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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
872 messages, Last post on Dec 05, 2009 at 1:27 PM
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Replying to: neena (Apr 17, 2009 6:55 pm) If you get it started, you can try driving it to an autoparts store and they can run a battery check on it. If that is the original battery now 5 years old, you are overdue for a battery anyhow. |
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I have a '96 Camry 4 dr LE Sedan. The passenger side front window stopped working one day while the window was down. I took the door panel apart to push the window up, bought a new motor and replaced it. It didn't work, so the motor wasn't the problem. About 3 months later the driver side front window stopped working as well. About 2 months later, the drivers side master panel would no longer control the rear windows. 8 months later, the rear windows stopped working. Now, about 3 weeks after that happened, I had a mechanic take the car apart to diagnose it. He took the master panel apart from the wires to test them and they all seemed functional; however, when he plugged the wires back into the panel, nothing would work. The door locks stopped working & the rear windows do not function at all. The mechanic suggested that I get new switches because the wires all seemed to be getting a charge. Should I also get a new relay as well? How do you know the difference between switch or relay failure? Does it seem like either of these issues is legit?
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Replying to: shiranc (Apr 19, 2009 4:17 pm) IF your mechanic knows what he is doing in his prior analysis, it appears that the wiring harness would probably be some wires that are failing in the wiring harness. This would most likely be in the joint between the body and the door, the wires that flex when you open and close the door. I come to this conclusion based upon the following points that I get from your original post: - You indicated that you initially had the passenger window stop working. You didn't say that all of the windows stopped working, so I assume at that point that only that one window had stopped working. Therefore, you must have had power to the master switch. If you had power to work the other windows, then I would conclude that the power supply circuitry (couple fuses, couple relays) are probably okay. - For reference, the power is supplied to the master switch, and the master switch works the drivers window motor, as well as then connecting the other 3 switches to the remote switches (similar to a double throw switch in a house where two switches can control the same light). - The obvious thing to check, is the master switch. If the mechanic checked out all of the switches with a meter, and verified that both the master switch and the remote switches are okay, then the problem has to be either the wiring from the master switch to the other door switches, or the motors themselves. It would be highly unlikely that you would have a number of failing motors, possible, but un-probable. Therefore the problem suspect area is the wiring. I have had wires in one vehicle I used to own which was 25 years old, and over many years of flexing had started to give intermittent failures. - So IF you believe the mechanic knows how to check out the master switch and the switch is fine, THEN the next thing for him to do is to start metering out the wires in the door jamb to find the failing wires. This is a labor intensive job, requires wiggling the wires and metering to find the failing wires. Then cutting wires, installing new wires, and soldering/insulating the joints. On the other hand, if that mechanic didn't know what he was doing, then I'd suggest finding someone to re-do that testing of the master switch, and also to verify with a voltmeter that the power supply circuitry is working as supposed to. Items to check are: - 10A Gauge Fuse (which gets its' power from the ignition switch and the 40A AM1 fuse. If the wipers have power, then the gauge fuse should have power to it's 'input' side of the gauge fuse) - 30A Power Fuse - Power Main Relay - Door Lock Control Relay It should be noted, that the 30A power, and the power main relay, also provide power to the door lock circuitry. Here's what the switch wiring looks like: Gen 3 Window Switch |
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I have a 96 Camry LE 4 door, power windows and door locks. Yesterday I was driving had my window down parked put the window up went into the store, came out started it up tried to put the window down, nothing... None of the windows work nor do the power locks.. I checked fuses and could not find a bad one. There are not any fuses listed power windows/locks.. Anyone have any ideas???? HELP... |
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Replying to: elmco2 (Apr 22, 2009 6:43 am) Like the last post it could be intermittent The easiest thing is to pull the breaker and reinstall.My window didn't work once, and after a hour it went up. Later the motor failed. I also had new passengers in the back seat and the windows were being put up and down and maybe they could have overheated the motor. To do a quick check of the motor get a pair of small jumper wires connected to the motor wires, and then to a battery sitting on the ground at the door. I've done this with a helper, four connectors two hands, and the motor worked intermittently. The helper refused to touch the jumpers real tight to the battery, so the connection was bad. Finally, I held the wires on the battery post myself to get the motor working. People think they will get shocked touching car electric but you cant. Touch both terminals on the battery with you left and right hands .. see no shock. Reverse wires at the battery to get the motor/ window to go in a different direction.The circuit breaker could be under the kick panel drivers side.
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None of the electric Windows Work. I checked all fuses and they seem ok. I checked the lock out switch and it seems to be working. I believe it is the Power Window Relay but I cant find it. It does not appear to be at the fuse box and I checked the drivers side kick panel, its not there either. Does anyone know where the power window relay is on a 98 Camry. Please be specific. Thanks
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Replying to: alphawolff (Apr 22, 2009 6:20 pm) On the frontside, are some connectors and some relays. Get down on your back under the dash. The integration relay is on the bottom, and then there are three relays right above the integration relay. The power relay, is the one on the left. Power feeds for the window control circuitry are: -25A door -10A Gauge -30A Power and the integration relay is involved, turning on the power relay, which then allows the 30A fuse to supply it's power to the door switchs.
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Replying to: elmco2 (Apr 22, 2009 6:43 am) - 30A Power - 10A Gauge |
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Replying to: rearwheeldrive (Apr 22, 2009 2:42 pm) Sorry, but a person can get shocked, not seriously, but SHOCKED just the same, using your procedure. Not by the battery voltage but by the "kick-back" from the motor inductance as/when you open the circuit.
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Replying to: wwest (Apr 23, 2009 7:50 am) |
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