fuse, and check the voltage on the pin that is feeding that fuse. AM1 is in the fuse panel by your left knee. Underneath the smaller cigar fuse, there are three large fuses in a vertical column. The 40A Def fuse is under the cigar fuse, then under the Def fuse is the 30A Power fuse, then underneath that is the 40A AM1 fuse. With the AM1 fuse pulled, you should have power on the right pin socket (pin 1 - fuse input), and won't have power on the left pin socket (pin 2 - fuse output). If you do NOT have power on pin 1, then your 100A Alt fuse is bad up in the engine compartment fuselink box. If you DO have power on pin 1, then check the continuity of the AM1 fuse. Just for reference purposes, the wiper not working is an important clue. The power to that is fed from one wiperleg of the ignition switch, specifically the AM1 leg. That ignition switch input to the wiper leg is powered by the AM1 fuse. The AM1 fuse gets it's power from the 100A Alt fuse. So wiper not working has nothing to do with the integration relay. You've got a more basic power problem. Assuming your problem is the 100A Alt fuse, be sure to disconnect the battery when replacing...it's hot all the time. After replacing, be sure to go have your alternator checked, most autoparts stores will do that for you. You need to verify that you didn't fry your alternator by jumping incorrectly. With luck, hopefully you've blown just the 100A fuse and not your alternator as well. Let me know how it goes. Goodluck.
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Replying to: kiawah (Jun 29, 2009 2:42 pm) I was going to say that I had visually checked that fuse and fuselink originally but i'm going to replace the 100a fuselink (since i broke it trying to remove it not realizing its bolted in). I already pulled the alternator and tested it last week after the problem surfaced so I know it isn't fried and I have a new battery. If i replace the fuselink but still am not getting power what do you suggest I check or should I just take it in to the shop at that point. Thanks, Have a good 4th.
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Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jul 04, 2009 5:25 am)
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Replying to: kiawah (Jul 04, 2009 6:02 am) - Battery is good, brand new with new terminals - 100A fuselink is good and brand new - 40A AM1 fuse is good an recieving power (doubly confirmed with multimeter and fuse tester and my alarm went off when i plugged it back in so its completeing the circuit.) - Hazard flashers do work So we are still at were we were in my first post, just know that the fuse and fuselinks are good. Thoughts? Thanks for your help
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