Edmunds.com | Inside Line | Auto Observer Your Account | Help | Directory
You are here:
![[F]](http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/site.gif){kind=small}
Forums
Sedans Hyundai Azera Hyundai Azera Transmission
89 messages, Last post on May 03, 2008 at 5:57 AM
You are in the Hyundai Azera Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
|
Replying to: 101649 (Mar 29, 2006 3:19 am) Here's what the manual states: During the First 1,200 miles (2,000 Km). No formal "break-in" procedure is required with your new Hyundai. However, you can contribute to the economical operation and durability of your Hyundai by observing the following recommendations during the frist 1,200 miles (2,000 km). * Don't drive faster than 55 MPH (88 km/h) * While driving, keep your engine speed (rpm or revolutions per minute) between 2,000 rpm and 4,000 rpm) * Use moderate acceleration. Don't start quickly or depress the accelerator pedal fully. * For the first 200 miles (300 km) try to avoid hard stops. * Whether doing fast or slow, vary your speed from time to time. * Don't let the engine idle longer than 3 minutes at one time * Don't tow a trailer during the first 1,200 miles (2,000 km) of operation. I guess it's best to do what you can. A lot of those recommendations are unrealistic. If a deer jumps in front of your Azera, you're going to probably "hard brake". Keeping the rmp between 2,000 and 4,000 is almost impossible. Never letting the car idle for more than 3 minutes can be difficult in some situations. Keeping the speed under 55 can actually be dangerous on some freeways. |
|
|
|
|
Just got home from Hyundai Dealership. I asked them about resetting or zeroing out the computer setting that controls the shift points for the transmission. After doing some research, he determined that it can't be zeroed out. If anyone has been given different information, I would appreciate your sharing it.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: floridabob1 (Apr 14, 2006 11:30 am) 
|
|
|
Replying to: floridabob1 (Apr 14, 2006 11:30 am) a.) the "Transmission Control Module" which picks up information from other systems in the car (which are independent of your own particular driving habits) b.) "Adaptive" mechanism for the transmission which DOES change over time with your own driving behavior (not sure if it serves as additional input to the Transmission Control Module or whether this is another unit?) In any event, it is my understanding further that: a.) The Transmission Control Module can be checked and modified (if necessary) with their scanning tools b.) The "memory" for the transmission can be erased by disconnecting the battery (however, that also will force you to re-enter a lot of other information which should be on some kind of separate battery back-up, but is not!!) I would try and get some response from Hyundai USA about getting your transmission to perform more to your liking. I do know that there was a major issue years ago with harsh shifting Hyundai transmissions that led to a class-action lawsuit....so they will probably be sensitive to helping in this area, since it seems like you and Ric are having the opposite problem (too subtle?) I am coming from a BMW 740iL which really kicks you in the pants when you downshift, so it is hard for me to make a judgement as to whether this is correct behavior, but mine is also quite "smooth" whereas I would rather have the more pronounced downshifts. |
|
 My shifts on the transmission just don't "feel right." I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and reconnected in hopes that the "learning points" were reset. I didn't notice any difference, however, afterward. Shifts are mushy and inconsistent -- both down-shifting and up-shifting. RPMs surge up and down even within the same gear. Example: I'm traveling up a hill at 40 MPH. In 5th gear it is at about 1300 RPM. I push on the gas more to keep it at 40MPH, I notice a definite down-shift and surge and the RPMs go up to about 2200 RPM. But then I put it in the "manual" shift position and I notice that I'm still in 5th gear. Odd, because I "felt" a definite down shift and surge. So, then I DO down-shift manually to 4th. The RPMs jump to about 2500 and then fall drastically to about 1600, yet my speed hasn't changed. It's almost like the transmission slipped for a moment and then caught on. I keep it manually in 4th gear and push on the gas to accelerate and then there is the "feel" of a down-shift" and the RPMs jump back up to about 2200, yet the instrumentation indicates I'm still in 4th gear. I then take my foot off the gas completely, and there's a "lag" feeling (almost like the engine's going to die) and the RPMS bounce way down to about 1200. I press on the gas again and I surge forward and the RPMs bounce up to 2200. All of this while still manually in 4th gear. Then I shift to fifth gear manually and there's a definite shift down and the RPMs drop to about 1200. But all of these "shifts" and "surges" and "lags" and RPM changes all within the SAME gear is odd to me. And I can do these things in ANY gear. It's like I have 20 total gears all going up and down all over the place while I'm driving. I'm used to my Passat which was very predictable in shifting while in the automatic mode. I could easily manipulate the accelerator to precisely change the shift point. And in the manual mode was very crisp and clean when I up or down shifted. The Azera is just the opposite and I'm having a very hard time getting used to it.
|
|
|
|
|
Replying to: ricwhite (Apr 14, 2006 3:18 pm) |
|
|
Replying to: ricwhite (Apr 14, 2006 3:18 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: tinydog1 (Apr 14, 2006 10:46 pm)
|
|
|
Replying to: ricwhite (Apr 14, 2006 3:18 pm) Starting with late 2004 or early 2005 production, disconnecting the battery no longer erases the TCM's "learned" shift quality programming in Hyundai automatic transmissions. That can only be accomplished now using the High-Scan code reader/reprogrammer tool. Much of the "mushy" shifting in your new transmission is the result of brand new clutch facings that are still establishing a full seat against their driven plates. It'll get better. Still, you might wanna check your AT fluid level on the off chance it's a bit low. Your owner's manual gives instructions and it isn't rocket science. Use ONLY SP-III ATF for top up if necessary. NEVER fill above the full mark on the ATF dipstick. Some of your phantom shifts when ascending a slight grade at ~40mph could well be nothing more than torque converter lockup kicking out. That speed is about where TCL is engaged, so if the engine is pulling, the trannie may "hunt".
|
|
|
Replying to: frazee (Apr 14, 2006 11:31 pm) “After driving several large, top-of-the-line sedans in the past couple of years, some costing more than $80,000, we wondered whether the new, $28,000 Hyundai Azera might put them all to shame. That didn't happen. “…Handling is reasonably sharp, and the car's suspension, while too soft for vigorous sport-sedan-style driving, gives a nice combination of isolation from bumps and feedback from the road.” “…The Azera appears to mark the end of buyers having to explain their reasons for buying a Hyundai. Where previous models lagged behind the competition in design, quality and performance, the Azera is at least on par with rivals. We also think it has a prettier shape than many competitors. Its low cost is simply icing on the cake.” Nonetheless, at $28K the Azera is too expensive and I would never buy it regardless of what the Wall Street Journal says.
|
|
You are here:
Forums
Sedans Hyundai Azera Hyundai Azera Transmission
New? Join Now!
Forum Tools
Search Forums
Browse by Vehicle
2010 Hyundai Azera
Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
Today's Chats
