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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
869 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 5:46 PM
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 5:31 pm) If you look at the small fuses, the right most column has a 7.5 A Turn, a 7.5A Rad#2, and a 15A Cig small fuse. Continuing down in that same vertical column, is a 40A Defroster fuse, the 30A power fuse, and then the 40A AM1 fuse. Check that big middle 30A fuse.   Free....who said anything about being free?
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 5:39 pm) I would be happy to send you a gift certificate for dinner somewhere. You were a great help. More importantly I am in great need of a competent honest mechanic. You seem to be both. I see you are from raleigh and I happen to live here too. I would very much like to know where you work so I can frequent your place of business. I am a former electricians helper, biomed tech and now a Electrical Engineer with a PE license. Although as you know, all that can't replace practical experience. If you need a reference let me know. Email me at alphawolff  hotmail.com Thanks again
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 6:01 pm) Appreciate the offer for certficate, but take your better half/significant_other/kids out to dinner instead. Glad you found it, and it worked out to be a simple fix. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 6:53 pm) I would appreciate some info on my problem if possible. I have an '01 Camry. All power windows and door locks work fine except the driver's side window. It will go down all the way but will get die out on the way 50% of the time. It will go up half way then you have to wait 5 to 10 mins to then go up the rest. If you don't wait and keep pulling on the switch it will barely move. The problem happens more often when you use the AUTO down feature or when you are using the window switch 2 to 3 times in a row. There are times that it will go up without a problem. What seems to work for me is that when I put the window up, I will go up 1/3 wait a min, and then 2/3 and wait a min, then all the way up. Any direction for where to start will be greatly appreciated. |
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Replying to: jamathi (May 01, 2009 3:45 pm) But, you should also check to make sure there aren't any pieces of the window subassembly binding or loose, making it too hard for the motor to move it. You have to take the inside of the door off to get in there. |
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Replying to: jamathi (May 01, 2009 3:45 pm) Once the resistor "overheats" it will take awhile for it to cool down enough to have full power to the motor again. Try a silicon spray lub on the visible window guides/runners and if that doesn't help you may have to remove the door panel and lub the interior workings.
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Replying to: wwest (May 01, 2009 5:52 pm) Thanks for the advice. |
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Replying to: jamathi (May 01, 2009 3:45 pm) Hope this helps |
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My Maintenance manual has the relay mentioned on the BE-8 " Location of Switches and Relays" but there is no picture of the relay, only it's name, no arrow. It is listed in the Fuse Block #1 group in parenthesis. I have exposed the Fuse Block under the Driver's side kick panel but cannot identify the INTEGRATION RELAY. It is not labeled on BE-11 either ("Fuse and Relay Blocks"). I need to change this relay but can't find it and don't know what it looks like. Can someone help please? Thanks in advance- -Dave
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Replying to: capndavy (May 07, 2009 3:08 pm)
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