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Hybrid Vehicles Toyota Camry Hybrid Toyota Camry Hybrid Driving Tips & Tricks
228 messages, Last post on Jul 20, 2009 at 9:37 AM
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I have "reverse" calculated that my "indicated" lifetime tank average would be 39.54 mpg. My current measured actual is 38.69. This is after 21 tanks (and about 8400 miles), each time I filled up by letting the pump kick off then squeezing two times to try to assure I topped off at as close to the same level as possible. (I don't top all the way off, that's not good for the environment or your FE) These numbers are actually fairly close. HOWEVER, if you click on my milage link on GreenHybrid,com and then hold your mouse over "more" on my tank information I have listed the indicated tank reading with each tank. As you can see several are very close and a few are as much as 2 mpg different, and not always on the same side of error. I wish I could figure out why it varies. I can't explain it but I know that last week I was disappointed with my 39.8 mpg performance on my trip but only because the TCH gage was indicating 42 mpg. Just thought I'd pass this info along as it's a question that's came up several times and because 1) I've got so many tank readings to show the effect over time, 2) I've tried to be consistant in the filling procedure, and 3) because I've kept track of all my indicated readings and was able to "reverse" calculate what my overall indicated would have been had I measured it from the start of ownership. |
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If you're new and notice your trip computer shows that you have a range of say 550 to 570 miles on your tank (rather than the 600+ you thought you should get), be aware that there is about a 3 gallon reserve. If you have the NAV system and you get your tank to "E" mark on the gas gage and "0" cruising range on the NAV screen, several posters, myself included have only been able to get 14.5 to 15 gallons in the tank at this point. At least two posters have run their tanks to where the car was actually empty (no actual gas). Don't do that, it's not recommended by Toyota and it's not good for your car (the system should shut down soon after the gas tank is empty_you can't run this on electric alone). Others have tested this and you don't need to chance being stranded or screwing up your car to find this out. I would recommend just once for you to take your tank to the "0" mark (don't do this in the desert) and fill it up so that you will have the knowledge and confidence as to what reserve you have. Most all of us will be able to drive 90 to 120 miles once the tank shows empty.
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Replying to: wvgasguy (Aug 10, 2006 5:58 pm) Lots of reading ahead! |
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| When I can anticipate several blocks in advance that I am going to have to stop, I appear to have a choice as to what to do. I'd like to get opinions as to which practice has the greater impact on FE. One choice is to let the car coast (glide?) and as I approach my stop I would start applying the breaks with normal pressure. Another is to ever so slightly begin applying breaking pressure as far away as I can anticipate that I am going to stop. Does that gain me additional charging of the battery because I am charging the batery from coasting AND braking over a longer period of time? | |
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Replying to: johnmcneely (Aug 10, 2006 7:26 pm) As far as the regenerative braking, the link I gave above has a graph that may show some insight to this if you can understand it (I didn't study it). My understanding is that UNDER about 12 mph the regenerative braking does not supply significant charging. Applying the brakes lightly, if you are not in traffic or don't mind slowing is good down to the 12 mph range. However you would not want to apply the brakes for a long distance (a couple of blocks) and then find that you have to go to EV mode to get to the stop sign. That would use up any charge you just received from the braking. Coasting in most instances, especially if you do it well in advance of your stop will provide significant charging as well as not use gas. ANYTIME your foot is not on the throttle you are charging the battery.
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ANOTHER TIP: Most of you know this BUT you do have to physically lift your foot and let off of the throttle to achieve maximum battery support. Most of us are used to resting our foot on the throttle and always having some pressure on the throttle when driving a regular ICE car. If you have even the slightest pressure on the throttle the regen won't be charging the battery. This practice has to become a habit with the hybrid for best FE. Look at your instant FE gage on the dash as you drive and you'll catch yourself in most situations applying significantly more throttle than is needed to maintain speed. Many times I have pulled out onto the road (55 mph rural highway) and be accelerating to look down and see that I'm getting an instant read out of 20 to 25. (I still have my foot pressure on the throttle). I'll immediately let off, allowing the FE gage to drop to E mode (if I'm under 41 mph) or to the 60 mpg mark (if over 41 mph). Within an instant I gently apply the throttle (it's a feather touch) and I will be able to maintain speed with a reading more near the 35 to 40+ mark. If you are on a slight grade you may notice you can't fully maintain speed. If you're willing to let it drop gradually for say 5mph, you simply speed up and repeat the procedure. This is in the pulse and glide explaination. |
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You'll see many posts where folks say 34 mph or 53 mph are their sweet spots. I've found several and have come to the belief the sweet spot matches up with particular sections of highway, not just the TCH. I have areas where I can go EV all day (at least until the battery has to be charged by the ICE for a brief time). Also I have a route I take on a rural highway where I can drive near 45 mph and achieve 46 mpg for the trip. I've also found on the interste long streches of road where 67 mph gives me excellent results. Point is I think it varies greatly based on your particular "touch" on the throttle and the road you're on. |
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Another interesting thing I've noticed while watching the NAV screen is that there are some sections of road that while they are rolling hills I am still achieving great FE AND topping off my battery. I didn't expect that to happen but what is happening, once up to speed the ICE was propelling the car but there was more hp generated with the ICE that was used to charge the battery. If I gave more pressure to the throttle that battery would start supplying power to the wheels, if I let off too much then it simply went into regen and the car would slow. I would watch the screen and was able to apply just enough pressure to propel the car at the speed I wanted but still apply enough pressure to the throttle to be using the ICE to charge the battery as well. What does this matter? Possibly not much as the computer knows what it's doing. However some posters have wanted to "fool" the system so that as they approached the city driving area they would have a FULL battery charge (in the green). If you had a rural route (or even an uncrowded interstate (?)) such as mine that dumped you into a town or city situation, this would allow you to give up a minimal amount of FE for 4 or 5 miles while enabling you to have a full charge when it came time to EV around town for a while. |
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As a Prius owner, I can tell you that what ever fuel mileage you get now, it will drop by 20% in the winter. Just do not be surprised. In my Prius, I get about 42 mpg commuting in summer, 38 in winter. On the highway I get 55 in summer, 48 in winter.
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Replying to: wvgasguy (Aug 11, 2006 3:21 am) grg
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