Last post on Aug 03, 2013 at 3:10 PM
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Toyota Camry, Electrical, Sedan
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#1059 of 1159 Fuse 10 A burns on Toyota Camry 1996
Mar 03, 2011 (10:19 am)
Hi everyone! I had this camry (it is a great car, runs like a gazelle!) since jan 2000, and have never had any problem 'till now. It started a couple of weeks ago, after I washed my car at the carwash station. 10 A fuse was blowing out everytime i start my car. this fuse controls window power on driver side, dashboard lights, windshields and maybe something else I forgot to mention. Fuse blows everytime I try to move my car from parking position to neutral or reverse. What could be a problem? it is obvious to me that my cat has shorting in electrical wires.. but where could it be? My car passed emission and inspection test day before it happened. Where to look at?
#1060 of 1159 Fuse 10 A burns on Toyota Camry 1996
Mar 03, 2011 (10:20 am)
Hi everyone! I had this camry (it is a great car, runs like a gazelle!) since jan 2000, and have never had any problem 'till now. It started a couple of weeks ago, after I washed my car at the carwash station. 10A fuse was blowing out everytime i start my car. this fuse controls window power on driver side, dashboard lights, windshields and maybe something else I forgot to mention. Fuse blows everytime I try to move my car from parking position to neutral or reverse. What could be a problem? it is obvious to me that my cat has shorting in electrical wires.. but where could it be? My car passed emission and inspection test day before it happened. Where to look at?
#1061 of 1159 Re: Fuse 10 A burns on Toyota Camry 1996 [nika2011]
Mar 03, 2011 (2:38 pm)
I don't have time right now to pull out the schematics to investigate further, but off the top of my head, I would say you either have a bad electrical switch on your transmission, or some wiring in the trunk hinge (specifically the wiring feeding power to the reverse/backup lights) is shorting.
Crawl in the trunk on your back, be careful not to get locked in, and while on your back look up at the wiring on the trunk lid hinge, on the driver side. You are looking for whether the insulation has worn thru and the wire is touching metal, when the trunk lid opens/closes. "If' this wiring on the reverse circuit was shorting out, when you took it out of park and moved it thru reverse, the transmission switch would power the reverse lights, instantly shorting out the fuse.
If no wiring problem, then I'd suspect the transmission switch, and you can check that with a meter.
#1062 of 1159 Re: DASHBOARD AND TAIL LIGHTS STOPPED WORKING (95 Toyota Camry LE) [kiawah]
Mar 18, 2011 (9:19 am)
IM having the same problem with my 92 camry were you able to fix your problem?
#1063 of 1159 Issue with Power Door, Window, Sunroof
Mar 22, 2011 (8:26 pm)
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry LE 4 cyl, 4 door, close to 214,000 miles and runs great.
Couple of weeks go, all 'power' items stopped working. The power locks wont work, even for the driver side. Each door have to be locked and unlocked manually. The power windows do not work, luckily, the windows were closed when it all stopped working. The sunroof open/tilt/close do not work either.
I assume this is because a fuse for the power system went off and I cannot figure out where the controls are. I opened the fuse box on the left hand side of the driver above the hood release, and it doesn't look like none of them are for power door or locks. Where else is it controlled from ?? Thanks in advance for your response.
#1064 of 1159 Re: Issue with Power Door, Window, Sunroof [dallas_dude]
Mar 23, 2011 (5:44 am)
Common to all three of the windows, doorlocks, and moon roof.......are the 10A Gauge fuse (powers control circuitry), and the 30A Power fuse (powers the motors).
Both are in the fuse box by your left knee.
10A Gauge is a little fuse, which you would typically recognize as a fuse.
30A Power is up in the right hand corner, just beneath a cable connector.
Let me know which you find blown, and if the replacement fixes your problem.
#1065 of 1159 Headlights/Highbeams do not work
Mar 25, 2011 (4:41 pm)
Hello, new here. I recently purchased a 1994 toyota camry. The headlights and high beams do not work, all other lights work,running and tail. I know the bulbs are good from bypassing the relay and they work. i have replaced the headlight relay and the complete switch on the steering column. the fuses are good and I believe everything else works as far as I can tell, I haven't noticed anything else not working. I have looked at a wiring diagram and see the integration relay in the system. Would that be the problem, if I had changed everything else. And also the high beam indicator doesn't even come on when lights are switched. Thanks for your help.
#1066 of 1159 Re: Headlights/Highbeams do not work [kribbie]
by MrShift@Edmunds HOST
Mar 25, 2011 (5:21 pm)
Soooo....you said you bypassed the relay and then the headlights worked, but replacing the relay did nothing? This doesn't seem possible, unless you bypassed the relay by taking voltage from some other hot wire than the one that comes from the headlight switch----if the headlight switch sends power to one side of the relay, and then you hop over the relay and the lights work, then it has to be the relay.
But if you took power from some other source than the circuit from the headlight switch, then it's possible that it's not the relay but rather that the relay is not being activated by the headlight switch.
Which means, (phew) that you have something open between the headlight switch and the relay, or that the headlight switch is not getting any current itself.
How 'bout fusible links? Check any of those?
#1067 of 1159 Re: Headlights/Highbeams do not work [Mr_Shiftright]
Mar 26, 2011 (2:34 pm)
I dont see any fusible links in the wire diagram I have. Do you have any idea where they are located? I have the 2 hot wires at the relay butdo not have anything from the switch. like I said I have replaced the switch and the relay and now the integration relay. I do not know what the problem could be now. I am getting frustrated with it.
#1068 of 1159 Re: Headlights/Highbeams do not work [kribbie]
Mar 27, 2011 (9:54 am)
Take out the headlight relay, and note where the relay socket numbered pins fit within the socket itself.
- Pin 4 is the +Power, coming from the 40A main fuse
- Pin 2 is also +Power, coming from the 40A main fuse
- Pin 3 is the ground connection which goes to both the integration relay, and the headlight switch.
- Pin 1 is the wire that runs out to the headlight fuses, and then to the headlights themselves.
So, a couple checks to figure out what is happening.
1.) With a digital voltmeter, verify that you have a +13ish volts on both pin 4 and pin 2, with the black voltmeter lead on engine ground. This will verify that you're getting the main power to the relay. If correct, move on.
2.) With a wire, in the socket, jumper pin 2 to pin 4. This will provide a constant ON voltage to feed down to the low beam headlight fuses, and then to the low beam headlights themselves. Verify that they are working. If correct, move on.
3.) With the above jumper in place still, now flash the high beam switch, the high beams should also come on. Now also turn on the high beam switch, and verify that the high beams are on. If all correct, you would have verified that all the fuses are good, all the bulbs are good, and that 'dimmer' piece of the headlight switch is good. Then your problem is either in the relay itself, the integration relay, or the 'light control' piece of the headlight switch .
4.) Remove the above jumper wire. You can test the headlight relay, by 'carefully' attaching jumper wires from the socket to the relay...using only wires to pins 1,2, and 4. On pin 3 "of the relay" (careful, not the socket), connect a wire from pin 3 of the relay and ground it to engine ground. Take care to make sure the ground wire on pin 3, does not come in contact with any of the other pins 1,2, or 4 (or you'll either blow the 40A main fuse, or the the relay secondary points). You should hear/feel the relay primary energize, and the headlights should come on. These headlights are high current draw, so make sure your connections are sound, wire strong enough. If correct, the relay is good.
Let me know what the results are of above, because it gets more complicated if we have to go further.