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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions
871 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:28 PM
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Replying to: deano12 (Jul 03, 2006 6:54 am)  )
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Replying to: deano12 (Jul 03, 2006 6:54 am) |
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Replying to: deano12 (Jul 03, 2006 6:54 am) |
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Replying to: deano12 (Jul 03, 2006 6:54 am) Doubt thats your problem but its worth a shot to see if the electrical connection is secure at the compressor. |
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Hi, I'm new to this forum and website. And I'm not going to start off well, because I have a problem!! I have a 1996 Toyota Camry station wagon, and yesterday when I got in the car, the clock, the radio, and the overhead dome light didn't work. I wouldn't have cared as much if I wasn't driving 4 hours home from Maine, but I figured it was a fuse, and I'd just change it at home. I got the new fuse for it, but as soon as I put the new fuse in, that fuse blew too. So the guy at the autoparts store said that I probably had an electrical shortage that had something to do with THAT fuse in the fusebox. I know I can't really get off complaining because those are the only three things in the car that I don't really need, but I'd still like to fix this. Any ideas as to whether or not I can do this myself and how? Or, how much do you think it would cost in the shop? Has this happened to anyone? Also, when we opened up the fusebox in the engine compartment, the dome/clock/radio were all using a 25 mini fuse, when it relaly called for a 20 mini fuse. Could that be related?
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Replying to: scitsailor (Jul 20, 2006 12:48 pm) dome lights are notorious for short circuits...but...since a "short" circuit means that a wire is grounding "short of" the destination, you'd have to trace the wire all the way from the fuse box to the dome light. You might start by looking at the switch in the door that works the dome light...remove that switch and tape it up so that the wires can't touch anything. Let the switch dangle in outer space and put in a new fuse. If that doesn't work, drop the dome light out of the headliner and do the same thing. Make sure no wires are touching and just let the dome light dangle up there---if either of those cures the problem you know the short was either at the door switch or the dome light area. The radio rarely causes such a hard short like this unless it was one of those home-grown installations done with tape and wires twisted together. You might look under there and see if you see a lot of homemade wiring. Factory wiring is neat and tidy. As for the clock, that might be hard to pop out of the dash to check. Last area would be BEHIND the fuse box, where you'd have to unscrew the entire fuse box and inspect behind it, in the area of the fuse that is blowing. Always exercise caution when fooling with wiring. I always like to have someone nearby who has loosed the positive battery cable so that it's just a slip fit on the battery. If something starts to smoke, you yell and they yank.
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 20, 2006 1:15 pm) Unless Toyota is different from everyone else selling cars in North America, that's wrong. Whenever disconnecting an automobile battery in most production cars over the last 50 years, always pull the negative (-) battery cable from its terminal first. Pulling the positive (+) cable first is apt to spark, with the potential to set off a hydrogen gas explosion at the battery and send pieces and hot sulfuric acid flying in all directions. (The acid and battery shrapnel aren't at all conducive to continued eyeball function, but they can sure be a dandy motive for learning Braille... )
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 20, 2006 1:15 pm) |
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 20, 2006 1:15 pm) you mean electrical "short" or short-circuit. i agree with most of what shifty wrote. except me personally, i would have the negative leg of the battery loose and the one to be disconnected by a bystander. think about replacing a battery: the very first terminal to pull is the negative. why? two-fold 1). If you are using a metal tool without insulated grips on the positive terminal first (i.e. with the negative strap still attached), you are creating a closed circuit with your body if another part of your body is in touch with the metal body of the vehicle. it's not voltage necessarily that can defib the heart, but current, and chances are the path you've created passes in close proximity to the heart. if the current draw is just right, i think you can have an interesting experience. 2). if you have a battery which is de-gassing, shorting the positive with the negative (say the tool slips and touches part of the frame) will cause a nice short almost directly, but in close proximity to the battery. there's likely to be sparking, and where there's spark and degassing... possibility of explosion. (2) is one of the reasons why when you jump a car, you connect positive battery terminals first, and then one leg of the negative jumper cable to the good battery, and the other end of the negative jumper cable (i think i have this correct) to some exposed piece of metal on the car your trying to jump far enough away from the battery that any sparking will be unlikely to cause a problem if there is degassing. now some may say, but wait when I'm replacing an old battery with a new one, and i install the positive first, then the negative, if i'm physically in contact with the negative at the time i am also touching the body of the car, won't there be current flow? i think the answer to this is yes and no. yes there will be current flow, but more current will flow through the path of least resistance, that being the terminal of the battery and cable clamp, and not through the vehicle body, your body, to the cable clamp. shifty - did i get this one correct? one edmunds tee-shirt extra large pleese. ok, just exercise caution with the battery. |
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Replying to: user777 (Jul 20, 2006 2:27 pm)
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