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SUVs Toyota 4Runner Toyota 4Runner Towing
85 messages, Last post on Nov 24, 2009 at 7:59 AM
You are in the Toyota 4Runner Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: chuck1 (Sep 12, 2007 7:23 am)
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Replying to: koolraul (Oct 04, 2007 8:49 pm) I guess if it was a real steep hill, I could down shift further. |
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Replying to: newdavidq (Sep 19, 2007 5:11 pm) I have a new 2007 SR5 4Runner and has a receiver socket for trailer. I was looking at the wiring harness and saw two of them, one is black and flat the other one is white and a little bit round. Both wirings are connected to the receiver socket. Is the harness you're talking the black one? Do I just have to disconnect it and use the (female) portion to connect my boat trailer? My trailer wiring has the typical, green, yellow, brown and white wires. I'm just a little bit afraid of disconnecting the harness in my 4R. Would appreciate your help. Thanks. Raul
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Replying to: koolraul (Oct 12, 2007 11:08 am) Travel trailers typically have a 7 pin round connector. Apparently your 4 runner is equipped to handle either. All you have to do is to Plug your trailer into whichever connector on your 4Runner matches the trailer connector. Generally the 7 pin round connector will have a flap that swings opens to make the pins accessible. The 4 pin connector typically has a plastic cover that pulls off to expose the pins. They are both designed so that you can't make a mistake while plugging in. Kip
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Replying to: kipk (Oct 13, 2007 3:44 am) Just got a 7-pin to 4-pin connector from my 4Runner to my boat trailer from my Toyota dealer yesterday. Haven't hooked the trailer yet but this should work fine. Thanks a lot for your response. Raul |
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Greetings. This is a good thread. I am getting a 20' Haulmark Thrifty Car Hauler, and it sounds like I should be ok with what I've read. I have got a 2005 SR5 4WD with the V-6. I'm replacing the factory hitch with a weight distributing one (bolts to the frame on each side instead of the rear cross member), and am also getting an Equi-li-zer weight distribution hitch and a Prodigy Brake Controller. With the car in the trailer it's about 4200 pounds. The only question I have, is the trailer manufacturer can add 6" or 12" to the tongue, which he said makes it easier to turn. With the Equili-zer, I think I get that extra foot anyway, right? Also, from what I read it sounds like I don't want to be very long with the total trailer length. So do I need the extra tongue length or not? If not, it saves me about $100.  Thanks for any feedback.
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Replying to: jlabrie (Oct 28, 2007 7:58 am) Good thing you are going to replace the factory hitch. I have read on several other boards that the V6 hitches are not built for a WD hitch setup. Also, I have read where the later model 4Runners with the V8 hitch can fit no-problem on the V6 model. Those are made for a WD-hitch setup. Also, remember your tongue weight (My 05 I believe 750 pounds). Good choice on he Prodigy brake controller, they are most highly rated! Good luck!
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Replying to: chuck1 (Oct 28, 2007 3:16 pm) I got my new WD hitch (like the one used on the V-8 4Runners) and installed it yesterday. So when I was installing I ran into a few challenges. First, the factory hitch - unless you remove the bumper cover - is a pain to remove. There are 4 bolts that are behind the cover which give you very little room in which to operate - like 15 degrees or so. Takes forever to remove these 4 bolts. That just took patience (and tired arms) to overcome. I ran into two other issues. One is the electrical connection - is there a new bracket to use or a longer pigtail from Toyota that I need? Right now the thing just wants to hang there, and it just doesn't look finished to me. The second is on the right side where the hitch mounts in its frontmost points, the tailpipe is in the way. How do I move the tailpipe so I can slip the 2 frontmost bolts into their threaded holes? The tailpipe is hanging on a rubber piece, but I didn't see how to remove it without breaking anything (which is what I usually do). Any suggestions? Thanks, John
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Replying to: jlabrie (Nov 05, 2007 9:21 am) By the way, I don't recommend buying a Curt hitch if you ever do this, because while the hitch is really well made they forgot to create a place or bracket to which the 7-round connector would attach. I was able to attach the stock Toyota bracket to the frame after installing the Curt hitch, but I couldn't attach the connector to the bracket using the two holes/screws designed for that purpose because the hitch was in the way of the connector. So I zip-tied the connector to the bracket through two holes on either side of the connector, leaving about an inch of slack to allow clearance for the connector hood. It actually works just fine, but it's not what you would expect when buying a new hitch. Get a Draw-Tite or a Hidden Hitch instead.
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Replying to: jlabrie (Nov 13, 2007 5:41 pm) I was advised (by other froums) that this could cause extra electrical resistance and problems with my brake controller. This never happened and it's been over two years. I do wonder though if I ever get caught in the rain if it would be problematic. So I might (one day) go down to Autozone and buy some of that "electrical conducting grease" and take apart the extension and grease the leads. Happy Camping!
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