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Toyota Camry Fuse and Electrical Questions

580 messages,  Last post on Jun 29, 2009 at 3:42 PM

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#571 of 580 Re: 2001 camry blowing guage, window fuse [jillier] by kiawah May 16, 2009 (7:04 pm)
Replying to: jillier (May 15, 2009 3:06 pm) Okay, here's the scoop.   As mentioned, the 10A Gauge fuse handles the 'gauge' which is the combination meter....but it also feeds a lot of control circuitry in a number of other devices, so for example, there are devices which take two fuses to work. The 10 gauge fuse feeding the control circuitry, and then another fuse actually feeding the device.   But first let me give you everything that is downstream of the 10 gauge fuse in your model.   - The ABS (anti-lock braking system) - Backup light - Charging - Combination Meter - Cruise control - Door lock - Electronically controlled transmission and A/T indicator - Engine control (the main engine computer) - Headlight (w/daytime running light) - Key reminder and seat belt warning - Light auto turn off - Moon Roof - Power Window - Stop Light - Tail Light   Because this fuse controls so much, it is one of the harder problems to isolate the problem cause. I'd suggest an approach to isolate as follows: - Stop using moon roof, power windows, cruise control, and door locks. If the fuse blows without using any of those, then lower probability that those are the source of your problem. - Look closely and tail lights, stop lights, reverse light bulbs. Make sure all of the filaments look good and the correct filament is working on dual filament bulbs. You may even just go ahead and replace the bulbs since they're cheap, and your vehicle is 9 years old. Check for wire rubbing in the trunk, as mentioned previously. - If you still haven't isolated the problem, get a volt/ohm meter, and meter out the brake switch, the neutral switch, and reverse switch. Work the switch on and off and look for erratic meter movement. - Take your vehicle out to someplace safe, and put it into a panic stop to verify that the ABS system is working correctly. - Still haven't found it, give up and take it to a dealer. The rest will be too hard to work on yourself. Replies to this message: jillier (May 17, 2009 4:50 pm) kiawah (May 17, 2009 5:09 pm)
#572 of 580 Re: 2001 camry blowing guage, window fuse [kiawah] by jillier May 17, 2009 (4:50 pm)
Replying to: kiawah (May 16, 2009 7:04 pm) I took the advice from your original email and checked the wiring in the trunk. I found 2 wires broken, and three others that had bare spots. I also replaced the fuse and tried the power windows (not them), and then shifted into reverse, which immediately blew the fuse. After repairing the wires, all is well! I appreciate your expertise...as you probably saved me several hundred dollars at the dealer.   Best regards, John Replies to this message: kiawah (May 17, 2009 5:09 pm)
#573 of 580 Re: 2001 camry blowing guage, window fuse [jillier] by kiawah May 17, 2009 (5:09 pm)
Replying to: jillier (May 17, 2009 4:50 pm) Excellent....good fix
#574 of 580 Re: 96 Toyota Camry power locks and windows [kiawah] by justlost May 17, 2009 (5:18 pm)
Replying to: kiawah (Mar 09, 2009 8:40 pm) Thanks Kiawah. It finally got worm enough and quit raining long enough to check this further. Turns out power windows don't work anywhere, but door lock/unlock works on passenger side, so I figured pretty much eliminated power relay and fuses. Checked the wires to left door and found the white/black wire broken and blue half way broken. After figuring out how to get panel off of door, repaired the broken wires and taped everything up. Had a lot with cracked insulation. Regarding the door panel, slide a small blade above and below the inside door handle/lock lever to release the cup that is behind them. Then you can get the panel off. Thanks again for your help. Wife was complaining now that the weather is getting warm, with no windows working.
#575 of 580 click sound in my 99 camry by holly99 Jun 08, 2009 (10:42 pm)
I heard a clock ticking sound from the fuse box two days ago. It was from the moroon color square 12V relay, which is labeled as "HEAD" on the lid of fuse box. I did not do anything with the sound during past two days and this morning I was not able to start my car--no sound at all. It happened three months ago in the winter that I had tough time to start the car---I had to keep turning the key for several times.   What is the problem? Is my battery died? or the battery was drawn by some kind of leakage? Replies to this message: kiawah (Jun 09, 2009 5:20 am) holly99 (Jun 09, 2009 10:55 pm)
#576 of 580 Re: click sound in my 99 camry [holly99] by kiawah Jun 09, 2009 (5:20 am)
Replying to: holly99 (Jun 08, 2009 10:42 pm) I'd suggest starting with a basic electrical check of your battery and alternator, as well as verifying that the battery terminals are tight and free of corrosion.   Many auto parts chains (Pep Boys, AutoZone, etc) will do a complimentary check of your battery and alternator under load. You need to make sure you are starting with a good battery voltage of at least 13v.   Will the vehicle start with a 'jump', so you can drive it to get the battery/alt checked? Replies to this message: holly99 (Jun 09, 2009 10:55 pm)
#577 of 580 Re: click sound in my 99 camry [kiawah] by holly99 Jun 09, 2009 (10:55 pm)
Replying to: kiawah (Jun 09, 2009 5:20 am) Thank you very much for your reply. I took the battery to Autozone and it could not be recharged. Got a new battery tonight and car ran right away.
#578 of 580 Re: 1994 Camry won't start [lizardking] by drrjr74 Jun 28, 2009 (8:19 pm)
Replying to: lizardking (Jul 05, 2007 6:19 am) my 93 camry same thing. could throttle position sensor make it not run...
#579 of 580 Faulty Integration Relay? by iconoclast187 Jun 29, 2009 (5:26 am)
Hello Initially my '98 Camry LE 4cyl would not start. I had it jumped but it would immediately die when the jumper cables were removed, at which point I assumed the alternator was bad. I pulled the alternator and battery and had the alternator tested which proved to be fine. I replaced the battery and the terminal connectors anyway since it was somewhat corroded and looked like it needed replacing. Now the engine starts fine, however most of the internal electronics are not working. I checked all the fuses and replaced the one that was blown, I believe when I accidently touched the wrong terminal during the jump in my haste to get to the office. At this point the headlights, tail-lights, break-lights, power windows, power locks, transmission shifter, radio, clock and climate control all do not work. However the Interior dome light, trunk light, ignition cylinder light, open door light and open door warning bell all do work, which I believe run directly off the dome fuse and circuit without the integration relay.   All of the above has led me to believe that I have a bad integration relay. Do you agree? The only strange thing is that my windshield wipers and washer also don't work with the engine running, which I didn't think needed the integration relay.   Also, I went under the dash and disconnected the large and small wire harness connections to the integration relay and unlatched the bottom hook. The integration relay is now moving freely except whatever it is connected/latched to at the top right of the box which I can not see from my vantage point. Is the relay actually plugged in to the fuse-box similar to a normal relay or is there just another latch on the top similar to the one on the bottom? Do i need to move it towards the front of the car or towards the roof of the car to unhook it? I don't want to break something and be unable to replace it.   Sorry for the long post, Thanks for your insight. Replies to this message: kiawah (Jun 29, 2009 3:42 pm)
#580 of 580 Re: Faulty Integration Relay? [iconoclast187] by kiawah Jun 29, 2009 (3:42 pm)
Replying to: iconoclast187 (Jun 29, 2009 5:26 am) I actually think you might have blown the 100A Alt fuselink.   Check your horn and hazard lights, they should work.   Pull the 40A AM1 fuse, and check the voltage on the pin that is feeding that fuse. AM1 is in the fuse panel by your left knee. Underneath the smaller cigar fuse, there are three large fuses in a vertical column. The 40A Def fuse is under the cigar fuse, then under the Def fuse is the 30A Power fuse, then underneath that is the 40A AM1 fuse.   With the AM1 fuse pulled, you should have power on the right pin socket (pin 1 - fuse input), and won't have power on the left pin socket (pin 2 - fuse output). If you do NOT have power on pin 1, then your 100A Alt fuse is bad up in the engine compartment fuselink box. If you DO have power on pin 1, then check the continuity of the AM1 fuse.   Just for reference purposes, the wiper not working is an important clue. The power to that is fed from one wiperleg of the ignition switch, specifically the AM1 leg. That ignition switch input to the wiper leg is powered by the AM1 fuse. The AM1 fuse gets it's power from the 100A Alt fuse. So wiper not working has nothing to do with the integration relay. You've got a more basic power problem.   Assuming your problem is the 100A Alt fuse, be sure to disconnect the battery when replacing...it's hot all the time. After replacing, be sure to go have your alternator checked, most autoparts stores will do that for you. You need to verify that you didn't fry your alternator by jumping incorrectly. With luck, hopefully you've blown just the 100A fuse and not your alternator as well.   Let me know how it goes. Goodluck.

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