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Sedans Toyota Camry Toyota Camry Basic Maintenance Questions
596 messages, Last post on Oct 05, 2009 at 3:02 PM
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Replying to: 210delray (Jan 09, 2005 7:18 pm)
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Replying to: hallage (Jan 09, 2005 8:40 pm) On my '97 Camry 4-cylinder that accumulated 111K miles before I sold it, I never replaced the fuel filter, charcoal canister, or PCV valve. I don't believe any of these need changing either unless there's a problem. Some say the fuel filter should be regularly replaced, but I understand it's tricky to do on the Camry. You have to know what you are getting into. My '90 Mercury Sable also didn't say anything about changing the fuel filter either, but I did change it (with assistance) shortly before I sold the car at 135K miles. |
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hi all, my 99 camry LE has reached 90k and i called a local shop for its 90k maintainance. They said that along with changing timing belt, they recommend to change the water tank and a few other things as preventative measures, since the mechanics will be touching that part of the car, i'll be saving some labor cost. Is this necessary at this time? The other problem that I have with my car is that the little spring-like plastic of the cap/doorx to the gas tank is broken. So now filling gas has become a pain -- either i have to have another person to help me, or i had to use a key or some thing to keep the levelling the lever so that i can open the cap/door. I asked the mechanics, they said it's at least $300 to repair it, because they have to take the whole thing out and replace it. Is there a cheaper alternative? c) I have been changing oil on this car between 5k-7.5k (mostly high way mileage), now that it has reached 90k, should i switch to 3k schedule? thanks.
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Replying to: zzz (Jan 17, 2005 12:36 am) However, if there are signs of leakage, the water pump should be replaced. Otherwise, it's a gamble: don't replace it now on the assumption it'll last another 90K miles, or replace it now so you won't have to spend a lot of additional labor hours replacing it later. I'd recommend changing the oil every 5000 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first. On your gas door, I'm unclear if the problem is the latch on the door itself, or the cable connecting the release lever on the floor with the latch. If it's the latter, the cost could be high due to the labor involved. If it's the gas door latch, maybe you could find a matching, intact gas door in a salvage yard? |
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Replying to: zzz (Jan 17, 2005 12:36 am) I have a suggestion that will probably cost you about 99 cents to implement. Go to a local hardware store and purchase these little 3/8" diameter round, black, self-adhesive rubber feet. These are usually used to apply to the bottom of items that you want to sit on top of a desk or table to protect it's surface. Buy the THICKEST or largest (they're usually about 1/4" thick) one's you can find. Look inside where the wall of the car is and try to find a place where if you had applied one, it would then require a TAD amount of pressure to close the door. Put it in that location with a piece of scotch tape and close the door. Then, open the door and see if it POPS open. Once you've found a good location, then peel off the adhesive coating on the back of it and mount it (semi) permanently with that. I would also suggest that you thoroughly clean that area before mounting so that the adherence would last. If you can't find a place that's flat/opposite the door, look somewhere near/on the hinge. |
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FYI... I do oil changes at the DEALERSHIP just about every 3,000 miles. I am actually surprised that they have a "special" so frequently, that it winds up usually costing only $19.99. I also call the mechanic in so that I throw in a $2 tip! I'm under lease and am slightly PARANOID about maintenance. I've ALWAYS believe strongly in (over) preventive maintenance. I also rotate my tires every other oil change. I just bought a Sears TORQUE WRENCH because from now on after I've taken the car back from them doing the rotation, I'm going to RE-TORQUE all the wheel lugs JUST TO MAKE SURE that it is done right. I hate to have to say this, but I believe the BEST way to maintain your car is to do it YOURSELF. Of course, the next-best thing would be to have a mechanic do it WHILE you are standing there. Where I lived before, for many years, that was the case. The mechanic would allow me to stand there WITH him while he did the work. So I was pretty much guaranteed that it was done right. He actually made a few mistakes during those years, but FORTUNATELY I was there to point them out to him at the time. |
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Any advice on what's involved in changing the spark plugs on a V-6 Solara? It appears that taking off the intake manifold would make things a lot easier when accessing the rear bank. Any thoughts?
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Replying to: tprjim (Feb 19, 2005 6:07 am) I would recommend you use the EXACT plug that the car came with. I have found that there are discrepancies at the different websites as to which is the right plug for my car. I went to the dealer to buy the plugs and he gave me a substitue. My picky brother-in-law told me to return them and suggested that I use the EXACT same plug as in the manual and/or pull one out of the car. As it turns out, my car (2003 Solara SLEV6) was made with TWO different engines in the same year. And so the plug would differ depending upon the engine. But not ONE of the websites nor the dealer would even ask that question. So I pulled a plug and sure enough it DID match what was in the owner's manual. The best price I found was at www.RockAuto.com. According to my owner's manual, the plugs are good for 60k. I'm at 48k now and intend to replace them as soon as I thaw out (New Joisy is cold). At the same time, I'm also going to replace my PCV valve and fuel filter. I'll also remove my air filter container and clean it thoroughly and replace the filter. I'll then change all 4 brake pads. ALL TOYOTA PARTS, I might add. In my experience, the Toyota parts are not really that much more expensive than aftermarket, and I am convinced that the parts are of better quality. And if you're doing it yourself, you're saving money anyway.
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Replying to: solaraman2003 (Mar 10, 2005 2:22 am) For long term reliability ad durability, use Toyota parts as much as you can, including coolant, oil and transmission fluid. Most after-market brake pads would squeak and squeal and are hard on the rotors. Toyota pads are engineered specifically for the car therefore would brake better, last longer and are quieter. The prices are very close.
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