Last post on Jan 16, 2013 at 8:23 PM
You are in the Toyota Camry
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Toyota Camry, Engine, Sedan
#307 of 317 Re: "Ping-like" sound in 2005 Camry [bharaldson]
Oct 01, 2011 (5:55 pm)
This is a typical noise in Toyotas when they are warming up, and sometimes continues afterwards. It is called "piston slap" and is caused by the piston rocking excessively in the cylinder as it moves up and down. On older motors, this used to be considered as a sign of excessive wear; caused by piston to cylinder wall clearance which was too loose. However; it is now appearing on brand new or nearly new Toyotas which are very precisely machined and do not have piston clearance problems. The reason this is happening is that a few years ago, the U.S. Congress passed a law requiring all new vehicle dealerships to only use oil classified as "energy conserving" in every car they service. The use of energy conserving oil improves fuel economy by a fraction of one mile per gallon. The downside of this oil is that; because it is chemically thinned out to reduce internal engine friction; it has less cushioning and lubricating effect than regular oil. And that leads to piston slap, increased oil consumption, and increased engine wear. Who in their right mind would want to make such a destructive change to new vehicles? I'll leave the speculation up to you.
Those people who feel compelled to always have their oil changed at a dealership are permanently stuck in this rut; but those who change their own oil, or who have it changed by an independent shop can specify that a non energy conserving oil be used. Energy conserving oils will be labeled as such on the bottle. In general; most so called "high mileage" oils are not energy conserving, and are commonly available in popular viscosities. 10W-40 and 20W-50 oils are also not usually energy conserving. But the best non-energy conserving oil for all around protection is the full synthetic European Formula oil. This oil is usually available in 0W-40 or 5W-40. It is produced by Mobil 1 and Amsoil; along with many other companies. I have repeatedly found that Mobil 1 in 0W-40 grade will dramatically reduce piston slap, improve power and smoothness, and reduce oil consumption.
#308 of 317 Re: Keep or sell 95 V6 Camry w/ 200K Miles [smm57]
Oct 01, 2011 (6:45 pm)
The life expectancy of a vehicle is more dependent in many respects on the type of maintenance and use it has had than on the odometer reading. A car which has had regular oil changes at recommended intervals (especially if it has always used the same brand and grade of oil) will often be in better condition and have a greater life expectancy than a similar car with half as many miles on it; but which has received poor maintenance or been abused. Because of this; vehicles which have had multiple owners will typically not be in as good condition as a vehicle which has only had one or two owners.
The Camry V-6 of that era will easily run up to 250,000 or 300,000 miles if maintained well. But perhaps half of the cars on the road have not been maintained well. This is why it is essential to have ANY used car that you consider thoroughly inspected by an honest, experienced professional mechanic before putting one cent down on it. In addition; the automatic transmission is the one item which probably will not last that long. If you are one of the rare people who has a manual transmission; you will be immune to this built in limitation. Otherwise; be prepared to spend half the value of a car of this age to replace the automatic transmission when it fails.
Timing belts, along with fuel filters and spark plugs, are not intended to last the life of the car. They must be replaced at recommended intervals; in order for the car to be as reliable and to last as long as it was designed to last. The recommended replacement interval for the timing belt was originally 60,000 miles on the Camry; but was increased to 90,000 miles at some point (I don't recall whether that was before or after the model year of your car). If you buy a used car; you will need to find out when the timing belt was last replaced (if ever) and plan to replace it on schedule in the future; in order to avoid a breakdown. This can be an expensive repair on a Camry V-6. Because of the cost of the labor on this job; it is advisable to replace the water pump while the motor is apart; as there will be no additional labor charge to do so at that time.
Craig's list is not a place where I would expect to find cars which were well cared for; but there are always some exceptions. The used car market is a minefield of vehicles which were reconstructed from wrecks, bought at auctions after being stolen and abused or stripped, or have carefully concealed damage. This is one of the many reasons why you cannot buy a vehicle based on its appearance; but must have it inspected by a mechanic. This is as true for sales by dealers as it is by private parties. If a car has a cheap asking price; there usually is a good reason for it. And you may not discover what that reason is until it is too late.
If you have owned your car since it was new or young, and have cared for it well; there is a major advantage in keeping this car rather than risking buying someone else's problems. In 40 years of consulting on used cars, I have found that a really worthwhile car is only found about 10% of the time.
#309 of 317 Re: 2002 Camry Still Smoking on start up [camryowner02]
Oct 30, 2011 (9:40 am)
hi. i recently bought a 2005 camry xle it has right under 100k. miles. well almost a 2 months of having it i have noticed it poors white smoke in the mornings...i am concerned...did you have anyluck?
Mar 15, 2012 (4:06 pm)
I own a 2009 camry le with 88,000 miles on it. Two days ago I began hearing a pecking noise under the hood. I took it to a dealership today and was advised I need to replace the water pump and the drive belt tensioner assy. The total for the repairs is just under $800. They also advised me my front brakes were half worn. When I pointed out to them that they had just replaced my brakes less than 16,000 miles ago, they immediately began back tracking, despite the print out they gave me which showed both the front and rear brakes with equal wear at 50%. They went on to say it was just a quick estimate, but the print out is very clear with a chart and graph showing computer estimates of wear with a recommendation for new brakes soon. Of course, they quickly told me I did not need to worry about this. They also told me both air filters need replaced, which my husband just replaced 6,000 miles ago. I am now suspicious of their recommendations for repair. Has anyone else had to have these parts replaced in an 09 camry with 88,000 miles? The dealership assured me these parts were failing in most all camry's made in 2009. I live in a very rural area and had to drive 90 minutes to get to this toyota dealership. The next closest one is a little over two hours away. A second opinion from an authorized toyota repair shop is not easy to get. Thanks.
#311 of 317 Re: water pump problems [09camryowner]
Jul 16, 2012 (3:11 pm)
Prior to purchasing my 2012 Camry, I had an 09 Camry. I, too, had a problem with my water pump. Luckily, it was discovered during a visit to my Toyota Dealer for regular maintenance ( 30,000). I was told that there was a problem with water pumps for the 09's. They replaced the water pump at their expense. Didn't cost me a dime. I would suggest that you get with corporate hq and see if they can refund your money. Being as the problem exists with most 09's, seems to me that you should not have to pay to get it replaced.
#312 of 317 1993 camry, 4 cyl., car won't run after starting
Jul 23, 2012 (8:43 am)
93 camry, 4 cyl, the car starts but when put in gear and tried to move, the AM2 30 amp fuse blew. Replaced fuse. Same thing. Then the problem became "car would turn over, but not start". This happened once before, but changing the AM2 fuse corrected the problem. About 2 weeks later, the above happened. I hate electrical problems. Any help appreciated.
#313 of 317 1993 Toyota camry "dies" while driving
Jul 24, 2012 (1:49 pm)
This is tied to my post# 312, which basically said 1993 camry would turn over but not start. When it finally started, putting it in reverse blew the AM2 30amp fuse. Now, after my mechanic replaced the injector relay, the car started and ran, even in reverse, then forward all of about 3 miles. Then it just "died" while driving. Driving down the road and car just quit. After dying, It turns over, but won't start. My mechanic towed it back and now waiting again. What are the chances it is the ECU? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
#314 of 317 1996 Camry LE, loud,pulsating noise in right rear
Jul 26, 2012 (4:52 am)
At speeds over 40mph (and not below 40), when I apply brakes I hear a noise in the right rear like "thunk-thunk-thunk-thunk" (repetitive). The sound is like a shock absorber sounds when it is defective and you hit a pot hole, but repetitive. As the car slows down, the "thunk" goes away. I should add, I hear a single "thunk" in the right rear when I hit a pot hole or speed bump. More axact, the sound is like hitting the frame of the car with a large rubber hammer.
#316 of 317 Enigine will turn over and start but won't run
Oct 04, 2012 (1:50 pm)
I own a 1996 Toyota Camry LE and I've loved the thing, as until recently it's been very low maintenance. First it started hesitating when I went to accelerate, and then it started stalling out when I came to a stop quickly or when I tried to pull away from the light. After dying it would often require starting fluid to get going again.
Initially I ran some Carb/Choke Cleaner through the throttle body and a bottle of fuel inject cleaner through the gas with the next several fill-ups and that fixed the problem for several weeks, but then it started all over again.
This time things got worse a lot faster: whereas the first time went on for a week before I got a chance to work on it, the second time it all happened in a couple hours while running errands, and then it died on me (while in a sharp turn I'd quickly decelerated for) and wouldn't restart.
As far as I knew the fuel filter had never been replaced (I got the car from a little old lady who didn't need it any more 4 years ago) so I did that but it hasn't fixed the problem. I tried to start it about a dozen times but it only turn over except twice when I stuck my toe in at just the right spot: it rev-ed up to 3000rpm and then died when I tried to rev up more or back down.
I checked my spark plugs and they are a little dirty, with the soot being a little on the grayish side of things, but not bad (they're just over a year old).
I also pulled the back seat loose and checked to see that the fuel pump was running when I was turning the engine over. It seemed to be fine.
I recently had the the belts, the water pump, and all those seals replace (it had been hemorrhaging oil) by a reputable mechanic. I've not gotten the codes read as it's stuck in front of my apartment (where it was towed by AAA after it died).
Is it possible that though the fuel pump motor is running it's not actually pumping fuel? Is there some secondary filter I should check besides the main filter I already changed? Am I going to need to clean/replace my injectors? Some one at church mentioned the throttle positioning sensor does that sound right? Or does my dad's suggestion that the catalytic converter was clogged and causing back pressure make more sense?
Help please, I'm at a loss!