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Toyota Camry Timing Belt/Chain Questions

183 messages,  Last post on Oct 22, 2009 at 7:09 PM

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#177 of 183 Reliable Proof of Interfernce vs Non-Interference Engine Style by johngettler Sep 24, 2009 (12:54 pm)
If you need a reliable source (not a mechanic or dealer) to tell you if your engine is interference vs non-interfernce, look here. This is the website for Gates Belts.   http://www.gates.com/part_locator/index.cfm?location_id=3598&go=Interference   1. If you have an interference engine, then when your timing belt breaks it *might/probably* will damage your engine.   2. If you have an non-interference engine, then when your timing belt breaks, the car will stop propelling forward and will roll to a stop. Your engine will not be damaged from the incident.   For example, look up a 4 cylinder 1996 Honda Accord (interference). See all the red text warning in the timing belt section of parts? Now look up a 4 cylinder Toyota Camry. Not red text means it is a non-interference engine.
#178 of 183 Installing fuel rail and intake manifold first before mounting the head by karl99 Oct 18, 2009 (2:45 am)
Currently I have my cylinder head off of my 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L. The hardest thing I found was taking off the intake manifold since space to loosing bolts is very limited. I have the head out to get fully re-conditioned. My main concern now is how to torque up the intake manifold bolts once the head is in place. I thought maybe I could install the fuel rail and intake manifold on the cylinder head first then tighten install the cylinder head. Looks like the intake manifold allows enough room to get a torque wrench under in order to torque the cylinder bolts as well as the intake and exhaust cam bolts to spec. The injector harness has enough room to go over the manifold once in place also. Air pipes and everything else would be bolted on after the head was installed. Let me know what you think and if tried this. Thanks Replies to this message: kiawah (Oct 18, 2009 5:32 am)
#179 of 183 Re: Installing fuel rail and intake manifold first before mounting the head [karl99] by kiawah Oct 18, 2009 (5:32 am)
Replying to: karl99 (Oct 18, 2009 2:45 am) 1. Install cylinder head 2. Install spark plug tubes 3. Assemble exhaust camshaft (ie gear spring, sub gear, wave washer, etc) 4. Install camshafts 5. Check and adjust valve clearance 6. Install Semi-circular plugs 7. Install PCV Valve and High tension cords clamp 8. Install cylinder head cover 9. Install Oil Pressure switch 10. Install Alternator bracket 11. Install Engine Hangers 12. Install #3 Timing belt cover 13. Temporarily install #1 idler pulley and tension spring 14. Install Camshaft timing pulley and timing belt 15. Install injectors and delivery pipe 16. Install intake manifold 17. Install VSV 18. Calif only: connect VSV connector 19. Connect knock sensor and VSV connectors 20. Install 2 engine wire ground straps to intake manifold 21/22. Install air tube, Calif/no-california 23. Connect vacuum hoses 24. Connect a/c idle-up valve connector for AC 25. Install EGR valve and vacuum modulator 26. Install throttle body 27. Install Water Bypass pipe 28. Install water outlet 29. Connect engine wire for O2 sensors to engine hanger 30. Connect oil pressure switch connector 31. Assemble exhaust manifold and warm up 3way cat converter 32. Install exhaust manifold and warm up 3 way assembly 33. Connect front exhaust pipe 34. Install distributor 35. Install Alternator 36. Install air cleaner cap, resonator and air cleaner hose 37. A/T: connect and adjust throttle cable 38. Connect and adjust accelerator cable 39. Fill w/engine coolant 40. Connect neg terminal cable to battery 41. Start engine and check for leaks 42. Adjust ignition timing 43. Perform road test 44. Recheck engine coolant level and oil level.
#180 of 183 Install intake manifold and fuel rail prior to to Cylinder Head by karl99 Oct 18, 2009 (5:18 pm)
Currently I have my cylinder head off of my 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L. The hardest thing I found was taking off the intake manifold since space to loosing bolts is very limited. I have the head out to get fully re-conditioned. My main concern now is how to torque up the intake manifold bolts once the head is in place. I thought maybe I could install the fuel rail and intake manifold on the cylinder head first then tighten install the cylinder head. Looks like the intake manifold allows enough room to get a torque wrench under in order to torque the cylinder bolts as well as the intake and exhaust cam bolts to spec. The injector harness has enough room to go over the manifold once in place also. Air pipes and everything else would be bolted on after the head was installed. Let me know what you think and if tried this. Thanks
#181 of 183 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L Camshaft Question - Exhaust Camshaft service bolt? by karl99 Oct 22, 2009 (6:30 pm)
Just finished up installing my cylinder head and intake manifold as well as fuel rail on my 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L. Installed the intake camshaft as well. I was ready to install the exhaust camshaft, but read online about the service bolt as well as in the manual, but the manual never stated why it was necessary. After further reading online it stated that the service bolt prevents the gears from unwinding and causing the cam to be out of time when removed. When I removed the camshafts I never placed a service bolt in the exhaust camshaft (should have now!). I never noticed the cam unwinding when I removed it from the cylinder head. I had the cylinder head and both cams to a machine shop for reconditioning. After carefully looking at the exhaust cam now I notice the do line up, but there is hole and something line a pin that are a off a bit out of alignment. Does the pin and hole have to line up? Looks like it would fit if the one gear was turned about 1/8 turn or so. Wondering if anyone here has and answer to this. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Replies to this message: kiawah (Oct 22, 2009 7:04 pm) kiawah (Oct 22, 2009 7:09 pm)
#182 of 183 Re: 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L Camshaft Question - Exhaust Camshaft service bolt? [karl99] by kiawah Oct 22, 2009 (7:04 pm)
Replying to: karl99 (Oct 22, 2009 6:30 pm) So you can see what was to happen on dis-assembly:   35. REMOVE CAMSHAFTS NOTICE: Since the thrust clearance of the camshaft is small, the camshaft must be kept level while it is being removed. If the camshaft is not kept level, the portion of the cylinder head receiving the shaft thrust may crack or be damaged, causing the camshaft to seize or break. To avoid this, the following steps should be carried out.   A. Remove exhaust camshaft (a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 10–45° BTDC of camshaft position. HINT: The above angle allows No.2 and No.4 cylinder cam lobes of the exhaust camshaft to push their valve lifters evenly.   (b) Secure the exhaust camshaft sub gear to drive gear with a service bolt. Recommended service bolt: Thread diameter6 mm Thread pitch 1.0 mm Bolt length 16–20 m m (0.63–0.79 in.) HINT: When removing the camshaft, make sure that the torsional spring force of the sub gear has been eliminated by the above operation. Replies to this message: kiawah (Oct 22, 2009 7:09 pm)
#183 of 183 Re: 1993 Toyota Camry 2.2L Camshaft Question - Exhaust Camshaft service bolt? [kiawah] by kiawah Oct 22, 2009 (7:09 pm)
Replying to: kiawah (Oct 22, 2009 7:04 pm) And on re-assembly:   B. Install exhaust camshaft (a) Set the knock pin of the intake camshaft at 10–45° BTDC of camshaft angle. HINT: The above angle allows the No.2 and No.4 cylinder cam lobes of the exhaust camshaft to push their valve lifters evenly.   (b) Apply MP grease to the thrust portion of the cam– shaft. (c) Engage the exhaust camshaft gear to the intake cam– shaft gear by matching the timing marks on each gear. (d) Roll down the exhaust camshaft onto the bearing journals while engaging gears with each other. NOTICE: There are also assembly reference marks on each gear as shown in the Illustration. Do not use these marks.   5. CHECK AND ADJUST VALVE CLEARANCE (See page EG1–12) Turn the camshaft and position the cam lobe upward, and check and adjust the valve clearance. Valve clearance (Cold): Intake 0.19 – 0.29 mm (0.007 – 0.011 In.) Exhaust 0.28 – 0.38 mm (0.011 – 0.015 In.) (e) Turn the intake camshaft clockwise or counterclockwise little by little until the exhaust camshaft sits in the bearing journals evenly without rocking the cam– shaft on the bearing journals. NOTICE: It is very important to replace the camshaft in the bearing journals evenly while tightening bearing caps in the subsequent steps. (f) Install the bearing caps in their proper locations. (g) Apply a light coat of engine oil on the threads and under the heads of the bearing cap bolts. (h) Install and uniformly tighten the 10 bearing cap bolts in several passes, in the sequence shown. Torque: 19 N–m (190 kgf–cm, 14 ft–lbf)   (i) Remove the service bolt (B).   5S–FE ENGINE – ENGINE MECHANICAL EG1–71

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