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Chrysler/Plymouth Voyager, Dodge Caravan
Caravan/Voyager Starting and Stalling Problems

173 messages, Last post on Nov 12, 2009 at 7:34 AM
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Replying to: shipo (Jan 25, 2007 11:39 am) Thanks, Adam
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Replying to: ace4000 (Jan 25, 2007 11:55 am) Okay, so you're dealing with the Mitsubishi mill. I've never actually had to work on one before so I don't actually know how difficult the timing belt R&R is. That having been said, by looking at my handy-dandy manual I see that this is a fairly involved job, and one that I wouldn't want to tackle without a guide. Were I in your shoes, I'd call around to see who has a manual and go and check the procedure out for yourself. Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (Jan 25, 2007 1:52 pm)
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Replying to: ace4000 (Jan 25, 2007 6:34 pm) At this point, this is all mere speculation until you pull the front of the engine off and have a good look-see. Let us know what you find. Good luck. Best Regards, Shipo
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I need help with the timming marks.How do I line the timming notches, thanks Jorge
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Replying to: shipo (Jan 26, 2007 3:22 am) Thanks, Adam
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Replying to: ace4000 (Jan 29, 2007 3:25 pm) Best Regards, Shipo
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Replying to: shipo (Jan 29, 2007 4:13 pm) http://www.rebuiltautoengines.com/bmw-525i-articles.html Best Regards, Shipo |
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Replying to: flavijon (Sep 20, 2006 4:43 pm) Why it happens is unknown to me, it may be from command starts, as that one wire that goes to your dash from the coil pack seems to be a command start wire. I would recommend going to a junkyard and picking up another coil pack (i got mine from an intrepid), as there may be a failure in that $10 part ($100 from store) even though it passes the resistance test across primary and secondary windings. If you get a new pcm, it is worth replacing. The likely culprits are: wiring for the coil pack and injectors, as they go across the engine and may melt from heat; Wiring harnness under the battery box as poor maintenance can drip shit on the harness and wreak havoc; PCM coil driver circuit just failing; Some no spark causes can include: camshaft or crankshaft sensors being faulty or inproper installation (always new paper spacer, always); Voltage supply circuit to these sensors or the output wire being faulty; a messed up flexplate!; grounds being poor; asd relay being faulty; connections in general; spark plug wires!! (secondary circuit uses two spark plug wires to complete the circuit) replace those rear plugs, it is hard, but if you remove the cowl and start taking things apart it gets easier, and if you take the intake phelum off you get "great" access to the plugs in the rear for 3.3 and 3.8L and you also can inspect the wiring to the injectors/coil pack. Just get a new metal gasket for intake phelum replacement. I had p0352 as a code and after tracing wires, replacing the plugs, checking the plug wires, and jiggling all sorts of things, ended up replacing the coil pack and the pcm (hard to find the pcm for my 3.8L 1996 fwd post nov 95 production date). Threw the junkyard pcm in and started right away. Just be thorough befor you do that, because it can be rare and expensive for the pcm. Match that pcm part number exactly, as parameters matter a lot. Never took it to the dealer because my year is pre crazy carkey days, and the van has been running for a month no problem. Hope people don't have the struggle MANY others have with this as dealers want to throw parts at it and it has a tendancy to reoccur for many online companions. BE THOROUGH WITH THE WIRES IN QUESTION. Chase them right to the pcm. |
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Replying to: tfd1 (Jan 21, 2007 9:07 am) Consider replacing the terminal connections/ cables if you do feel or see failing wires |
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