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Sedans Volkswagen Passat Volkswagen Passat Fuse and Electrical Problems
291 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 6:28 PM
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Hello - I have a 2002 Passat Wagon 1.8T the problem I am having is that while driving down the road all my warning lights on my dash will come on then go off, the clock will reset to 12:00, and in the past the odometer has rolled back when this happens. This is not a one time issue - it has happened several times. The last time this happened the air bag fault light came on and stays on so every time I start the car it will beep at me and stay on. Last week my radio would not come on - I took it in to a repair shop that is not the dealer and they reset the air bag fault light and got the radio working but the light came on several days again under the same circumstances. My question is if any one has heard of this before and also is there a way to some how determine the correct number of miles and the odometer be reset or at least get some thing stating what the correct miles are. Thank You
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Replying to: vicky2007 (Dec 04, 2006 4:13 pm) Thank you for your answer. I did check the fuses. ALL of them, just to be sure.. Unfortunatelly, they are all fine. I used a fuse tester. The radio is a Pioneer and I also have the model... writen somewhere. But the thing is that it does not power up. Is this replaceable, I mean, can I buy a cheap stereo and put it in place of this one?  The engine on this car was replaced. The mecanic says that he didn't touch the dashboard, so he has nothing to do with the stereo not powering up...  Does this sounds logic? It was working before he replaced the engine. Thanks again!
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Replying to: vicky2007 (Jan 22, 2007 10:48 pm) First, I think it is great that you are trying to solve the problem on your own. Good for you!!! Well the comments by the mechanic do make sense, but remember, if he replaced the engine, then he most certainly had to disconnect the battery, which, in turn, caused the electrical circuit to your dash and hence your radio to shut off. Assuming the fuses are indeed fine, my first hunch is that you have a loose wire or connection somewhere between the fuse box and the back of your radio. But before you go get dirty and mess with that circuit, the very first thing I would do is replace the radio fuse, regardless of whether it looks and or tests fine. It is a very inexpensive "fix" and may solve the problem; I am aware that some bad/broken fuses can still arc, giving a false positive test. Hopefully, your problem is solved. If a replacement fuse does not solve the problem, then you are kind of in a catch 22 situation. Why? Well, you have to make a decision as to whether you personally want to spend the time needed to take the radio out of your dash and check the integrity of your connections or have someone else do it. Tough call, but you have some spunk, you have found this site, and you have made it this far. Go for it, what the hell? OK, then the next good step would be for you to check your radio's electrical wire connections before you decide that all hope is lost and that you need to buy a replacement radio. The back of your radio will have a female/male plug connection; sometimes that comes loose and simply re-inserting the connection will do the trick. However, that is easier said than done. In order to expose the back of your radio, you will have to remove it from your dash board. There is a reason why mechanics charge a huge price to fix dash components: it is called labor. It is difficult to describe how to remove your car radio from your dash without my being able to see what your particular dash and radio looks like, but let's give it a try. I will assume that your dash is plastic. It is very likely that your radio will have plastic "shrouds" surrounding what I assume is your rectangular shaped radio. If so, these plastic pieces need to be removed. Be careful, you do not want to break them. A small flat head screw driver with gentle pressure placed underneath the shrouds and at their tab insertion points will usually cause the shrouds to pop off, exposing the metal radio housing. (Your dealer has special tools for all of this, but you are a weekend warrior, so make due with what you have!) The radio may be secured in place by either a slide mechanism or screws; you will have to simply eyeball this and figure out how the radio fits into your dash. In general, radios are self-contained units that will slide in and out of a dash, much like a computer hard drive fits into the housing of a computer tower. Well, if you have gotten this far, awesome. This next step is important: Go to your refrigerator, open up that bottle of bubbly, congratulate yourself and then proceed. Now then, gently slide the radio forward and out of the dash; there should be some slack in the rear radio wire and antenna connetions that allows you to do this. Completely remove the wire plug connection, re-insert same, start your car, turn on your radio, and...hopefully, you can now finish that bottle of bubbly as you listen to your favorite guitar rift from Eric Clapton or that great fusion jazz piece by Spyrogyra. NO? Well, if all of that fails, by all means finish the bottle of bubbly because you have now determined that a new/replacement radio is in order. This is good. The bright side is that since you have now removed the broken radio, you can now buy a substitute radio (local VW dealer--expensive; local car radio store--less expensive and you can see first hand what they have and they could install it for you; or ebay--least expensive) and slide it into the dash by yourself, having saved the huge labor costs that your local VW mechanic would have charged. Now then, take yourself and someone special out to dinner with the money you saved...and by all means turn up the volume on your new sterio. Good Luck!!!! 95Passat P.S. I just replaced the window regulator on my car and save around $400.00 in labor costs.
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Hi! My Daughter's 1992 VW Passat blew a heater core last weekend.  We took the dash apart and replaced the heater core, being VERY careful to replace everything back in the right order. Unfortunately, now that the entire dash is back together, we have a small problem - when the headlights are off, the gauges work fine. HOWEVER, when we turn on the headlights, all gauges go to zero - RPM, Fuel, Speedometer. On a side note, the high beam indicator comes on when the headlights are on low and goes off when the headlights are on high. Any ideas?
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Dealer (Crown Motors of Holland, MI) replaced the instrument cluster. Now I don't have any shift indicators. Neither the normal (PRND32) or Trip Tronic work. The dealer tells me that the shift indicators are not there in the replacement units. VW customer service is of no help. Does any one have an answer?? |
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Replying to: mistypoint (Jan 25, 2007 8:00 am) I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms: 1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function 2. Power seats work but the memories do not function. 3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key 4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display 5. Neither key-fob remotes function. 6. Power door locks do not work. 7. Power windows do not work. 8. Power mirrors do not work. 9. No Air-Conditioning. 10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F) 11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself) 12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function). 13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work. 14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command. 15. Horn doesn’t work. 16. Clock doesn’t keep time 17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening 18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds) 19. sunroof inop I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help?
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Replying to: dp5010 (Nov 21, 2006 12:06 pm) I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms: 1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function 2. Power seats work but the memories do not function. 3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key 4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display 5. Neither key-fob remotes function. 6. Power door locks do not work. 7. Power windows do not work. 8. Power mirrors do not work. 9. No Air-Conditioning. 10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F) 11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself) 12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function). 13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work. 14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command. 15. Horn doesn’t work. 16. Clock doesn’t keep time 17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening 18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds) 19. sunroof inop I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help? |
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Replying to: vw27278 (Aug 10, 2006 5:13 am) I have an electrical “Bug” with the following symptoms: 1. Fuel gauge does not work (i.e. indicates “empty”) and as a result the trip computer “Miles to Empty” does not function 2. Power seats work but the memories do not function. 3. Radio works but does not turn off with the key 4. No indication of Audio system status in the top of Driver Display 5. Neither key-fob remotes function. 6. Power door locks do not work. 7. Power windows do not work. 8. Power mirrors do not work. 9. No Air-Conditioning. 10. No Temperature input to Auto A/C (Indicates °C not °F) 11. Trip Odometer in Speedometer doesn’t work (resets itself) 12. Trunk Release does not work (fuel door release does function). 13. Main dashboard lights work but all auxiliary lights (center console, radio, door switches, steering wheel lights, etc.) do not work. 14. Auto-Transmission works but when it is placed in manual, transmission doesn’t shift on command. 15. Horn doesn’t work. 16. Clock doesn’t keep time 17. Interior lights do not come on with door opening 18. Dashboard gauges all go to zero (Intermittent Problem-two occurrences, lasting seconds) 19. sunroof inop I went to the dealer,paid 400 in check out fees, there tech said he needs more time, the dealer said that a connection for the buss is broke some were in the car? and possible a ccu module is bad, I pulled the car out they wanted extra 700 to looking? need some help?
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Replying to: mangup1 (Feb 04, 2007 7:51 pm) 
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Replying to: shipo (Feb 04, 2007 7:56 pm)
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