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Chevrolet Impala Lighting/Electrical Problems

433 messages,  Last post on Mar 21, 2013 at 9:44 AM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Impala, Lights, Electrical, Sedan

Messages Page 24 of 44

#224 of 433 BCM removal? by shadow5599

Oct 22, 2007 (11:51 am)

My father inlaw's Impala is driving him nuts with the intermittent security light and no start condition. The dealer suggests he spend $700 on a new module but they cant guarantee that will fix it. They even gave him a copy of the bulletin, doc ID 1547837 below with his written estimate.
 
"BCM - Security Lamp ON/No Crank/DTC's Set
Bulletin No.: 04-08-47-003
Date: August 31, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Security Light On, Engine Will Not Crank, Diagnostic Trouble Codes B2958 and/or B2960 (Repair Poor Terminal Connections at Body Control Module)
Models:
2000-2005 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo
Condition:
Some customers may comment on an engine that will not crank. Others may comment on the security light
being on. Technicians may find DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes) B2958 and/or B2960.
Cause: These conditions may have several different causes. In each case, however, testing of the BCMs (Body
Control Modules) replaced for these conditions are frequently found to be operating to specifications and are
believed to have been replaced needlessly.
 
The following are the likely causes of these conditions:
1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start
condition:
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 1836)
 
Blah blah blah, etc...etc..
 
SO...they use the words "replaced needlessly" and "likely caused by" yet attached to this I have an estimate to replace part# GM10489422 module at a cost of $700 total parts including labour. I now find that the part number is an Electric Ignition Control Module. Huh??
 
I want to get the BCM removed so anyone with info or tips please let me know. The yellow spots on the circuit board someone is referring to are indeed solder flux, a very normal thing to find and is NOT the problem. What one needs to look for is cracked solder connections. Those usually show up as a small crack or ring around the solder connection and most often when found are on the larger type connections such as the posts which a plug goes onto.
 
Cracked, cold or otherwise poor solder connections is imho probably the single most common reason for equipment failure, of any type. The second most common problem is electrolytic capacitor failure which has become almost epidemic in the past few years. I dont see any electrolytic capacitors of crap on the picture of the BCM module.
 
I'm an electronic tech and in the past 25 years or so I've repaired 1,000's of bad solder connections on circuit boards and modules in various equipment (not vehicles) and the pattern is always the same. This module is not any different in construction than one found in a TV, computer or similar electronic device. I need to get it out and inspect it closely. While it's out I will most likely resolder all connections on the plug posts and check the plugs for corrosion or other problems.
 
Now I need to be able to get it out, if the father inlaw allows me to try this. Any info someone may have to get this thing out would be appreciated
 
I would of course post my findings here if I got through with the removal, inspection (and hopefully repair).

#225 of 433 Re: Look at this BCM (for security, no start) [eray2000] by shadow5599

Oct 22, 2007 (11:58 am)

Replying to: eray2000 (Sep 09, 2007 5:42 pm)
Eray2000, thx for the pictures of the BCM! Those are great high res pictures and I can almost say that some of those solder connections along that row by the grey socket may be bad. Thats on the file bcm02.jpg. Fantastic shot!
 
I know if that was my module, out of the car like that one is, I'd be resoldering every one of those joints.

#226 of 433 Re: BCM removal? [shadow5599] by jnt

Oct 22, 2007 (6:42 pm)

Replying to: shadow5599 (Oct 22, 2007 11:51 am)
The following are the likely causes of these conditions:
1. Damaged or loose/unseated terminals in these BCM connectors may cause a security light or no start
condition:
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B9 (white wire, circuit 1459)
^ BCM connector C1 (24-way, pink in color), terminal B12 (black wire, circuit 1835)
^ BCM connector C2 (24-way, grey in color), terminal A3 (yellow wire, circuit 183
 
Based on this info, it is not the BCM pin (inside the BCM module) not soldered properly. The problem is limited to the vehicle wiring harness that is connected to the BCM module.
 
Every copper wire is terminated with a metal terminal by crimping . The terminals (female type) are then inserted into the vehicle connector housing. I bet either the crimping job were bad or the terminals got loose from the connector housing and then cause electrical disconnection.
 
Good luck
 
jt

#227 of 433 Hazard/Turn Signal Switch Replacement by kdconod

Oct 22, 2007 (7:25 pm)

If any of you have the dreaded turn signal/hazard light problem, you can replace the hazard switch yourself in about ten minutes with simple tools.
 
Here's some photos of how to do it:
http://www.flickr.com/gp/93599926N00/7ru3N6
 
The hazard switch is GM part #10359031
http://www.gmpartsdepartment.com/

#228 of 433 Re: Hazard/Turn Signal Switch Replacement [kdconod] by terri411

Oct 25, 2007 (7:56 pm)

Replying to: kdconod (Oct 22, 2007 7:25 pm)
Thank you so much for this info!! I will be ordering the switch tomorrow and replacing it myself.

#229 of 433 Re: Look at this BCM (for security, no start) [shadow5599] by eray2000

Oct 31, 2007 (7:56 pm)

Replying to: shadow5599 (Oct 22, 2007 11:58 am)
shadow5599, thank you very much for pointing out the possible bad solder connections. Recently, I had a mechanic to permanently bypass the PASSLOCK system through PCM code hacking. Not sure if it works or not and I have to wait for several months to see. I will post back when I am sure the problem is fixed.
 
In fact very few mechanics have the equipment and knowledge to perform this kind of hacking (I believe most dealers don't know how to do that either except ripping you off for no-sure fix). I also found a link at other forums
 
http://www.e-z.net/~iei/vatts.htm
 
Follow the procedure and you should be able to bypass the PASSLOCK system too.
 
Good luck to everyone who has trouble with the security/no start problem.

#230 of 433 Re: Look at this BCM (for security, no start) [shadow5599] by shadow5599

Nov 01, 2007 (9:54 am)

I havent looked at the car yet but not quite understanding the bypass procedure. Especially where the resistor goes. I can see it goes between the black wire and a point labeled as 87. Where is this point 87 on the diagram physically located? Is that block they show a relay or?

#231 of 433 Water in Headlights by kdconod

Nov 03, 2007 (1:50 pm)

I always seem to have water/condensation in my driver side headlight and foglight. About a year ago I took out my headlight, dried it out with a heatgun and put a little clear silicone sealer around the edge to make sure it wouldn't leak, but the darn thing still has water in it, as does the foglight. Driver side only which is weird, passenger side is fine.
 
Any ideas on where this water could be coming from??

#232 of 433 Re: More annoying than anything... [silverbug] by saclfa

Nov 03, 2007 (5:24 pm)

Replying to: silverbug (Aug 05, 2007 2:40 pm)
Just.curious.if.this.fixed.your.problems.I.have.the.exact.
same.symptoms.

#233 of 433 Re: security light/no start [lindaf] by revjim64

Nov 04, 2007 (7:59 am)

Replying to: lindaf (Oct 16, 2007 10:51 am)
Replace the "passlock" sensor, that should fix the "no-start" problem.
 
 

Messages Page 24 of 44

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