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Toyota Camry Battery Questions

57 messages,  Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 7:21 PM

You are in the Toyota Camry Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens

What is this discussion about? Toyota Camry, Sedan


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#36 of 57
2004 Camry V-6 Battery Corrosion Problems by scottrod
Jul 30, 2006 (8:35 pm)
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My mother-in-law has a 2004 Toyota Camry LE V-6 (loaded) with approximately 24,000 miles. The car has never been in an accident and has been serviced regularly according to the owner's manual. She lives in North Dallas, TX and purchased the extended powertrain warranty protection plan from Toyota.
 
Last Friday, the car would not start. She opened the hood and found that the battery had a softball sized amount of corrosion around the battery terminals. She tried to scrape the corrosion away and the battery cables fell apart. She had the vehicle towed to the Toyota dealer where she bought the car. They replaced the battery and battery cables under warranty. The service advisor had no explanations as to why this happened.
 
Does anyone know why this could have happened, if it's a common problem and how to prevent it?
 
My wife and I look really bad now. My mother-in-law was a die hard GM car owner (even with the large number of troubles they had) and never owned an import before. Because she is in her 60's, we wanted her to have the most reliable car she could afford. Everything we read said Toyota Camry's were A1. So, we recommended it. My wife and I were stunned when she called and asked us to take her to pick up her Camry after the car died. If possible, please help or offer any advice. Thanks and God bless.
#37 of 57
Re: 2004 Camry V-6 Battery Corrosion Problems [scottrod] by ray_h1
Jul 31, 2006 (9:35 am)
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Replying to: scottrod (Jul 30, 2006 8:35 pm)

What you described is not a Toyota problem. It's a general problem when conditions are right (wrong?). The crud was acidic sulfation - which is why the battery cable wiring was 3/4 non-conductive toast. Assuming the charging system is in good condition*, my best guess is too many short trips with A/C in Polar Ice Cap mode resulting in a chronic undercharge state - a condition no lead-acid battery can long survive. An undertightend battery cable (rare at the factory, but it can happen) can also contribute. If everything turns out OK, check for the presence of the chemically treated red and green felt washers beneath the batter cables. These help retard the generation of sulfate at the terminals. If absent, go to any autoparts store or auto section of a major retailer and pick up a set. Use the proper size metric open-end wrench to loosen and tighten the clamping nuts. Pliers are more apt to round off the nuts' corners and result in a loose connection upon re-installation. The red felt washer goes on the "+" terminal and the green one goes on the "-" terminal after removing the cables. ALWAYS remove the "-" cable first and ALWAYS replace that same "-" cable last to avoid generating a spark that could ignite a hydrogen gas/air pocket inside the battery.
 
*Take M.I.L.'s car to one of the larger autoparts retailers such as Kragen, Pep Boys, Autozone, Advance Auto, etc. and request an alternator load test to verify its performance. If one of the diodes has "blown" (which will still allow partial charging) this test will pick it up. This is done without removing the alternator and the stores don't charge for this diagnistic. If a fault is found, back to the dealership - the alternator should still be a warrantable item at this stage of the car's life. I'd like to think the dealership already performed this test, but I've learned through experience not to assume anything where dealership service department personnel are concerned. Most are competent, but some were promoted from trash can emptying/sweeping and shuttle van driver way too soon.
#38 of 57
Just to second ray h1's comments by 210delray
Jul 31, 2006 (9:53 am)
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He's right that it's a general problem, not specific to Toyota. My US-built Camrys have batteries made by Johnson Controls, one of the large battery suppliers in the US. (I believe Johnson now makes the Sears DieHard batteries.)
#39 of 57
Re: Just to second ray h1's comments [210delray] by ray_h1
Jul 31, 2006 (10:41 am)
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Replying to: 210delray (Jul 31, 2006 9:53 am)

Yep - and K-mart and WalMart batteries, too. Many autoparts store name batteries are also made by Johnson Controls.
#40 of 57
Re: 2004 Camry V-6 Battery Corrosion Problems [ray_h1] by tmp888
Jul 31, 2006 (3:02 pm)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Jul 31, 2006 9:35 am)

Have you look at the "strategic supplier list" of Japanese and US automaker lately? They are almost identical. Explore's Firestone (BridgeStone) tires are not made by Ford. Speed control on Ford Vehicles were made by Texas Instrument (questioned in the fire investigation). Bottom line, keep your finger crossed to buy cars these days. I don't see much different in quality if all automaker buy parts from the same suppliers.
#41 of 57
Re: 2004 Camry V-6 Battery Corrosion Problems [ray_h1] by tripp7
Jan 09, 2007 (10:06 am)
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Replying to: ray_h1 (Jul 31, 2006 9:35 am)

The product you are looking for is called NCP-2 made by the NOCO Company. You can get it at Walmart or interstate battery- it comes in both washers and a spray on can- use both and you will never have this problem again.
#42 of 57
why Japanese car is more popular now than usa cars? by leonchin
Jun 07, 2007 (11:06 pm)
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japanese cars have been popular in many countries
#43 of 57
Battery Replacement by dchen2003
Dec 06, 2007 (2:57 pm)
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I have a 03 camry (4 cyl), and the battery is still stock. Is it time to change the battery? Because I am planing to have a road trip. What kind of battery should I get? How to determine the quality of a battery, just based on CCM, or there are other factors to consider? Is there any one know the specification of camry oem battery?
 
Thank you for any suggestion
#44 of 57
2002 Camry new battery dies by william31
Jul 16, 2008 (6:54 pm)
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I replaced the battery in my 2002 Camry and it will start but will not stay running. Autozone said the computer needed to remember itself (whatever that means). They said to drive it around for 10 to 15 minutes and keep my foot on gas when stopping to keep the car idling/running. I ran it for 30 minutes and when I got home and put it in park and took my foot off the gas and it died. What's up?

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