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Pickups Dodge Dakota Dodge Dakota Braking Issues
115 messages, Last post on Dec 04, 2009 at 5:54 PM
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Replying to: beth_l (Jun 26, 2007 7:32 am) |
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I had let my truck sit in the driveway for a month without moving it, then drove it about 30 miles into Atlanta from North GA. Driving in was fine, then driving home was sitting in traffic going 5 to 10 mph for an hour. Once I got thru that, the tranny was laboring to keep up and my brakes were very pumped up on the pedal. Finally got home and a bad smell from the front tires and extreme heat on passenger side tire front and also drivers side. Any suggestions how to release that dragging brake? 
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Replying to: dudeman1 (Jul 13, 2007 9:01 pm) If there's still drag then the calipers are probably frozen. In very, very rare cases, the master cylinder or proportioning valve might not be releasing. Regards, Dusty
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Replying to: dustyk (Jul 14, 2007 12:39 pm) |
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sometimes when i'm driving my 05 dakota[v6 auto] on the thruway, which turns about 2100 rpm, 70 mph, the truck will start to lose rpm's and slow down until it downshifts and comes back to speed and then it wil keep doing it for few miles and it will finally clear it self up. it doesn't do this all the time.anyone run across this problem, the dealer said that it would have to be doing it for them to tell
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Took the truck out today and while I was driving I noticed it was slugish. When I hit the brake it had one hell of a shimmy. When I accelerated it was sluggish and also had a shimmy. I stopped and checked out the wheels and I noticed the front rotors were piping hot. It seems both of the front rotors locked, but not completly though, I was still able to drive just while using the brake. When I got home they smoked....bad. To hit the brake pedal while driving, it felt like when you pump the brakes with the truck off. Soft for about 1/2" then hard. Someone mentioned electrical with the abs, another said master cylinder... I am out of warranty and can't afford to put it in the shop for a week. Any help would be greatly appriciated. Thanks Peter
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Replying to: ppidgursky (Aug 09, 2007 4:20 pm) I have had front calipers on my Dak. get "stickie" and not realease properly. However, I have not seen BOTH sides fail at the same time. Since calipers are known to get stickie, you may wish to first examine them BEFORE digging into electrical or ABS components.
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Replying to: bpeebles (Aug 10, 2007 5:50 pm) So, I changed it. When I did I noticed the seals on the calipers were melted out...COMPLETELY.... form the heat. So needless to say I changed the calipers. Works fine now. Looks like the master cylinder fried in turn causing the calibers to seize. And yes it was noth front wheels. This truck only has rear ABS, so I know that was not the issue. Thanks For Your Time.. Peter |
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i have a 01 qc slt+ 2wd 4.7 auto and have gone through more front brakes in 80,000 miles than i should in 250,000 miles 1)factory 50,000 2)drilled/slotted roters with titanium pads that wore through roters at 60,000 3)cheap set from auto zone at 70,000, warped 4)2nd cheap set [rabestos] at 80,000, now at 84,000 and i am getting constant squilling [stopping and driving]. as well as heavy grinding/vibration when i first start going after a stop that will disapear if i tap the brakes.it also does it now while stopping. any suggestions? thanks.
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Replying to: paul86 (Sep 14, 2007 1:16 pm) Assuming that your driving style has not changed in the last thirty-thousand miles, and you can get 50K out of factory brake components, then on the surface it looks like you are experiencing brake component material issues with the aftermarket stuff. My 2003 Dak went 57K on the factory pads and rotors, and the pads still had plenty of miles left on them when they were changed out. The replacements were Mopar service line rotors and pads and I had to replace them just recently at 83K because of brake pulsing from hard spots. I probably could've cleaned this pair of rotors up, but I've had such bad luck with lathe turned rotors I just gave in and bought new. I was actually tempted to use the pads as they had about 80% left on them, but my Dodge dealer gives me enough break on parts that I didn't want to risk it. I've noticed that the newer Mopar service line replacement rotors have a silver coating on them. I don't know if this is rust protection for shipping purposes, or what, but the technician at the dealership thinks they last longer. Just as a point of reference, I know there are Dak owners who are convinced that the Dak has inherently short mileage brakes, and compared to some of my automobiles I'd be tempted to say the same thing. Most of my cars gave me better than 60K. My '93 Sentra went nearly 100K on the factory brakes. But my two Chevy pick-up trucks gave up their front brakes pretty consistently at 40-50K, and our '99 Toyota Avalon didn't make 50K either. People I work with are reporting generally lower miles from front brakes on many trucks of different makes and models. One guy with a Titan has had three sets of front pads and rotors in less than 45K! Anyway, my suggestion would be to inspect and clean the calipers and brake hardware. Pay close attention to the pad contact points on the brake adaptors. They get deep pits in them after a while that can cause the pads to hang up and drag. Of course, the calipers could be sticking causing the same thing (look for ripped or deteriorated piston seals), as well as a defective master cylinder or the rubber brake lines. Good luck & best regards, Dusty
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