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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
858 messages, Last post on Oct 14, 2009 at 7:40 PM
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 4:44 pm) Since the Door locks are working, then the 25A Door fuse and 10A Gauge fuse are undoubtedly okay. At this point, i would suspect the integration relay is bad. But verify that your door courtesy switches (Front Left door, front right door) are working.
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 4:22 pm) One more thing. Although I tested all the fuses before I went back to double checkthe three specific ones you mentioned. I clearly found 2 of them and they tested OK. The only one I am a little unsure of is the 30 A power fuse you spoke of. I only found one 30 A fuse in the whole car, in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment. It wasn't clearly labelled but it tested OK. However, my schematic (from a chiltons manual for this car) represents this device with a unique symbol. Could this be a circuit breaker? If so where is it located? If not is the 30 A fuse you referred to in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment? Thanks again for all the free advice.
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 5:28 pm) |
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 5:31 pm) If you look at the small fuses, the right most column has a 7.5 A Turn, a 7.5A Rad#2, and a 15A Cig small fuse. Continuing down in that same vertical column, is a 40A Defroster fuse, the 30A power fuse, and then the 40A AM1 fuse. Check that big middle 30A fuse.   Free....who said anything about being free?
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 5:39 pm) I would be happy to send you a gift certificate for dinner somewhere. You were a great help. More importantly I am in great need of a competent honest mechanic. You seem to be both. I see you are from raleigh and I happen to live here too. I would very much like to know where you work so I can frequent your place of business. I am a former electricians helper, biomed tech and now a Electrical Engineer with a PE license. Although as you know, all that can't replace practical experience. If you need a reference let me know. Email me at alphawolff  hotmail.com Thanks again
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 6:01 pm) Appreciate the offer for certficate, but take your better half/significant_other/kids out to dinner instead. Glad you found it, and it worked out to be a simple fix. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 6:53 pm) I would appreciate some info on my problem if possible. I have an '01 Camry. All power windows and door locks work fine except the driver's side window. It will go down all the way but will get die out on the way 50% of the time. It will go up half way then you have to wait 5 to 10 mins to then go up the rest. If you don't wait and keep pulling on the switch it will barely move. The problem happens more often when you use the AUTO down feature or when you are using the window switch 2 to 3 times in a row. There are times that it will go up without a problem. What seems to work for me is that when I put the window up, I will go up 1/3 wait a min, and then 2/3 and wait a min, then all the way up. Any direction for where to start will be greatly appreciated. |
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Replying to: jamathi (May 01, 2009 3:45 pm) But, you should also check to make sure there aren't any pieces of the window subassembly binding or loose, making it too hard for the motor to move it. You have to take the inside of the door off to get in there. |
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Replying to: jamathi (May 01, 2009 3:45 pm) Once the resistor "overheats" it will take awhile for it to cool down enough to have full power to the motor again. Try a silicon spray lub on the visible window guides/runners and if that doesn't help you may have to remove the door panel and lub the interior workings.
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Replying to: wwest (May 01, 2009 5:52 pm) Thanks for the advice. |
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