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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
870 messages, Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 9:00 PM
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My Maintenance manual has the relay mentioned on the BE-8 " Location of Switches and Relays" but there is no picture of the relay, only it's name, no arrow. It is listed in the Fuse Block #1 group in parenthesis. I have exposed the Fuse Block under the Driver's side kick panel but cannot identify the INTEGRATION RELAY. It is not labeled on BE-11 either ("Fuse and Relay Blocks"). I need to change this relay but can't find it and don't know what it looks like. Can someone help please? Thanks in advance- -Dave
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Replying to: capndavy (May 07, 2009 3:08 pm)
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Replying to: kiawah (May 07, 2009 4:44 pm) I noticed a largish screw or bolt head at the bottom of the fuse block. Is that the only fastener?? (I can't see the top edge of the fuse block) Thanks again! -Dave
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Replying to: capndavy (May 08, 2009 4:38 am) The integration relay for that year is a big square like thing right above that bolt hole, on the backside. By the way, what was the original problem/symptoms that you were having, and how did you conclude that the integration relay was bad and needs to be replaced? |
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Hi, I am having a problem with fuse 22 blowing that controls guages, power windows, charging system, etc. I replaced it yesterday, and drove 8-10 miles today, then it blew again. Any clue as to where I might look first? Also will the computer show any info? Thanks. John
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Replying to: jillier (May 14, 2009 12:25 pm) For instance, looking for something like: - it is the 30Amp AM2 fuse that is blowing, or - it is the 10Amp Gauge fuse that is blowing, or - it has a marking of 30A, and it is in the engine compartment fuse box on the left fenderwall, and in the lower right corner of that fuse box next to another fuse marked 30A RDI
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Replying to: kiawah (May 14, 2009 12:57 pm) John |
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Replying to: jillier (May 15, 2009 2:06 pm) Unfortunately I'm travelling tonight, and don't have access to my files till late tomorrow night. In the mean time, there is one thing you might look at, is the wiring harness in the trunk. The wires can rub against the trunk frame as the trunk opens and closes....particularly if you've jammed things in the trunk. Look in the drivers side front of trunk. You may have to crawl in the trunk, and open and close the lid to see the movement of wires. This is really a shot in the dark without any diagnosing, but gives you something to look at.
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Replying to: kiawah (May 15, 2009 6:20 pm) |
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Replying to: jillier (May 15, 2009 2:06 pm) As mentioned, the 10A Gauge fuse handles the 'gauge' which is the combination meter....but it also feeds a lot of control circuitry in a number of other devices, so for example, there are devices which take two fuses to work. The 10 gauge fuse feeding the control circuitry, and then another fuse actually feeding the device. But first let me give you everything that is downstream of the 10 gauge fuse in your model. - The ABS (anti-lock braking system) - Backup light - Charging - Combination Meter - Cruise control - Door lock - Electronically controlled transmission and A/T indicator - Engine control (the main engine computer) - Headlight (w/daytime running light) - Key reminder and seat belt warning - Light auto turn off - Moon Roof - Power Window - Stop Light - Tail Light Because this fuse controls so much, it is one of the harder problems to isolate the problem cause. I'd suggest an approach to isolate as follows: - Stop using moon roof, power windows, cruise control, and door locks. If the fuse blows without using any of those, then lower probability that those are the source of your problem. - Look closely and tail lights, stop lights, reverse light bulbs. Make sure all of the filaments look good and the correct filament is working on dual filament bulbs. You may even just go ahead and replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and your vehicle is 9 years old. Check for wire rubbing in the trunk, as mentioned previously. - If you still haven't isolated the problem, get a volt/ohm meter, and meter out the brake switch, the neutral switch, and reverse switch. Work the switch on and off and look for erratic meter movement. - Take your vehicle out to someplace safe, and put it into a panic stop to verify that the ABS system is working correctly. - Still haven't found it, give up and take it to a dealer. The rest will be too hard to work on yourself.
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