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SUVs GMC Jimmy GMC Jimmy Electrical System
102 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 6:06 AM
You are in the GMC Jimmy Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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1999 jimmy 4x4 changing the cv shaft, will the cv shaft go through the steering knuckle, or do i have to remove it? thanks michael |
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98 Jimmy...takes 4 attemps to start in morning...great in afternoon. Runs bad at light throttle,,,,if I floor it...it runs great...one thing that is constant...in the morning...I start the truck and only the left side speakers work...truck runs bad....afternoons...both side speakers work and the truck runs great...I'm not crazy and know speakers don't make the truck run bad but the two have to be connected...It has to be some switch ...I think...also sometimes when only left speakers work...cruise won't work...could it be the ignitiion switch? Or...could I just be CRAZY......... replaced..computer..fuel pump...cam and crank sensor...distr..pugs..wires... I get codes telling me it misfires....and sometimes is -7 off in timing...but I can't turn the distr..it's locked down...HELPPPPPP |
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| I have a 2000 GMC Jimmy SLS 4x4, 4.3L, 2Dr. I keep hearing the flasher (behind the glove box) clicking. Has done this for the last year I have owned it. I have replaced it (27.00 from dealer) and still clicks (they would not even take the part back even though I was in the lane outside customer service). When I press the brake pedal, the clicking stops. Take my foot off, the clicking continues. I disconnected the brake switch, and the clicking continues. All lights, flashers and blinkers work properly. Blinkers/4 ways do not flash unless turn signal/hazard switch activated. Still the clicking persists. Any help on resolving this issue would be very appreciated. Thank you very much in advance. | |
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Hi guys...I have a good one here that I'm hoping one of you can figure out for me. I have a 1996 Jimmy that I put an electric over hydraulic plow on. I put a second battery in it to help with the draw. I used it all last winter and when everything was running (lights, defroster, rear defroster, rear wiper, front wipers...when I actuated the plow...it would draw down to  9 volts at an idle to 1000 rpm. I decided to put on a larger output alternator for this coming winter and bought a 155 amp unit and also the recommended beefier wiring kit with a 175 amp fuse in it. I installed everything and ran the vehicle with everything going and actuated the plow several times. It still drew down to 10 volts but recovered much quicker. I shut it off and since it's just used for plowing, I didn't start it again for a week or so. Recently, I started her up and immediately noticed that the voltmeter was registering about 9.5 volts with no load on anything. I called Napa and had them ship another one. I took my new one in and the guy bench tested it and said it was good. He also tested the new one they got for a replacement and found it to be bad so he ordered a third one. I installed this one and it worked fine. I started it up the next 3 days in a row and it was charging just fine...but the 4th day, it did the same thing. When I started it up, it wasn't charging. Something happened to both alternators between the time I shut off the vehicle and the alternator was charging...to the next time I started it and it wasn't. I believe I should have 12 volts at the charge cable end at the alternator at all times...I do. Also, the "L" terminal coming out of the harness at the alternator should have 12 volts when the ignition is in the RUN or START position...I can't confirm that. I don't have a test meter...just a 12 volt trouble light and I'm not sure I'm making a good connection to that small pin but I had these conditions before I installed the second alternator and it worked for 4 days. I don't understand what has happened...why the new alternator will work for a while and then just stop working while the engine isn't even running. I just replaced the original 105 amp alternator with a higher output one...and I installed the wire upgrade kit that goes with it. What does that "L" pin go to? Does it have something to do with "exciting" the regulator? I think I read that it could have a resistor in the line somewhere. What does it look like, where is it located, and how do I test it? Can you enlighten and help me...PLEASE? 
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| I have a 1997 GMC Jimmy 2WD 4.3L engine that I need a wiring diagram for. I bought a Haynes repair manual , but it doesn't seem to come close to covering my vehicles wiring. My jimmy had a fire under it at some point in its past and melted a large switch assy on the side of my tranny. It seems to select lights (reverse etc) among other things, but its all kind of a mess now. Where can a guy obtain this info. Thanks. | |
| I think something is draining the battery. I replaced the battery and the alternator but that didn't help. I checked the fuses and they all look ok. I was thinking maybe it's the positive cable on the battery, but I'm not sure. I'm not familiar with the electrical system. I just tried to start the truck and there was power. As soon as I turned the key everything went dead. I'm going to get this battery charged again and take it from there. If anyone has any ideas, I'ld love to here it. Thanks in advance. | |
| you have a bad connection somewhere, you can check the positive post to make sure it is not broken, that happened to me once, or your possitive cable is corroded somewhere down the line. | |
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| My brother was driving his Jimmy the other night when without warning he lost all electrical. He didn't even have a slighty flicker of power once it died. I asked him if he smelt anything hot like there was a short somewhere and he said NO. I checked his battery and it had more then enough power to turn on dome lights yet they wouldn't work. Everything is dead. We don't know what the problem can be, we looked at the ignition switch and I don't see anything wrong with it but not quite sure how to test it. What would cause this vehical to just loose electrical power without any warning? | |
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