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How Do I replace power window regulator on 2004 Rendezvous?

99 messages, Last post on Sep 18, 2009 at 7:09 AM
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Replying to: aceisastud (Jul 08, 2007 2:54 pm)
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Replying to: tonygravato (Jul 08, 2007 4:34 pm) I am going to order the 15286776 & 15286777 for my fiancee's 2003 Rendezvous. I hope this does the trick. They wanted to charge us $500. I may have to do it also on the driver's side passenger window too. Thanks again. |
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Replying to: tonygravato (Jun 15, 2007 6:06 am)
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Replying to: thomas001 (Jul 14, 2007 10:54 am) Now for your questions: I went to a technical school and have a diploma in automotive technology, so I feel very comfortable doing a lot of things. I also hate dealer service, because they overcharge more then they should (I was once also a service writer). That being said. If I was you, I would replace the window clips yourself. There has been a lot written here and it is relatively straight forward if you take the time. Now on the wheel bearing, 5 months after mine started to whine, I received the letter stating according to GM that there might be an issue with premature wear. Considering my wife's Rende had over 70K miles on it, it seemed appropriate for the wear (still not a normal occurance) I essentially let it growl for over 10 months till it got real bad (dont recommend it, as all kinds of warning lights go off). The part cost me about approx $150-$180, it was an aftermarket part from an auto parts store. The unit comes with the ABS sensor ring. Once you jack and properly support truck on a flat surface, remove affected wheel. remove brake caliper, and mounting bracket, remove rotor. You will have to get a 24mm socket(? not quite sure of size, as I am not home so cant see what socket size is) and remove hub to axle bolt. I had use of an electric impact gun which made it easy, Otherwise a large breaker bar and a pipe over it (for leverage) should do it. Now look behind the hub, take something and mark the hub (yellow tire pencil or some white out, just mark so you can realign gasket and strut assembly), the metal gasket position (Gasket goes in one way, and if you put back incorrectly it will grind against rotor) Now turn your attention to behind the assembly there are 3 bolts, one is really easy to remove, one is somewhat easy (can be a little tight) and one is a royal pain (but not hard) I recommend you go to Sears and invest in good sockets because if they are worn it can make this task a little hard) the bolt in question is at a 12:00 o'clock position, but it is tight against the bottom of strut and axle. You have to put a small extension on it. If it does not turn with reasonable force, you may have to have somebody hold a small propane torch (the plumbing kind) and heat the area from the outside (facing out side) for about 7-10 minutes and then try removing it again (it should come out easy, my bolt was frozen) disconnect the ABS sensor ring (and I believe there is a bracket you have to unscrew as well holding the sensor ring pig tail). The hub is unbolted, now the fun stuff. Take a hammer and tap (a little hard) around the outside of hub assemble ( it is triangular in shape) till you see it starting to separate. Do not try and pry, you do not want to nick the machined surfaces. Keep hammering. Better yet is to use a slide hammer to remove it. Once hub is removed inspect where hub goes into strut/spindle, clean it out. Take new assembly feed the sensor ring pig tail through, make sure gasket is aligned properly with marks you made earlier and insert hub in. It should go in tight. and just use a hammer and a block of wood to tap it back in. Get very flush and all aligned. Now bolt in the back. After that is done, bolt the axle bolt back in. Make sure to plug the sensor ring connector in and make sure everything is re attached. Put the rotor back on, and then, the mounting brackets and the brake caliper. Put the wheel back on and tighten lug nuts, lower truck back on to ground, start truck AND PUMP BRAKES ABOUT 6 to 10 TIMES TO MAKE SURE THE BRAKES ARE SEATED PROPERLY. BRAKE PEDAL SHOULD APPEAR FIRM. Take for test drive, whining noise should be gone, test brakes to makes sure they are ok. After test drive recheck wheel lug nuts to make sure they are tight. |
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the driver's side window on my 2002 rendezous was working albeit very slowly. then one day i heared something crack and the window stopped in the up position. i pulled off the door jam to find a metal piece with a black rubber thing that looks like the part that the window rests in. i did find a plastic piece that snapped off inside the door. was this one of the plastic clips? its hard for me to tell b/c i don't know what i'm looking at. right now the window is still in the up position, the motor works, and i have a metal arm piece with a black rubber piece sitting on my desk...what needs to be replaced? is it one of the clips that snapped? thanks for the help.
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Replying to: crdandridge (Jul 21, 2007 3:07 pm) |
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Well guys, I too had the same problem BUT when i fixed mine i took pics! I hope this page helps anyone in the future as i had no clue how the clips even attached to the regulator before i took it out and studied it. Here ya go.... Buick Rendezvous Window Regulator Installation Page I added the part numbers and links at the bottom of the page. Have Fun! |
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Replying to: teamneon (Jul 30, 2007 4:52 am) I think in the future I may do that, so I can help some one else. KUDOS !! |
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thanks for the links and post! my dealer wanted $330 - and that was with me having already taken off the door panel... i declined and they charged me $46 for 1/2 hr of diagnosis. so with me ordering the plastic clips, it will cost a total of $100!! heck, i registered just to thank you guys. i also have a jeep wrangler, but i have part #s, and repair books - but for buicks, i cant find them. anyone have a copy of a buick rendezvous parts cd? |
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Replying to: teamneon (Jul 30, 2007 4:52 am)
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