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Ford Windstar Problems - READ ONLY

2608 messages,  Last post on Oct 27, 2006 at 8:51 PM

You are in the Ford Windstar Forum.

What is this discussion about? Ford Windstar, Van

Messages Page 168 of 262

#1666 of 2608 1995 & 2000 Windstar by jcbear99

Apr 15, 2005 (12:44 pm)

I had a 1995 Windstar. Blew THREE headgasket then Ford bought it back only if we bought another Ford. Bought 2000 Windstar 7/00 and since have had the following problems: stereo speakers at 1000 miles, rack and pinion at 30,000, minor head on fender bender(20mph) with no air bag deployment, and on 4/13/05 at 67,000 the transmission went out. i am no longer a loyal Ford owner. I will get rid of the van and by another brand of van.
 
jcbear99

#1667 of 2608 Re: Transmission Problem? [timberlake] by wijoco

Apr 16, 2005 (2:18 pm)

Replying to: timberlake (Apr 14, 2005 9:48 am)
My course of action would be to have the flush service done at a Ford dealer. Hopefully the shudder will disappear. But you may be looking at torque converter replacement down the road. Not a good track record in the Windstars.

#1668 of 2608 Re: popping when turning on 99 Windstar [mossfive] by wrestler

Apr 16, 2005 (7:28 pm)

Replying to: mossfive (Apr 10, 2005 8:03 pm)
On the front of your subframe are two big washer-looking things with rubber bushings inside them...these are the torsion bar bushings. The center is occupied by a steel bushing (tube) that fits permanently inside. These are twisting and creaking and popping everytime the front suspension articulates. You must have these spot welded to the frame to stabilize them or they will make a larger hole created by wear. They are NOT supposed to move with the front end bouncing.
 
I think once you secure them, the popping and creeking will go away. I have a '96 that was doing that and spotted that problem...ten dollar spot welding and no more problems with it, at even 230,000 MILES!

#1669 of 2608 Transmission stays in 2nd gear when warmed up. by kgregg1

Apr 18, 2005 (5:08 am)

98' Windstar. Noticed in winter after a long drive that transmission would start hunting for gear. Now that the weather has warmed the pattern is predictable. The warmer the day the sooner the transmission begins to hunt and then stays in 2nd gear. It will downshift to first when coming to a stop but will upshift only as far as second. This may be coincidental, but the cruise control will no longer engage either. Engine is operating fine. 101K miles.
 
There are no indicator lights on. The transmission maintenance has always been according to the owners manual. Earlier message mentioned the throttle position sensor however I would expect the engine to be acting up as well.
 
Replies will be appreciated.

#1670 of 2608 Re: Interior lights stay on [alcan] by istella

Apr 18, 2005 (1:02 pm)

Replying to: alcan (Apr 10, 2005 3:01 am)
How do you get rid of the problem? My driver door (LX 2000 - just bought it) occasionally pops out of its locked position, and my door open red indicator is always on on the dash board. I've had it go out once only. My lights are always on because the computer thinks my door is open. Any mechanical adjustments to be made to the latching mechanism?

#1671 of 2608 Re: bk3187: Deadstar [wijoco] by istella

Apr 18, 2005 (1:16 pm)

Replying to: wijoco (Aug 17, 2003 8:16 am)
I'm totally non-mechanical. What is the door switch? And how do you adjust the door to strike the switch better?

#1672 of 2608 Need desperate help!!!! by windstardown

Apr 18, 2005 (3:03 pm)

Replying to: KarenS (Apr 17, 2000 7:19 pm)
Just barely got home, transmission fluid leaking, just added 1.5 qt of 5-30 oil due to it being low and ready for an oil change on Wend (that is if it didn't die today), about 14 miles from home, the van refused to have any pick up, added 1 qt of trans fluid to it too) had a wierd burning rubber smell but thought it was possible road repair in the area, back of van coated in a light film of oil like someone sprayed it on it, full tank of gas, but by the 5th mile from home the overdrive light started flashing and the car started to not shift or want to keep accelerating. Got it home, it poured trans fluid (which it has done in the past but not the acceleration deceleration thing), HELP! I am unemployed and no income coming in, did the van just give up the ghost or what???? It is a 1996, had cylinder work and new water pump and thermostat put in last year. it used to be a construction vehicle, had extremely low mileage on it when we got it but could the engine have been burned out due to what it could have been used for in the past owner?????
 
 

#1673 of 2608 AC in back gets cold but air in front does not by abegearig

Apr 18, 2005 (3:50 pm)

Replying to: KarenS (Apr 17, 2000 7:19 pm)
98 Windstar LX 3.8 - rear gets cold but front does not.
 
I've also noticed at idle when only the front AC is turned on, the compressor keeps engaging and disengaging making a clicking sound every time it kicks on again.
It comes on for about 5 to 10 seconds and then disengages again, it repeats this.
Unless the rear AC is turned on, when the rear is turned on as well, the compressor keeps running and does not turn off and on???
 
Even when the rear is on the front air does not get cold, but the rear still gets cold???
 
Any one have any idea why the front wont get cold and why the compressor won't stay engaged when the rear is not on???

#1674 of 2608 Re: Transmission stays in 2nd gear when warmed up. [kgregg1] by cperreault

Apr 18, 2005 (4:40 pm)

Replying to: kgregg1 (Apr 18, 2005 5:08 am)
I got my '98 Windstar (105K mi) cheap, cheap, cheap, from someone who was told she needed a new transmission for the same problem. My husband did some networking with other car repair people and our fix was relatively painless. We replaced a transmission sensor, Ford part number F5DZ*7F293*BA, for about $55 plus one hour of labor. I believe it is on top of the transmission. There is an problem with rough shifting from first to second if I've driven more than an hour, but I'm unsure if it is related or a separate issue. Good luck!

#1675 of 2608 Re: Need Door Lock Actuator Advise [dbogey1] by ellspie

Apr 18, 2005 (9:38 pm)

Replying to: dbogey1 (Apr 15, 2005 5:39 am)
First thing you need to do is find and remove all the screws(2 buy the pull handle & 3 or 4 at the bottom of the panel).On the opening handle you need a flat head(slotted)screw driver and gently but not to gently pry around the insert that sits around and behind the handle.Also good to have is a door panel tool,you'll need this to remove the little black panel on the top right corner of the door panel.Once you do all this grab the bottom of the panel and pull up and then away from the door.As far as the actuator goes have a good look at how it works and see if you can see a little yellow rubber like grommet or ring by the central mechanism(where everything joins together to make the lock work).Try removing this and spray some silicone spray on all the moving parts.Hope this helps.

Messages Page 168 of 262

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