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Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

173 messages,  Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 7:34 AM

You are in the Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan Forum. Your Host is Karens

What is this discussion about? Dodge Grand Caravan, Chrysler Voyager, Plymouth Voyager, Electrical, Van


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#31 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [shipo] by ace4000
Jan 25, 2007 (11:55 am)
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Replying to: shipo (Jan 25, 2007 11:39 am)

Its the 3.0 V6 and it is 2wd. BTW, she's not my GF, maybe some other day, lol.
 
Thanks,
Adam
#32 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [ace4000] by shipo
Jan 25, 2007 (1:52 pm)
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Replying to: ace4000 (Jan 25, 2007 11:55 am)

Sorry, didn't mean to rush things.
 
Okay, so you're dealing with the Mitsubishi mill. I've never actually had to work on one before so I don't actually know how difficult the timing belt R&R is. That having been said, by looking at my handy-dandy manual I see that this is a fairly involved job, and one that I wouldn't want to tackle without a guide.
 
Were I in your shoes, I'd call around to see who has a manual and go and check the procedure out for yourself.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#33 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [shipo] by ace4000
Jan 25, 2007 (6:34 pm)
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Replying to: shipo (Jan 25, 2007 1:52 pm)

But is the timing belt the problem? I mostly work on Volvos and if the timing belt breaks you can spin the rotor. On this van you can't spin the rotor and it dosen't rotate when craking. It dosn't make any sense to me . Oh well, hopfully I can figure it out.
#34 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [ace4000] by shipo
Jan 26, 2007 (3:22 am)
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Replying to: ace4000 (Jan 25, 2007 6:34 pm)

Tough call. From what I can tell from the pictures, the distributor is slaved to the left side cam (front side on a transverse installation). Given that the distributor is driven at the same speed as the cam (i.e. half of engine RPMs), there should be a 45 degree gear cut for the cam/distributor drive, so turning the cam by itself shouldn't be a problem. That said, it would seem logical to me that if a cam is loaded up by one or more valve spring(s), it should be quite difficult to turn via the distributor shaft, especially so if the belt broke in such a way as to bind the cam drive within the belt housing.
 
At this point, this is all mere speculation until you pull the front of the engine off and have a good look-see. Let us know what you find. Good luck.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#35 of 173
90 dodge caravan 3.0 s.e by jorger
Jan 29, 2007 (12:37 pm)
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I need help with the timming marks.How do I line the timming notches, thanks Jorge
#36 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [shipo] by ace4000
Jan 29, 2007 (3:25 pm)
Reply

Replying to: shipo (Jan 26, 2007 3:22 am)

I am going to check the timing belt tomorow and I have a quick question: Is the 3.0L an interference engine and if so do you think that we have damage it by trying to get it to start if the timming belt is broken?
 
Thanks,
Adam
#37 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [ace4000] by shipo
Jan 29, 2007 (4:13 pm)
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Replying to: ace4000 (Jan 29, 2007 3:25 pm)

Funny you should mention that, I was just on a web site a few days ago that gave a list of many (most?, all?) engines sold here in the U.S.A. that are interference engines. I'll see if I can find the link in my "History" and I'll report back.
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#38 of 173
Re: No Start and Rotor Dosen't Spin [shipo] by shipo
Jan 29, 2007 (5:38 pm)
Reply

Replying to: shipo (Jan 29, 2007 4:13 pm)

Per the following web site at least, the 3.0 liter Mitsubishi mill is NOT an interference engine.
 
http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/bmw-525i-articles.html
 
Best Regards,
Shipo
#39 of 173
Re: 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3 Not Starting [flavijon] by yeorgos
Feb 22, 2007 (11:39 pm)
Reply

Replying to: flavijon (Sep 20, 2006 4:43 pm)

the p0352 code indicate a coil circuit failure. I found that for my van one of the leads going to the coil pack that is controlled by the pcm was constantly to ground if the battery was connected. This means that the coil never charges and therefore cannot fire the plugs. This is likely due to a capacitor to the coil driver circuit in the pcm failing. I don't recommend removing the resin in the pcm and replacing the cap as this is your vehicle and if you get in an accident because of your fix, you may end up being in a big pickle.
Why it happens is unknown to me, it may be from command starts, as that one wire that goes to your dash from the coil pack seems to be a command start wire. I would recommend going to a junkyard and picking up another coil pack (i got mine from an intrepid), as there may be a failure in that $10 part ($100 from store) even though it passes the resistance test across primary and secondary windings. If you get a new pcm, it is worth replacing.
The likely culprits are: wiring for the coil pack and injectors, as they go across the engine and may melt from heat; Wiring harnness under the battery box as poor maintenance can drip shit on the harness and wreak havoc; PCM coil driver circuit just failing;
 
Some no spark causes can include: camshaft or crankshaft sensors being faulty or inproper installation (always new paper spacer, always); Voltage supply circuit to these sensors or the output wire being faulty; a messed up flexplate!; grounds being poor; asd relay being faulty; connections in general; spark plug wires!! (secondary circuit uses two spark plug wires to complete the circuit) replace those rear plugs, it is hard, but if you remove the cowl and start taking things apart it gets easier, and if you take the intake phelum off you get "great" access to the plugs in the rear for 3.3 and 3.8L and you also can inspect the wiring to the injectors/coil pack. Just get a new metal gasket for intake phelum replacement.
 
I had p0352 as a code and after tracing wires, replacing the plugs, checking the plug wires, and jiggling all sorts of things, ended up replacing the coil pack and the pcm (hard to find the pcm for my 3.8L 1996 fwd post nov 95 production date). Threw the junkyard pcm in and started right away. Just be thorough befor you do that, because it can be rare and expensive for the pcm. Match that pcm part number exactly, as parameters matter a lot. Never took it to the dealer because my year is pre crazy carkey days, and the van has been running for a month no problem.
 
Hope people don't have the struggle MANY others have with this as dealers want to throw parts at it and it has a tendancy to reoccur for many online companions. BE THOROUGH WITH THE WIRES IN QUESTION. Chase them right to the pcm.
#40 of 173
Re: dead 2002 dodge caravan [tfd1] by yeorgos
Feb 22, 2007 (11:48 pm)
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Replying to: tfd1 (Jan 21, 2007 9:07 am)

It could be your connections to the battery, as the battery seemed fine before i assume, and the removal of the battery may have weakened the cable connections. By boosting, you may have encouraged a better connection. Was the old battery frozen? low specific gravity? corroded connections?
Consider replacing the terminal connections/ cables if you do feel or see failing wires

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