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Hybrid Vehicles Toyota Camry Hybrid Toyota Camry Hybrid Driving Tips & Tricks
228 messages, Last post on Jul 20, 2009 at 9:37 AM
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Replying to: primo2 (Aug 11, 2006 6:52 am)
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Replying to: johnmcneely (Aug 10, 2006 7:26 pm) grg
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Replying to: grg (Aug 11, 2006 3:32 pm) I didn't really study the curves but yes I believe the B mode does increase the regen as long as you're NOT accelerating. Only the pedal is "traditional" and pressing the brake pedal does not always apply the "traditional" hydraulic brakes |
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I've seen the Multi-information display (non-nav) show instances of both the engine and motor supplying power to the wheels and this at speeds far above the supposed 42 mph threshhold for the electric motor being involved. I've rarely seen the display showing no power usage at all from either source (and no regen showing either).Is the dual power source an ideal situation or no engine usage at all?
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Replying to: johnmcneely (Aug 11, 2006 9:34 pm) The electric motor can always be involved, even above 41 mph. It's the reason you have a total of 192 hp available ALL the time. If you're doing 70 mph and goose it you get the power from both sources thus the performance of a V6, not just the 4c ICE If the ICE is not providing power then it is either off (below 41 mph) OR it is at idle (1000 rpm) and not using much gas. Now we all know even an idle ICE uses gas and we avoid it while sitting if possible, but think about going 60 mph with your ICE on idle. You're using almost no gas to cover a mile, thus you'll see the instant FE gage register 60 mpg. With the non-nav system there is a mode not shown. There may be times when the ICE is on and it is driving the wheels as well as charging the battery. The "no power" display happens occasionaly but only briefly. You typically have the ICE or Battery supplying power OR the battery being charged. If you ever get a chance to ride a NAV car watch the energy screen and you'll be amazed at how much and how often the modes are changing and all the various ways it changes. The computer does an incredible job and seems to have all the necessary "intellegence" to maximize the system effecently. As far as your question goes, it depends. If you're under 41 mph it's great to run on battery only, however do it long enough and the ICE still has to kick on to charge the system, but only briefly. Above 41 mph it's good when both sources are helping as that means the battery is assisting the ICE and thus you're getting a "boost" in performance without using "extra" gas. |
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Well...except when you're not going to use your car anymore that day. I just learned that I don't have to take the remote out of my pocket or reach into my pocket to feel for the right bottons on the keyless remote to lock and unlock the doors. Not that this was a real problem, but I have a lot of keys on my key ring and it was an effort to ahul them out. What I learned recently is that if you are within 3 feet of the car with the remote on you, the car senses this and the act of pulling on the driver's side door handle simultaneously unlocks and opens the driver's door. If you have a passenger riding with you and they get to the front passenger door first (and the remote is in proximity), their operation of the front passenger door handle unlocks all four doors and opens the passenger door (I haven't tried this yet). I also learned that when I get out of my TCH and close the drivers-side door, I can lock all of the doors without using the keyless remote by pressing the little rubber button on the door handle (the one you peel off if you ever have to use your physical key). Apparently, it has the same affect as pushing the lock button on the remote (locks all doors, issues the confirmation beep and flashes the lights). I don't think that pressing the door-lock toggle switch on the inside of the driver's door has the same affect, especially arming the engine demobilizer circuitry. I feel like a dunce though because it has taken me a month to learn about this convenient feature (smile).
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Replying to: johnmcneely (Aug 12, 2006 9:09 am) |
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While I am usually trying tricks to keep the ICE off whenever possible, I encountered a very different situation recently. I took TCH up and down the roads of San Francisco. Going up Lombard street (with 30 degree incline), the ICE would shut off at stop signs. When I would start moving again, the ICE had to turn on right away to move the car up the incline. I felt that the car was stalling for 1-2 seconds as the ICE was rev-ing up. On flat sections, the electric motor has enough power to move the car while the ICE starts, but not on a steep incline. My other car is an Accord (4-cyl) and it goes up the same street just fine despite the stop signs. Anyone know of a trick to keep the ICE on if required? |
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Replying to: berkeley123 (Aug 12, 2006 12:12 pm) Anyone know of a trick to keep the ICE on if required? I believe the design of the Accord is that the ICE never kicks off. Additionally with the power of the battery system in the Accord I don't believe it's purpose is the same. There is another forum for that. I believe the 1-2 seconds may be due to the way you tried to proceed. If you wanted for what ever reason you could have given it the gas (goosed it) and the ICE would have kicked on sooner. If you tried to pull out slowly then it may have taken what seemd like 1-2 seconds. A lot of the concerns over this is the perception that the car is not really "getting out of the way" until the ICE kicks on. Actually the motor has enormous torque and it will get the car rolling while the ICE is kicking on. Together they work quite well, but since you hear the ICE kicking in I believe it "blinds" you to the actual fact that the car is rolling before it kicks in. It's so seamlessly done that what you hear and sense is not quite what you are actually experiencing. If you have a 30 degree incline I don't believe anyone expects the motor/battery to pull you up that. Did the TCH actually not go up the street "just fine"?
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Replying to: wvgasguy (Aug 12, 2006 1:25 pm) I have 1300 miles on my TCH in 1.5 months, so I am well acquainted with it's behavior. However, this was the first time I took it up such a steep slope, I think the 1-2 seconds stall was real (and not a perception issue). Of course, TCH went up the steep slope just fine once it got moving, with both ICE and electric motor powering as expected in such a situation. Anyway, next time I will give more gas and report the results here
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