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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
871 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:28 PM
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The tail lights are not workking.Where are the 10A Gauge, and 7.5A Dome fuses and the tail light relay located ? What is the driver side door courtsey switch ? Is it the switch with which you lock all the doors ? If that is so when I press that switch there is some kind of relay chattering going on.
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 13, 2009 2:49 am) The 7.5A Dome switch, is in the fuse box in the engine compartment, in the lower left quadrant. The 15A Cig fuse, fuse box left knee, right column The 10A Tail fuse, fuse box left knee, 2nd column from the left The taillight relay, is on the 'front side' of that fuse box by your left knee. It is right above the integration relay. There is a series of 3 relays above the integration relay. They go from left to right, power/defogger/taillight. Pull the taillight relay, and check to see that it is working. The pin configuration is a litle different. Pin 1 is the +voltage for the primary, Pin 2 is the ground for the primary. Apply 13volts to those pins to energize the relay. Pin 5 to Pin 3 are the secondary points, that when the relay primary is energized, the resistance from 5-3 should be zero resistance. When the primary is NOT energized, the resistance should be infinite.
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Replying to: kiawah (Mar 13, 2009 5:06 am)
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 13, 2009 4:59 pm)
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 17, 2009 6:23 am) Re: primary resistance. That looks good. You want to have some resistance (of the wire wrapped around the coil). If it is open or infinite resistance, you won't get any current flow to energize the coil. If it is zero resistance, then the wire on the coil is burnt thru and is shorting itself out, again you won't get the necessary current flow to energize the coil. Re; integration relay. I am not aware of a way to easily bench test the integration relay. It's not really a 'relay' as your other relays are, it's an integrated circuit with transistors. I'd have to reverse engineer the circuit, and then you'd have to recreate all of the different inputs, which could take a ton of time. It's got a number of different inputs, and a number of different outputs. Re; testing the terminals of the taillight fuse holder. You are correct, if you do not have voltage on that fuse holder feed, then the 'secondary' of the taillight relay is not closed. Just as before, either the taillight primary is energized and the secondary points are bad.....or....the taillight primary coil isn't getting turned on. What turns on the taillight relay?.....the integration relay. On the taillight relay, pin 1 is the primary +, pin 2 is the primary - which is connected to ground by the integration relay, pin 5 is the secondary point connected upstream to the battery power, and pin 3 is the secondary point connected to the 7.5A fuse feeding the downstream circuit/lights. Re: the door switch. That is a good symptom, it is telling you that the door switch itself is working, which is one of the inputs to the integration relay. |
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| How do you get the black fuse block off, have removed the bolts but cannot fiqure out the protective plastic off. | |
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So assuming that the integration relay is bad but the Tail light relay is ok. If I short the green(from the combination switch) with the green/red that leads to the coil of the tail light the tail lights should start working when the engine is running right ? Same with the head lights(red/yellow with the red black) Doing this as a temporary fix (until I get hold of a integration relay) do I risk damaging my car in any way ? Thanks a lot for leading me thsi far !!
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 17, 2009 9:36 am) Unfortunately, the power source for the headlight and taillight relays are powered all of the time. This is what allows the integration relay to keep your headlights on when you leave the vehicle, and then it turns them off a bit later. So your work around, will keep those two relays continuously energized, and those down stream circuits then continuously energized .....with your headlights ON You'd have to be plugging and unplugging the wire to the headlight primary. A non-authorized and supported modification (which is something I might consider on a 12 year old vehicle depending upon whatever the price of an integration relay..........), would be to consider to wire my own power to those circuits. Radio shack has generic 12 volt relays, with mounting sockets. You could wire up a new relay, which primary was turned ON by the key ON circuit. Then with the secondary points, use that to complete the circuit and turn on the headlight and relay primaries. Those two relays provide their normal power to their circuits. You turn the key off, your new relay turns off, drops the power to the headlight/taillight relay, and everything turns off. Or, a manual approach would be to buy a simple generic auto switch at say Pepboys, mount it under the dash, and use that switch to manually turn on the headlight/taillight relay. I quickly mention both of those as work arounds, but have NOT checked out all of the circuitry involved with the integration relay to worry about what else wouldn't be working correctly, nor have I thought through the ramifications of those two circuits being on all the time the engine is running, or off when you forget to turn the switch on. I think I'd check a junk yard, to see if they have and would sell an integration relay. |
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| Bought a 90 wagon 2.0 L and found the power outlet (cigarette lighter) does not deliver power. 15 amp fuse under driver side kick panel is intact. Is there a relay behind the unit? And how can I get to it without pulling the dash off? She's a good red wagon and deserves TLC. | |
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Replying to: frankthelast (Mar 22, 2009 4:12 pm) |
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