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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Braking Issues
115 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:54 PM
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Replying to: dustyk (Sep 16, 2007 8:24 am) When replacing pads on ANY disk-brake system, you must take the time to file smooth the pad sliding surfaces. Otherwise, the new pads may bind up and give you all kinds of problems after awhile. I went out and bought an new basterd file specifically to smooth out the sliding surfaces on my Dakota.... they were deeply gouged from the old pads and my old file was not up to the task. Also, the quality-pads I purchased (Raybestos QS) came with Stainless Steel spacers which covered over the crusty, old contact points replacing them with ssmmootthh stainless steel sliders.. |
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Hi All, I have a 01 QC, 4x4,4.7 auto,4wd. I want to change the rear brake shoes. I notice parts list reference 2 sizes, (I only have the standard rwd antilocks). Do I have the 9" or the 11"???? Also, I notice on some other dodge sites people use different oil filter #'s that are larger, but still fit with threading and gasket size. Seems to me the larger filter would be better so long as the fit did not interfere with anything? Any thoughts??? Hope Dusty and Bpeebles are having good luck with their trucks. I have about 87k. Hoping not to have any big $ probs. in the future?? Time will tell. Thanks, Tom.
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| thanks for writing back. dragging brakes would sound right. i failed to mention that i live in ct and drive in 95 traffic to work.stop and go followed by speed up to 50 only to slam on brakes. my factory roters and last set both warped, while rear brakes are fine.if its not the guides does anyone know how to diagnose master cylinder or balancing valve | |
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Replying to: gtownguy2 (Sep 16, 2007 6:54 pm) Since many oil filters use a standard thread and have approximately the same bypass valve cut-off pressures, a larger filter would obviously give you more capacity for holding contaminants. You need to be careful, though, since different filter models are designed for specific applications where oil flow rates or bypass pressures are different. This usually translates into the filter using a different media which handles greater flow rates by using a less fine material. Most filters trap 12-14 micron size particles, but some go down to 8, which is typical of newer Mopar designs. Since I stick to regular oil changes I'm sure that my 4.7 motor is relatively clean, so the need for an increased size of filter is not desired. I would recommend that you check the spec's on any filter your considering before adopting its use. My personal opinion is you shouldn't ever need a larger filter if you've maintained the engine properly and used the correct oil. Best regards, Dusty |
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Replying to: gtownguy2 (Sep 16, 2007 6:54 pm) |
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The front brakes locked and with great difficulty was able to drive home, the brakes and calipers were smoking. Lifted up the front end and could not move the tires by hand. I went after all the possibilities. I replaced the brake hoses and the o-ring and dust boots in the calipers. The rotors and pads were original with 85000 miles and the rotors were warped so I replaced them as well along with the pads. Took it for a spin and after a while they locked again. Replaced the master cylinder and flushed all the old fluid. Took it for a spin and after a while felt a little heavy so I lifted the front end and the tires are hard to turn by hand and felt hotter than usual. I'm considering replacing the calipers altogether cause I'm a little puzzled now. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Robert
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Replying to: cubansky (Sep 22, 2007 9:07 am) I can attest that both of my front calipers behaved like yours... when they heated up, they seazed the pads to the rotors. After cooling off, they seemed OK for about 10 miles. My rebuilt calipers are BETTER quality than the originals. (The originals use a non-metallic piston.) Also, one MUST MUST MUST replace brake fluid at least every 2 years due to moisture in the hydrolic system.... lest suffer the fate of replacing calipers due to internal rust.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Sep 24, 2007 3:38 pm) I replaced the calipers and now it works fine. Thanks for the reply it's greatly appreciated. I'm glad I came across this web site,I think is awesome. Thanks again Robert
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Replying to: cubansky (Sep 26, 2007 3:56 am) Modern automotive brake calipers are built as cheaply as possible with the lowest-cost materials that will barely do the job. In my many years of doing my own brake-work. I sense that Chrysler has been notorious for using the very cheapest of materials. Even my old AMC Eagle had Chrysler brake-calipers on it that even Chrysler did not want to use on their own vehicles. I have found that the brake caliper design and components on my old Nissan pickup truck may have been the best I have ever seen. The main positive thing I can say about Dodge-Chrysler brake components is that spare parts are plentiful and relativly inexpensive. (as compared to some other brands) Here is a photo I snapped of some Powerslot Rotors after just 3 Vermont winters. (The originals lasted only 2 winters) The astute observer will see that there are 2 sets of pads in that photo. It did not save me any money to install cheep components... they were junk. The surface of the pads started to transfer to the rotors!!! (I did expect better from Powerslot-brand rotors) On my Dakota... after replacing pads/rotors and calipers with HIGH QUALITY components (Bendix and Raybestos)... It has been trouble-free thru many Vermont winters. |
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| My ABS and Brake light both light after about 10 secs above 65mph and stay lit. | |
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