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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
869 messages, Last post on Nov 20, 2009 at 5:46 PM
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My power windows,seat,door locks and sunroof stopped working on my 1993 Toyota Camry. All fuses in the car and under the hood are OK. What could be the problem?
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Replying to: dhopkins1 (Mar 06, 2009 5:38 pm) 10A gauge fuse, 30A Power fuse, and the Power Main Relay. All three of those are inside the car on the left instrument panel junction box. The fuses are on the front side of the junction box. The 10 gauge is on the left side, and the 30 A Power is on the right edge at the top. The Power Main Relay is on the back side of that junction box, and is in the lower left corner. |
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Replying to: tlsullie (Jan 24, 2009 7:14 am) |
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The power locks and windows on 96 Camry XLE quit working at same time. As far as I can tell everything else(dome light, moon roof, personal lights, pwr seats, pwr mirrors, etc) works. I checked fuses in engine comp and next to steering column, and can't find any blown. I have read that there is a breaker/relay for the dors and windows, but I can't find it. I don't know what it looks like or where it is. Does anyone have really good description of the location, or a picture? Remote locks work ok from a after market that has been on for about 10 years. Thanks in advance for any help.
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Suddenly the Head and tail lights of the 1997 Camry stopped working. The dashboard lights are also out. However the power windows are working fine.I checked all the fuses and they are fine.I removed the panel under the knee(driver side) and noticed that when I turn the ignition key on and off there is a chattering noise which I am sure is some kind of a relay.The indicators/brake lights are working fine
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 09, 2009 4:22 pm) All of these are in the terminal block up in the engine compartment, on the left wheel well. The headlight fuses are just marked with a 1 and a 2, and sit sort of in line with the headlight relay. The 40A main fuse, sits underneath the starter relay. If you have a meter and know how to test relays, pin 4 & 3 are the primary winding coil. Pin 1&2 are the normally open secondary points w/infinite resistance. When power is supplied to the primary 4, 3 to ground......the secondary 1 to 2 should be zero ohms. You may want to also check that your battery is sitting at 13+ volts, and no corrosion on the terminals. You shouldn't have any relays chattering. One cause of chattering is that the voltage is too low on the coils, and it's not able to pull the secondary down and hold it in place. Does your vehicle start and run okay? This headlight problem you have may be a symptom of a larger problem effecting other things as well. You can get your battery and alternator tested at auto parts chains, they can do a load test on both the battery and alternator for you, usually free.
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Replying to: justlost (Mar 09, 2009 4:11 pm) I hesitate to try to answer, since who knows how and where they connected the aftermarket door locks. But, if you assume they wired it similarly to where the factory install hooked up, and the door lock relays work the same, then here is where I would suggest checking. For your year, the items you need to focus on are on the junction block by your left knee, and there are 3 things. A 10A gauge fuse, a 30Amp Power fuse, and the Power Main Relay. That junction block has items on both sides of it (front and back), so you'll also have to crawl under the dash. On the rear side, are the gauge fuse (which is in the slot 2nd column over, in the first row). the 30 Amp Power fuse is all the way to the right edge of that board, kind of in line with the row of small fuses. On the front side of that junction block, is the Power main relay. There are 3 relays on the junction block, and the power one is the one on the left edge looking underneath and up at it, actually on the passenger side edge. Good luck.
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Replying to: kiawah (Mar 09, 2009 7:00 pm)
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Replying to: sid007 (Mar 10, 2009 4:43 am) The 'primary' of a relay, is like the butler. It is the thing that opens or shuts the door. It is made up of a metal rod, with wire wrapped around it. When you apply power to that wire, it creates a magnetic field, drawing down a metal frame, and closing the secondary points. If you apply power, there is a magnetic field and the points close. If you release power, a spring returns the metal frame to the open position. To test the primary, you apply voltage to it and see if it clicks. Apply 13 volts to pin 4, and ground pin 3, and the relay should energize and click. This is the same as telling the butler to open or close the door. You can also change your meter to measure resistance, disconnect the relay from the voltage, and put the meter across 3 and 4. It should have some small resistance (it's a wire), it should not be infinite (open). Now let's move to the secondary points, which is the 'door', and we have to check whether the butler actually opened or shut the door. Pins 1 and 2 are the output of the relay. When the relay is in it's normal (un-energized state), pin 1 and 2 are not connected together. Therefore, if you put your meter to measure resistance, and connect it to pin1 and pin2, your meter should read infinite resistance. Now turn on the relay, by putting 13 volts across pins 4+ and 3-ground. When the relay is energized, when you measure the resistance across pins 1 and 2 it should now show zero resistance. The voltage across the primary flows thru the wire, it energizes the coil creating a magnetic field, which draws down the frame of the secondary, and the secondary points on pins 1 and 2 now touch each other, which turn on whatever is connected to that circuit If you leave the meter on the secondary points 1 and 2, and alternate disconnect/connect the power to the primary, you should hear the coil click and unclick, and you should see your meter alternate between showing an open(infinite resistance) and a short (zero resistance). How a relay typically fails..... 1.) What fails in relays on the primary side, is that the coil overheats and the wire burns, thereby creating an open wire. With an open wire, it can't create the magnetic field, and it never energizes. If it never energizes, it never connects the secondary points together. The device would always remain off, and never turn on. The butler is not there or not listening to you, he doesn't open the door. 2.) The secondary points, as they open and close over time, can electrically arc (spark) and burn or get metal pitting. This can result in either an always open condition, or an always closed condition. - They could effectively weld together, creating a 'short' all of the time. In this case it doesn't matter whether the primary coil is energized or not, the secondary is always connected. - They could effectively not make a good connection, creating an 'open' all of the time. Again, it doesn't matter whether the primary coil is energized or not, the secondary never connects. 3.) It's rare, but you can also get a mechanical failure of the relay, where perhaps the return spring breaks and falls off, and therefore the secondary points never make a good connection. So in your symptoms, you are not getting power. If the 40A fuse was blown, that could cause the problem. If the relay was defective (either the primary wire burnt, or the secondary points always open), that could also cause the problem. Pull the fuse and check the resistance of the 40A fuse, and if okay, measure the voltage of the fuse socket, one of the pins should have 13 volts on it.
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Replying to: kiawah (Mar 10, 2009 5:44 am) I checked the relay and it is good. The 40 A fuse is also working. I tried to be smart and shorted terminal 3 & 4 on the fuse panel using a loose wire. I lights came on. Then I also shorted 1 and 3 and the lights are on again. This means there is voltage at point 1. But there is 0 V between points 1 and 2. Is this because point 2 has shorted and is at (13 V) and since there is no potential difference between 1 and 2 there is no current flowing through the coil ? This is what I mean. I tried hard to get the picture right for you bt this is the best I could come up with,Is there an effective method where I can pinpoint a short circuit ? The lamp is connected between 4 and ground. 1 2 3 4
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