Last post on Sep 02, 2012 at 5:55 AM
You are in the Toyota Camry
What is this discussion about?
Toyota Camry, Toyota Camry Solara, Oil, Sedan
Mar 07, 2007 (11:31 pm)
Have a 2004 Camry LE with I4. Wonderful car. Manual clearly states 5W30 oil should be used, as does oil filler cap on top of engine. Yet several local Toyota dealers use only 10W30. So also many independents. That way they don't have to keep multiple barrels in the shop. Called several dealers before I finally found two who use 5W30.
Is the difference so minor as to be insignificant? Will there be a difference in mpg? Can the slightly heavier oil actually be better for the engine in the hot southwest climate?
#286 of 678 Re: Differing oil weights [metalibrarian]
Mar 08, 2007 (3:51 am)
The oil is 30 weight when warm, so both of those oils are equivalent. The 5W would be thinner in the winter when the engine is cold. If you don't get any freezing temperatures and/or the car is garaged, I personally wouldn't think twice about using 10w over 5w.
Here in NC, the winters are mild and my vehicles are all garaged where even in my detached garage without the heat turned on it is no less than 50 degrees inside the garage in the winter, so I actually use 10w30 in one of my cars over the 5w30 that is called for. That's because another vehicle I have runs 10w30 so thats just one less type of oil I store.
The worst problem you'd have is harder starting (slower turning over) if it was cold.
#287 of 678 Re: Differing oil weights [metalibrarian]
Mar 08, 2007 (8:50 am)
If you live in the hot southwest, 10W-30 will do no harm over the long term, I would think, but personally I'd rather go with what the manufacturer recommends. After all, their engineers who designed the car know more than any dealer.
Mar 08, 2007 (9:08 am)
The glovebox owners manual may give more than one oil being acceptable. In my GM car (not a Toyota so this doesn't apply to yours) the manual says 5-30 if temperature will not go above 60 F. during the oil's life. If it's not going below zero then 10-30 is preferred. A default statement on the fill cap says 10-30 and it's in the manual. This implies the 30W in 5-30W is different than the 30W properties in 10-30W. That would match with my knowledge of oils.
Check the owner's manual for those multiple statements depending on temperature.
#289 of 678 Re: Owners manual [imidazol97]
Mar 08, 2007 (10:04 am)
Good point; in the case of my 2004-05 Camrys, I believe the manual states 5W-30 for all temperatures, but that 10W-30 is okay for higher temps, as long as the you switch back to 5W-30 at the next oil change.
#290 of 678 Re: Owners manual [210delray]
Mar 12, 2007 (8:20 am)
The owner's manual states to use 5W30 but one can use 10W30 for one time and then to go back and use 5W30. What are the ramifications in regards to warranty, etc. if the owner uses 10W30 all of the time?
#291 of 678 REAR BRAKE QUESTION FOR 02 CAMRY W/DRUMS
Mar 13, 2007 (12:08 pm)
My 2002 Camry with 53K miles has never had the rear brakes replaced yet! In fact the front ones were just done last fall. The front had rotors which my tire guy cut and put new pads on. The brakes have been silent and fine since even though the Toyota dealer wanted to replace the rotors irregardless of whether the could be cut or not.
Now the rear dillema. My tire guy will do a pad job on the rear brakes for about $100. I've been with guy for years and wouldn't have even questioned it except I was at the dealer with my wife's new RAV and asked the service tech how long my brakes might actually go. Anyway after chatting he said they get $250 to do the rear brakes but that includes changing cylinders...EVEN IF NOT LEAKING. He says they likely will leak if he does not change them. I thought this odd so I called another dealer. They said they did not change the cylinder if not leaking and have not seen that many that do leak over the years. Of course there brake job was about $219 w/out the cylinder swap out....very high.
Finally, I believe the cylinders, if leaking are covered under my 7/75 platinum warranty! The original Toyota dude said to check and make sure but even if covered I would still pay to have them replaced today as he could not replace them under warranty they were NOT leaking....but he still thinks its wise to replace them. I asked WHY? He said if they leak and drip on the pads I'd have to pay for the pad job again even though the cylinders would be covered.
This all sounds crazy but I want to be safe...if this even is a saftey issue. At the same time I spent more for the Toyota up front to get away from these expensive repairs...espicially when the part is not even broke!
WHAT SHOULD I DO?
#292 of 678 Re: REAR BRAKE QUESTION FOR 02 CAMRY W/DRUMS [andrelaplume]
Mar 13, 2007 (1:49 pm)
Most of the braking in todays cars is done by the front brakes, little by the rears. I've held cars for 10+ years and never had to replace the rears at all. You go by the amount of brake pad remaining, not by mileage or # of years. Since you just had the fronts done at 50K miles, it is probably unlikely that your rears would also be due.
Is your mechanic telling you that they need replacing because they are worn down? or are you telling them you want the rears replaced, for some reason?
Regarding replacing the cylinders....what happens with cylinders is that as the pad wears, the cylinder continually moves further and further out. If you don't change fluid periodically, you can get moisture and some crude that gets 'behind' the cylinder. This is not a problem as the cylinder continues to move outward, but when you do a brake pad replacement with now thicker pads...the cylinder has to be pressed back in. If there was crude in the bore, the cylinder now sticks a little. It presses outward when the brake is applied, but fails to float back when you take your foot off the brake. The result is that the pads then wear faster (and you tend to see a lot of black brake dust on the wheels). So to reduce labor and callbacks, it is very easy to replace the cylinders as a precaution while you have everything apart....they're cheap enough. This tends to happen more with front calipers, which go thru pads faster and have more heat to dissipate.
If it was my car, unless the back pads were worn down...I'd leave everything alone, and just flush the brake fluid.
#293 of 678 REAR DRUM BRAKES...**MORE**
Mar 14, 2007 (5:45 am)
I am not sure the rears are do, but last time they said they likely would need replacement by inspection time. Lets assume the pads are low. Do I just get the pad job or have the cylinders replaces too OR wait for the cylinders to leak at which point in time they are covered by my extended warranty?
If I get the pads replaced and the cylinders start to leak, say in a week or moth...does it ruin the pads?
#294 of 678 Re: REAR DRUM BRAKES...**MORE** [andrelaplume]
Mar 14, 2007 (5:59 am)
I doubt that you'll find the cylinders ever leaking, the normal failure would be where the cylinder starts to bind up inside the caliper housing. The normal failure is as I mentioned before. Some crude builds up in the brake fluid behind the cylinder. When pads are changed, the cylinder is pressed back into the caliper bore (to make room for the extra thickness brake pad) which the cylinder presses against. That crude binds up the cylinder, so that it doesn't move freely. When the brake pedal is pressed, the hydralic pressure is enough to move it out and apply the brakes, but the cylinder doesn't float back when foot taken off the pedal. As a result, the brake pad wears prematurely.
"If" a cylinder leaked brake fluid on the pads, you'd want to replace them.
You're over thinking this. These parts are all relatively inexpensive, if they ever fail, then replace them.
If this were me, "if" (and only if) the pads were worn down would I replace them. I would not replace the rear cylinders, unless I could feel that they were binding when pressing the cylinder back into the caliper. (If these were the fronts which run hotter, I'd be looking for potential binding by the 3rd set of front pads). Bleed the brakes with fresh fluid, and you are good to go. I'd really doubt whether you needed to replace the rear pads at 50K miles though, given that you just replaced the fronts. 50K on the fronts tells me you are a not a hot-rodder or do fast hard stops....so I would think you have a long way to go on your rear pads.