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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
871 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:28 PM
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 13, 2009 4:59 pm)
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 17, 2009 6:23 am) Re: primary resistance. That looks good. You want to have some resistance (of the wire wrapped around the coil). If it is open or infinite resistance, you won't get any current flow to energize the coil. If it is zero resistance, then the wire on the coil is burnt thru and is shorting itself out, again you won't get the necessary current flow to energize the coil. Re; integration relay. I am not aware of a way to easily bench test the integration relay. It's not really a 'relay' as your other relays are, it's an integrated circuit with transistors. I'd have to reverse engineer the circuit, and then you'd have to recreate all of the different inputs, which could take a ton of time. It's got a number of different inputs, and a number of different outputs. Re; testing the terminals of the taillight fuse holder. You are correct, if you do not have voltage on that fuse holder feed, then the 'secondary' of the taillight relay is not closed. Just as before, either the taillight primary is energized and the secondary points are bad.....or....the taillight primary coil isn't getting turned on. What turns on the taillight relay?.....the integration relay. On the taillight relay, pin 1 is the primary +, pin 2 is the primary - which is connected to ground by the integration relay, pin 5 is the secondary point connected upstream to the battery power, and pin 3 is the secondary point connected to the 7.5A fuse feeding the downstream circuit/lights. Re: the door switch. That is a good symptom, it is telling you that the door switch itself is working, which is one of the inputs to the integration relay. |
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| How do you get the black fuse block off, have removed the bolts but cannot fiqure out the protective plastic off. | |
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So assuming that the integration relay is bad but the Tail light relay is ok. If I short the green(from the combination switch) with the green/red that leads to the coil of the tail light the tail lights should start working when the engine is running right ? Same with the head lights(red/yellow with the red black) Doing this as a temporary fix (until I get hold of a integration relay) do I risk damaging my car in any way ? Thanks a lot for leading me thsi far !!
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 17, 2009 9:36 am) Unfortunately, the power source for the headlight and taillight relays are powered all of the time. This is what allows the integration relay to keep your headlights on when you leave the vehicle, and then it turns them off a bit later. So your work around, will keep those two relays continuously energized, and those down stream circuits then continuously energized .....with your headlights ON You'd have to be plugging and unplugging the wire to the headlight primary. A non-authorized and supported modification (which is something I might consider on a 12 year old vehicle depending upon whatever the price of an integration relay..........), would be to consider to wire my own power to those circuits. Radio shack has generic 12 volt relays, with mounting sockets. You could wire up a new relay, which primary was turned ON by the key ON circuit. Then with the secondary points, use that to complete the circuit and turn on the headlight and relay primaries. Those two relays provide their normal power to their circuits. You turn the key off, your new relay turns off, drops the power to the headlight/taillight relay, and everything turns off. Or, a manual approach would be to buy a simple generic auto switch at say Pepboys, mount it under the dash, and use that switch to manually turn on the headlight/taillight relay. I quickly mention both of those as work arounds, but have NOT checked out all of the circuitry involved with the integration relay to worry about what else wouldn't be working correctly, nor have I thought through the ramifications of those two circuits being on all the time the engine is running, or off when you forget to turn the switch on. I think I'd check a junk yard, to see if they have and would sell an integration relay. |
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| Bought a 90 wagon 2.0 L and found the power outlet (cigarette lighter) does not deliver power. 15 amp fuse under driver side kick panel is intact. Is there a relay behind the unit? And how can I get to it without pulling the dash off? She's a good red wagon and deserves TLC. | |
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Replying to: frankthelast (Mar 22, 2009 4:12 pm) |
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Replying to: frankthelast (Mar 22, 2009 4:12 pm) The 15A Cig fuse, feeds the cig lighter and is one of the power feeds to the clock. There is no relay involved. I would suggest either replacing that fuse, or getting an ohm meter to verify that the fuse really isn't blown inside. You should have zero resistance when measuring the fuse. That cig fuse slot, gets it's power 'upstream' from one of the circuits in the key switch. The key needs to be in the on or accessory position for power to go to the lighter. If your fuse meters okay with an ohmmeter, then switch the meter to voltage and verify that the fuse slot has 13volts on one of the pins. Measure from the fuse slot with the red+ lead, and the black- lead connected to a metal piece of the car frame. |
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I just bought a used 1999 camry and the door lock buttons on both driver and passenger side do not work. The window lock and window buttons work on all doors just not the door locks. I also did not get a keyless entry remote nor the manual so i'm not sure how to trouble shoot this problem. Is there a second hidden fuse box in the car somewhere that i cant find? I checked my fuses and everything looks good but i cant figure out the door lock problem. We have to lock/unlock all four door by hand and that becomes a pain when you are outside of the car and want to open the backseat doors, you have to reach all the way around and back from the front doors. Any help or advice would be great.
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Replying to: aroland77 (Mar 23, 2009 1:17 pm) In the Instrument Panel Junction box (inside the car), by the drivers left knee behind the ash tray area, check: - 25A Door fuse - 10 A Gauge fuse - 10 A Tail fuse - 30 A Power fuse. This 30 A fuse is a much bigger fuse, down in the lower right quadrant, like at about 5 oclock in the fuse box by looking at it. In the engine compartment, on the left fenderwall area, check: - 7.5A Dome fuse
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