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Sedans Volkswagen Passat Volkswagen Passat Fuse and Electrical Problems
291 messages, Last post on Nov 03, 2009 at 6:28 PM
You are in the Volkswagen Passat Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
I have a 2001 passat gls,,,the keys didn't work to turn motor, or the power windows, sun roof and remote door locks don't work either. Took it to dealer found out wet ccm, went to junkyard found matching one in excellent condition, plugged it in everything works except power windows and remote door locks,,, you can hear a clicking noise in any window that you attempt to open , but thats it, just a clicking noise in the circuit board in each power window module. any ideas or suggestions,,,,,,,boy what a crappy design flaw by VW
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I am amazed. I have been unable to find a Passat in a junkyard anywhere. Can you tell me where this gold mine is? I need some parts for a 2000.
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Replying to: thomas28 (Feb 22, 2008 2:31 pm) 350 N Main St Brooklyn, IN 46111 Phone: (317) 831-2627 They have a large selection of Volkswagens |
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Replying to: sadvw (Feb 01, 2008 5:31 pm)
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Replying to: bill_ing (Feb 26, 2008 12:42 am)
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Hello: I have a 2002 Passat GLS and I have been having some electrical problems. 1st Problem: The #14 Fuse has blown now 3 times in the last 6 months and I don't know why. It seems to happen whenever I use my key fob to either open the trunk or unlock all the doors. The car will not start when that fuse is blown. Has this happened to anyone else and if so what did you do to fix the problem? 2nd Problem: My radio will not turn off even after the car has been shut off and the key removed from the ignition. I don't know if it stems from maybe having a wrong fuse somewhere or if it is something unrelated to the fuses at all. Has this happed to anyone else out there and if so how did you fix the problem? 3rd Question: Is there some where I can go to figure out the proper amp fuse needed for each location. I want to make sure I am not using to high or to low of a fuse. Thank you for your help in advance.
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Replying to: jacree (Mar 13, 2008 7:32 am) Fuse 14 is the comfort system. You probably have a short in it somewhere. One thing I would attempt to rule out is water intrusion in the passenger compartment, on the driver's side. The Comfort Control Module (CCM) is located on the floor under the driver's seat in a box. See if the carpeting under the driver's side feels damp. Also, check under the hood in the cowling for the recent presence of water. |
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My mechanic and I are stumped with power windows, door locks, interior lights, right side mirror motor, remote keyless entry failures and excessive battery drain when the car is shut off. After many weeks and $$ spent on diagnostics and even a new CCM to no avail, I did analyze current drain by pulling each fuse, and am finding erratic current readings that seem to be localized in the fuse #14 circuit -- like others of you. Is there no common -- magic bullet-like -- knowledge out there for fixing these terrible electrical problems in driver's door (or not) on these wonderful cars? I am now reduced to disconnecting or trickle charging the battery at night, and driving the car with all of these electrical (Maxwell's?) demons still running around....Help! |
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2003 Passat 1.8T Wagon (HomeLink) You cannot imagine my elation at solving this riddle. (or how strangely powerful this makes me feel...) I saw a post on some other site indicating a fix to the dreaded HomeLink - Dead Steering Wheel controls - fuse 5 issue. It happens because the wires coming out of the sun visor stalk get smushed and the housings get torn after repeated use (or bad install i'd guess) This causes a short. This short blows fuse 5 and kills all it's accouterments (steering wheel radio controls, cruise control, homelink, horn). So, you'll need: a very small flat head screwdriver (like to fix glasses) a medium sized phillips head screwdriver some electrical tape a six pack of good beer to celebrate with Where the driver's sun visor base connects to the ceiling is a small (8mm) circular disc. Pry it off with your tiny flat head. This hides the medium sized phillips screw that connects the visor base to the body of the car. When you have that screw out, the base of the visor will sort of hinge out of the ceiling (not enough to help though). You'll need to carefully work this thing out of the ceiling - it's about an inch long (don't pull on the visor because you'll break something) pull and rock the base out of the ceiling, it takes a bit to do this. Eventually the whole thing will hinge out and pull out of the ceiling. There is a wire connection now visible between your visor (in your hand) and the wires coming out of the ceiling. Disconnect this. Put a new 10A fuse in socket 5. Turn the key and see if it doesn't blow. I was stunned. It worked for me. Obviously, there may be additional reasons for fuse 5 blowing, but this was mine. Now you can re-wrap the wires coming out of the visor base with the electrical tape. (at least this was where mine were rubbed raw) Reconnect the wire connection, shove it back into the ceiling. Put the visor base back in place, replace the screw you took out. Replace the little plastic disc. You're done. Took me 15 minutes, and I'm on beer 4. The wife's wondering why I keep yelling "WHOOP!" at the top of my lungs. I really hope this helps somebody out there.
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