Last post on Sep 02, 2012 at 6:55 AM
You are in the Toyota Camry
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Camry, Toyota Camry Solara, Oil, Sedan
#659 of 678 Re: 2004 Camry Serpentain belt [jjoseph2]
Nov 11, 2010 (8:27 pm)
Without looking it up in the manual, the typical setup is there is a spring loaded belt tensioner, In order to unload the tension on the tensioner, you put a tool into it. I've had vehicles that you use a large pry bar screwdriver, a 3/8" or 1/2" shank socket pry bar, and I've had vehicles with a socket head (like a 5/8 or 3/4".
You connect the applicable tool to the tensioner, and with the power leverage put pressure in the direction which will unload the tension. The belt will begin to get loose, and with your 2nd hand take the belt off one of the pulleys so when you gently let the tensioner back is moves back easily. Don't let it snap back.
Take the old belt off, pay attention as to the routing of the belt around the different pulleys. Typically there is a graphic under the hood on all vehicles, which shows you how the belt is supposed to route.
It can be tight working the belt into the correct position. Depending upon how the belt is routed on any vehicle, you may have to unbolt an engine support bar. Other vehicles you also take out an access panel behind the front right wheel.
Work the new belt into the proper position to all but one of the pulleys, put tension back on the tensioner so you can get the belt into final position, and ease up on the tool again so that the tensioner is riding on the belt correctly. You also want to make sure the belt sits on all of the pulleys correctly. You don't want it to be off a groove, or your belt won't last long.
Depending on the vehicle manufacturer, model, make, year, and engine.....this can be a 10 minute job, or more than an hour.
It can be common to have a bad tensioner, either the pulley on the tensioner is bad, or the spring is bad. If this is the case, then while you have the belt off, you unbolt the whole tensioner assembly off the side of the engine and replace it with a new one, then put a new belt on as described above.
Just found a general ehow, watch this:
Actually, there are a whole series of these, dealing w/serpentine belt and pulleys.
#660 of 678 2007 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl, LE
Jan 29, 2011 (5:58 pm)
Ooopps! I just broke off the two inner hinges of my air filter housing due to the fact that I bought the wrong size (barely too large) filter. I put the old filter back in and secured the two bolts and ran the engine for a few minutes with some revving here and there and the engine sounded fine. Has anyone else broken the hinges and if so, have you had good luck with maintaining a consistent vacuum/seal just using the two bolts??
Feb 03, 2011 (8:51 am)
haven't seen anything on replacing fuel filter nor the pcv? have 05 v6 le 38k, and 04 highlander v6 48k has anyone had these done?
#662 of 678 Re: 2007 Toyota Camry 4 Cyl, LE [masterpt1]
Feb 03, 2011 (7:36 pm)
I wouldn't chance it; I recommend buying a replacement upper housing (the part with the hinges).
#663 of 678 Re: fuel filter [choochooman]
Feb 03, 2011 (7:37 pm)
Neither require regular service. From what I understand, the fuel filter is inside the fuel tank.
#664 of 678 Service needed
Feb 13, 2011 (1:51 pm)
2006 Camry xle 6cyl what is service recomended at this point .I like to prevent serious things from happening.When should I consider changing timing belt. I am sorry I have 40,000 on it now have done nothing but oil and filter
#665 of 678 Dogbone upper motor mount
Mar 13, 2011 (9:29 pm)
On my 2004 Camry 4-cyl LE there is a strut on the top passenger side that keeps the engine stable. It has many names including 'dogbone' (which it looks like) and 'torque motion control arm'. It has hard rubber bushings at each end, which get brittle over the years and disintegrate, as mine have done. Replacing this 90-buck part should task about ten minutes. Anybody have any difficulties with this operation? Like lining up the bolts once you've put the new dogbone in place? I hate to pay a mechanic for such a simple operation but will if any of you have run into trouble.
#666 of 678 Re: Dogbone upper motor mount [metalibrarian]
Mar 14, 2011 (1:13 am)
you didnt mention how many miles were on your car....I have a 2000 camry w/200k on it and never replaced the motor mounts...those are designed for the life of the car unless involved in an accident to which they break away from the motor to prevent occupant injury...if you have some sort of vibration...it may be a different issue. The part is inexpensive...but a pain if you don't have the equiptment to replace it
#667 of 678 Re: Dogbone upper motor mount [camryguy3]
Mar 14, 2011 (8:31 pm)
My 2004 Camry 4-cyl has just under 93k on it. The hard rubber bushing in the dogbone is definitely broken--you can see it from the side. Result: not a lot of vibration but a definite thud sometimes when the car is started. I had this issue on a 1986 Buick Century and changed this arm twice during my 14-yeqr ownership of that car. When you talk of special equipment you must be thinking of the lower engine mounts. Changing the dogbone is a very simple operation, involving a rachet wrench period (I hope). I'll do it tomorrow and tell you how it turns out. To change the lower mounts you need to raiser the engine a tad bit and I don't really want to get into that.
I still would like to hear from folks who have done this, especially if anyone ran into complications.
#668 of 678 2002 Camry XLE--funny story
Apr 15, 2011 (9:00 am)
I don't own the car but I do pay the bills. in fact I first saw the car when it was backed off the covered car transport from Indianapolis..It had 68k miles and was in great shape just like it's owner..Some 4 yrs later the mileage is at 83k, and I took it over to your Toy dealer to have the oil changed yesterday, special deal, and after 8 mos it probably needed it.
First of all, this is Venice, Fla, home of the "graying of America", and that makes us prime targets for the service dept..Oil change only, okay, don't field strip the car looking for problems. Been there before and here it comes..Reseal valve cover Gasket-$155, Replace drive belt $135, and Replace leaking water pump and coolant $480..My responce, Change the oil and quit fiddling with trying to bankrupt me..
Belt is okay, no leaking oil gasket and no water leak..all 3 cars in the garage leak nothing.. except a/c condensation..