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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
871 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:28 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 22, 2009 6:59 pm) By the way, the door locks are working
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 3:22 pm) Great, you are going to test it. Let me give you the info. The pins are arranged in a T configuration, T rotated 90 degrees counter-clockwise from how it normally prints, which is how you took it out of the socket. Pin 1 is the + of the primary coil, which turns on the relay. Pin 2 is the Grnd of the primary coil. Pin 5 and 3 are the secondary points. Pin 5 is connected to the output of the 30A fuse, and Pin 3 is connected to the window switches. 1 ## 5 ## 3 2 In case you don't know, when relay is engergized, there should be zero resistance from 5 to 3. When relay un-energized, should be infinite resistance 5 to 3. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 4:22 pm) Thanks again. The relay bench tested OK. There was zero resistance when the coil was energized. Additionally, since all 3 relays were the same, I rotated them all. Windows still don't work. As I said before the electric door locks are working, so any device that is common to both systems can be ruled out. I measured the voltage on the connector to the Master window switch. There is no voltage on pins 10 or 11 on the connector which, from my interpretation of the electrical schematics provides power to the Master window door switch for the windows (the ignition was on). Any further help you can give me would be appreciated. Bob
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 4:44 pm) Since the Door locks are working, then the 25A Door fuse and 10A Gauge fuse are undoubtedly okay. At this point, i would suspect the integration relay is bad. But verify that your door courtesy switches (Front Left door, front right door) are working.
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 4:22 pm) One more thing. Although I tested all the fuses before I went back to double checkthe three specific ones you mentioned. I clearly found 2 of them and they tested OK. The only one I am a little unsure of is the 30 A power fuse you spoke of. I only found one 30 A fuse in the whole car, in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment. It wasn't clearly labelled but it tested OK. However, my schematic (from a chiltons manual for this car) represents this device with a unique symbol. Could this be a circuit breaker? If so where is it located? If not is the 30 A fuse you referred to in the drivers side fuse box in the engine compartment? Thanks again for all the free advice.
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 5:28 pm) |
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 5:31 pm) If you look at the small fuses, the right most column has a 7.5 A Turn, a 7.5A Rad#2, and a 15A Cig small fuse. Continuing down in that same vertical column, is a 40A Defroster fuse, the 30A power fuse, and then the 40A AM1 fuse. Check that big middle 30A fuse.   Free....who said anything about being free?
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 5:39 pm) I would be happy to send you a gift certificate for dinner somewhere. You were a great help. More importantly I am in great need of a competent honest mechanic. You seem to be both. I see you are from raleigh and I happen to live here too. I would very much like to know where you work so I can frequent your place of business. I am a former electricians helper, biomed tech and now a Electrical Engineer with a PE license. Although as you know, all that can't replace practical experience. If you need a reference let me know. Email me at alphawolff  hotmail.com Thanks again
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 23, 2009 6:01 pm) Appreciate the offer for certficate, but take your better half/significant_other/kids out to dinner instead. Glad you found it, and it worked out to be a simple fix. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Apr 23, 2009 6:53 pm) I would appreciate some info on my problem if possible. I have an '01 Camry. All power windows and door locks work fine except the driver's side window. It will go down all the way but will get die out on the way 50% of the time. It will go up half way then you have to wait 5 to 10 mins to then go up the rest. If you don't wait and keep pulling on the switch it will barely move. The problem happens more often when you use the AUTO down feature or when you are using the window switch 2 to 3 times in a row. There are times that it will go up without a problem. What seems to work for me is that when I put the window up, I will go up 1/3 wait a min, and then 2/3 and wait a min, then all the way up. Any direction for where to start will be greatly appreciated. |
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