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Chevrolet Impala: Problems & Solutions - READ ONLY

2014 messages,  Last post on Oct 12, 2006 at 3:07 PM

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What is this discussion about? Chevrolet Impala, Sedan

Messages Page 67 of 202

#657 of 2014 Rattling Brake problem Solved!! by b4z

Feb 19, 2003 (9:29 am)

The rattling sound was not the ISS, it is the calipers!
 
Brakes - Rattling Noise
 
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 01-05-23-O11A
Date: February, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject:
Rattle Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle
(Install Front Brake Caliper Service Kit)
Models:
2000-01 Buick Century, Regal
2000-01 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo, Venture
2000-01 Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette
2000-01 Pontiac Grand Prix, Montana
This bulletin is being revised to remove Chevrolet Lumina from the Models
section and to update the condition information. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 01-05-23-11 (Section 05 - Brakes).
 
Built Prior to the VIN Breakpoints shown.
Condition
Some customers may comment about a rattle type noise coming from the front of
the vehicle. This noise usually occurs at vehicle speeds under 48 km/h (30 mph)
and while driving over bumps. The noise can usually be eliminated by a light
application of the brake pedal.
Cause
This condition may be caused by too much clearance between the front brake
caliper bracket and the caliper pins in the bottom of the bracket bores.
Correction
Install front brake caliper service kits to both sides of the vehicle using the
following service procedure. Each kit contains 2 pins, 2 boots, and 2 packets of
grease.
Service Procedure
      1.Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the
      Vehicle in General Information.
      2.Remove both the front tire and wheel assemblies.
      3.Hand tighten 2 wheel nuts to retain the rotor to the hub.
 
      4.Install a large C-clamp (2) over the top of the brake caliper and
      against the back of the outboard brake pad.
      5.Tighten the C-clamp until the caliper piston is pushed into the caliper
      bore enough to slide the caliper off the rotor.
      6.Remove the C-clamp from the caliper.
 
      7.Remove the caliper pin bolts (3) and discard. New bolts are supplied
      with the service kit.
      8.Remove the caliper (1) from the caliper bracket (2) and support the
      caliper with heavy mechanic's wire, or equivalent.
      9.Using a flat bladed tool or punch, carefully tap the caliper pin boots
      from the brake caliper bracket and discard.
      10.Remove and discard the bushings from the brake caliper bracket bores.
      Carefully insert a small screwdriver into the brake caliper bracket bore,
      then rotate and pull the bushing outward to remove.
      11.Remove the brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
      12.Thoroughly clean the brake caliper bracket bores of all lubricant.
      13.Install the brake pads to the brake caliper bracket.
      14.Lubricate the brake caliper bracket bores. Divide the large packet of
      grease, P/N 18046532; put one-half packet into each bore.
 
      15.Lubricate the new caliper pin boots. Use the small packet of grease,
      P/N 18046645, only on the bottom internal threads (2).
      16.Install the new caliper pin boots into the caliper pin bores (3) on the
      bracket. Carefully tap boots into bores using a deep well socket or
      equivalent.
      17.Install the caliper over the rotor and onto the caliper bracket. Ensure
      that the caliper pin boots are not pinched.
 
Important :The leading caliper pin, or top pin, has a bushing as part of the
assembly. The trailing caliper pin, or bottom pin, is a solid design.
      18.Install the new caliper pin bolts (1). It is important to note which
      caliper pin is designed for the correct bore. The leading caliper pin, or
      top pin, has a bushing as part of the assembly. The trailing caliper pin,
      or bottom pin, is a solid design. Ensure that the bolt boots fit securely
      in the groove of the pin bolts. Be sure not to pinch or tear the boots. If
      the boots are damaged, they must be replaced.
      Tighten
      Tighten the bolts to 95 N.m (70 lb ft).
      19.Remove the 2 wheel nuts retaining the rotor to the hub.
      20.Repeat the above steps for the other side.
      21.Install both the front tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten the wheel
      nuts using the J 39544 kit.
      22.Lower the vehicle.
 
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
 
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
 
b4z--I just had this work done on my 2000. No More rattling. (Ken)

#658 of 2014 Air Bag Light!!!! by elruby71

Feb 20, 2003 (1:32 pm)

I was reading this forum and since I am work dont have the time to read all the posts...anyway, my problem is that this light comes on all the time. Is there something with the computer where maybe it is detecting a short or what. If anyone know or has a solution, please let me know...thanks in advance. BTW - I have a 2000 3.4l Impala.

#659 of 2014 Air Bag by nosirrahg

Feb 21, 2003 (7:16 am)

I have the same problem with my 2000 3.8l. I mentioned it to the service rep when I took mine in for the "check engine" light, but they said there were no codes stored for the air bag (the light wasn't on at the time). Naturally, any time I've got the time to take it in, the light doesn't come on. I've been assured the light doesn't mean the air bag will go off prematurely, but it probably does mean it won't work if I had an accident (not sure which would be worse).

#660 of 2014 AC Mildew odor by larryfl

Feb 25, 2003 (6:43 am)

My wife's '02 LS has been emitting a mildew odor through the AC for the last few months (Yes, in Florida we have the AC on all year). I took it in to the dealership for it's first checkup last week and, in addition to the oil change and tire rotation, had a small laundry list of issues we've been saving up for it's visit, the odor being one of them.
 
All the issues were taken care of under warranty except the odor. The dealer said they have some cars that do this, they knew exactly what the fix would be, but said that Chevrolet REFUSED to pay for it as a warranty repair because "it's technically not a mechanical failure, but is considered an environmental issue". The mildew is formed in the evaporator, which needs to be taken out and "Flushed and cleaned". It apparently normally only happens in California and Florida and is caused by running the AC with the windows down ?!????!
 
The fix (probably only temporary) isn't particularly expensive - $120 - but it's the principle of the thing to me. This is obviously a known issue and a design defect - none of our other cars (GM or otherwise) have ever had this problem. DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A TSB ADDRESSING THIS? The dealer said they didn't know of one but I'm not sure I believe them.
 
Thanks for any help.

#661 of 2014 AC Mildew by otto42

Feb 25, 2003 (12:56 pm)

Never heard of the theory of running the AC with the windows down, but this is a problem that happens to lots of cars, it's not specific to any particular one.
 
The problem is that you get mildew growing in the evaporator and the ducts. If the ducts and evaporator are wet for 3weeks/month, fungus moves in. Period. Happens on any car. Happens on home AC too, except there it's usually called Legionnaires' disease.
 
There's a lot of ways to prevent it, but essentially the idea is to dry the ducts every once in a while.
-Run it with the vent on but the compressor off from time to time. This will dry them out and prevent buildup.
-Put it on recycle mode (internal air) and spray some lysol in the intake, then immediately shut off the vent after you spray a bit. The Lysol will stay in there overnight, and dry the mess out, along with killing the mildew and preventing it from being in there for a time.
-Half a dozen other ways using other products besides Lysol.
 
The point being that it's not a design defect as such, it's just the reality of an HVAC system. Cars have been doing this since they put in the first AC unit.

#662 of 2014 Larryfl by drivinisfun

Feb 25, 2003 (1:04 pm)

I agree with your dealer's comments. Mildew smells in the A/C is not a defect in the ventilation system but rather a fact of life with any A/C equipped car here in Florida. See, if you always run your A/C in "Recirc" mode or air circulation, due to our very high year round humidity levels, mildew will start to grow and develop inside the car's HVAC system and air circulation outlet passages inside the dashboard. In Recirc mode, the air always circulates throught the cabin and doesn't get replinished, meanwhile when you use the "Fresh" setting (Outdoor ventilation gates open), the air inside the cabin will always be renewed and therefore chances for mildew to develop will be greatly minimized.
 
I have never ever had this problem in my '01 Impala LS because I typically run the A/C in the "Recirc" setting for no more than 30 minutes and after the car has reached a comfortable temperature level inside then I switch to "Fresh" mode and therefore the cabin air is continously refreshed.
 
I hate to tell you this but your dealer ripped you off in your face by charging you $120 for a fix that probably will not last for more than a month. To combat A/C system mildew is a very easy procedure and one that you can do by yourself and for free...it only takes 15 minutes every month or couple of months depending on the time of the year. Here is what you need to do:
 
1) Start engine
2) Allow engine to reach normal operating temperature if the car has been parked overnight or for several hours.
3) Set the interior temperature controls to maximum heat. If you have an Impala LS with the dual zone temperature controls, slide both switches up to maximum heat.
4) Make sure the system is in "Recirc" mode
5) Set the fan to maximum speed (Position 5)
6) If the A/C compressor is on, switch it to off by pressing the button with the snowflake or A/C label in it.
7) Make sure the airflow is directed to the dashboard vents ONLY.
8) Exit the vehicle and close the doors/windows.
9) leave vehicle's engine and heater running for about 15 to 20 minutes depending on the severity of the mildew smell.
10) The excessive amount of heat will kill and dry off any existing mildew in the inner ventilation passage ways.
11) Repeat procedure as needed until odor is eliminated.
12) When you run the A/C again, initially leave it running in "Recirc" for 10 minutes, then switch to "Fresh" mode. This will discharge any remaining burnt mildew out of the vehicle from the outer exterior vents.
13) GOLDEN RULE: Initially leave running A/C in Recirc for no more than 30 minutes, then switch to "Fresh" airflow settings. Never leave the A/C running in Recirc all the time while driving.
14) You will never have to deal with this problem again and get ripped off at the dealer.
 
Important note: Avoid the temptation of spreaying a can of Lysol on the exterior vents to kill the mildew. Often this makes the problem even worse after a while.
 
I had a couple of Acura vehicles with the same problem in the past and this little method was effective in eliminating the nasty mildew odor and saved me $$$$ in ineffective anti-mildew methods.
 
Good luck and if I were you, I would never comeback to that dealer.

#663 of 2014 lysol by otto42

Feb 25, 2003 (2:16 pm)

I wouldn't go so far as to say that the lysol method is bad. It works to eliminate the mildew after it's already built up, but to prevent it from building up again you really have to change your habits. Avoid leaving it in recirc all the time, and use outdoor air the majority of the time. That alone is enough to stop it most of the time. The heat method mentioned will work to clear it out sometimes, but I've found it ineffective before (this happened to a couple of my friends cars, and this was in Missouri). The Lysol method worked to clean it out, as long as you're not relying on it for prevention, it's okay.

#664 of 2014 otto42 and drivinisfun by larryfl

Feb 25, 2003 (2:38 pm)

Thanks for the replys. I guess we've been lucky in that it's never happened to us before.
 
I guess the good news is I didn't let the dealer do his service so I'm not out the $$$. I'll try your methods.
 
Drivinisfun: Will running the heater help the mildew in the evaporator?
 
otto42: If I understand your procedure, I spray Lysol in the intake w/ it running in RECIRC mode, let it get throughout the system then cut the car off, close the vents, and let it sit overnight - hopefully killing the mildew throughout the system.
 
Then I can do the heat only procedure to clear everything out. Oughta work!
 
Thanks again. I always thought the most efficient way to cool a car is w/ recirculation so that you weren't trying to constantly cool the superheated (here in florida) outside air. Oh well. I 'll give this a shot.
 
Larry

#665 of 2014 Odor A/C by tommy42

Feb 25, 2003 (4:03 pm)

check out Bullentin 99-01-39-004A on GM Tech link.

#666 of 2014 Instrument lights fade to black by mark521

Feb 25, 2003 (9:52 pm)

I have a 2000 Impala LS (63k miles) and the instrument panel lights, radio, HVAC, etc. now go off when the autoheadlights come on. I have adjusted the dimmer knob, but nothing changes. Any ideas?
 
Thanks...Mark

Messages Page 67 of 202

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