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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
858 messages, Last post on Oct 14, 2009 at 7:40 PM
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Replying to: kiawah (Mar 28, 2009 6:13 pm)
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Replying to: aroland77 (Apr 02, 2009 9:45 am) That fuse feeds both the integration relay and the theft computer, so I would suspect one or the other is bad. The integration relay is on the other side of the fuse block (ie. the 'front' side, towards the front of the car). The theft computer is way up under the dash, on the passenger side. Not sure what guidance I could give you. I think if this was my vehicle, I'd verify that the door lock switches were working correctly via an ohmmeter, and also that the door lock motors worked correctly by applying voltage to them to lock and unlock. If the fuse blows immediately, I guess one approach would be to unplug both the integration relay and the theft computer. Plug a new fuse in, and verify that the fuse doesn't blow. Turn the power off. Then plug the integration relay in, leaving the theft computer out. Put a fuse in, and verify that the fuse doesn't blow (or it does). Assume it didn't blow. Turn the power off, take out the integration relay, and put in the theft computer. Put the fuse back in and turn the power on. If the fuse blows, you would highly suspect the theft computer is bad. |
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Hello, I am having a problem with my keyless entry and clock on my 2005 Camry. I have changed the batteries on both keyless entry units and nothing has worked. Everytime i turn my car on. The clock is at 1:00 and the temp. shows in Farenheit. Any help would be great thanks
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Replying to: vikwani (Apr 14, 2009 1:57 pm) - 10A ECU-B - 10A Gauge1 - 5 A ECU-ACC - 7.5A Dome - 10A Panel - 15A Ignition The following fuses effect the wireless door locks - 7.5A Dome - 25A Door1 - 10A ECU-B See anything(s) in common, that you might want to check? |
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Replying to: frankthelast (Mar 22, 2009 4:12 pm) Late for this post but I did manage to bypass the integration relay for the head and tail lights and drove aroound a while manually turning the swithch on and off everytime.Yesterday I managed to get an integration relay and snapped it in.And everything started working just like it was.Thanks a lot for your help this site helped me a lot.According to me I saved about $600 in this exercise !!! Thanks again
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Replying to: sid007 (Apr 16, 2009 7:24 am) |
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As I was starting my car this morning I was adjusting my power seat at the exact same time. As I turned the key, the car "clicked" and would not start. The stereo works fine, the power door locks which worked before I turned the key no longer work. I called the dealer and they said it was probably the battery but I'm not so sure. Any thoughts?
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Replying to: neena (Apr 17, 2009 6:55 pm) If you get it started, you can try driving it to an autoparts store and they can run a battery check on it. If that is the original battery now 5 years old, you are overdue for a battery anyhow. |
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I have a '96 Camry 4 dr LE Sedan. The passenger side front window stopped working one day while the window was down. I took the door panel apart to push the window up, bought a new motor and replaced it. It didn't work, so the motor wasn't the problem. About 3 months later the driver side front window stopped working as well. About 2 months later, the drivers side master panel would no longer control the rear windows. 8 months later, the rear windows stopped working. Now, about 3 weeks after that happened, I had a mechanic take the car apart to diagnose it. He took the master panel apart from the wires to test them and they all seemed functional; however, when he plugged the wires back into the panel, nothing would work. The door locks stopped working & the rear windows do not function at all. The mechanic suggested that I get new switches because the wires all seemed to be getting a charge. Should I also get a new relay as well? How do you know the difference between switch or relay failure? Does it seem like either of these issues is legit?
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Replying to: shiranc (Apr 19, 2009 4:17 pm) IF your mechanic knows what he is doing in his prior analysis, it appears that the wiring harness would probably be some wires that are failing in the wiring harness. This would most likely be in the joint between the body and the door, the wires that flex when you open and close the door. I come to this conclusion based upon the following points that I get from your original post: - You indicated that you initially had the passenger window stop working. You didn't say that all of the windows stopped working, so I assume at that point that only that one window had stopped working. Therefore, you must have had power to the master switch. If you had power to work the other windows, then I would conclude that the power supply circuitry (couple fuses, couple relays) are probably okay. - For reference, the power is supplied to the master switch, and the master switch works the drivers window motor, as well as then connecting the other 3 switches to the remote switches (similar to a double throw switch in a house where two switches can control the same light). - The obvious thing to check, is the master switch. If the mechanic checked out all of the switches with a meter, and verified that both the master switch and the remote switches are okay, then the problem has to be either the wiring from the master switch to the other door switches, or the motors themselves. It would be highly unlikely that you would have a number of failing motors, possible, but un-probable. Therefore the problem suspect area is the wiring. I have had wires in one vehicle I used to own which was 25 years old, and over many years of flexing had started to give intermittent failures. - So IF you believe the mechanic knows how to check out the master switch and the switch is fine, THEN the next thing for him to do is to start metering out the wires in the door jamb to find the failing wires. This is a labor intensive job, requires wiggling the wires and metering to find the failing wires. Then cutting wires, installing new wires, and soldering/insulating the joints. On the other hand, if that mechanic didn't know what he was doing, then I'd suggest finding someone to re-do that testing of the master switch, and also to verify with a voltmeter that the power supply circuitry is working as supposed to. Items to check are: - 10A Gauge Fuse (which gets its' power from the ignition switch and the 40A AM1 fuse. If the wipers have power, then the gauge fuse should have power to it's 'input' side of the gauge fuse) - 30A Power Fuse - Power Main Relay - Door Lock Control Relay It should be noted, that the 30A power, and the power main relay, also provide power to the door lock circuitry. Here's what the switch wiring looks like: Gen 3 Window Switch |
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