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Nissan 300ZX
Nissan 300ZX Care and Maintenance

25 messages, Last post on Jul 21, 2009 at 7:51 PM
You are in the Nissan 300ZX Forum. Your Host is claires
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Replying to: will1972 (Jan 27, 2008 4:39 pm) |
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Hey all - I just traded up an old beat up BMW for an 85 300zx 5 speed (non-turbo) and I love it. It's my daily driver to and from work which is 106 miles round trip and I averaged about 29 mpg at 70mph last week so I was doing the happy dance to find a fun car I like that is economical. That being said it's 23 years old with 156K miles and was treated less than great by it's prior owners. I figured I'd tell you all about an online store i used that had great parts availability and some of the best prices I've found yet - beats autowarehouse and those others I'd been using. I got my front brake disc's, wheel bearings and grease seals - brand new shipped to my house in 3 days for about $100. The place is call (AUTOHAUSAZ.COM). It's a good place to get OEM parts. I also just found an 86 2+2 5 speed for $700 that runs and drives - figure I'll pick that up and restore it. |
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Replying to: therealz (May 02, 2008 12:58 pm) |
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| I bought this car from the original owner who had the car sitting in a barn for 11 years. It has 98,000 miles on it. I want to replace all the belts and hoses. How much should I expect to pay to have this done? BTW, it's a hot car and runs great! | |
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I have recently aquired a 1990 300 ZX 2+2 with 135,000 Miles. It hasn't moved since the year 2000. It has been sitting out doors in a salt air envourment. I am looking for a good price on a complete shop service and some advice on how to procede with the first start up. I am assuming the engine is relatively dry inside. I don't want to cause damage.The battery is dead. After a general cleaning of the engine compartment, my plan is this. 1. Syphon out all the old gass I can. 2. Remove spark plugs. 3. Using an oil can, put some oil in the clyinders. 4. Using Jumper cables, turn the engine over a fiew revolutions to get oil into the cylinders. 5. Put in some new gas in the tank. While the jumper cables are connected determine if the fuel pump is running. If it is, procede to #6 6. Change engine oil and filter. 7. Clean and or change intake filter and air box.. 8. Check to see if there is spark. If so install new more modern and efficient spark plugs. 9. Install a new heavy duty battery. 10. Attempt to start the car and let idol, do not rev the engine. Let it run untill warm. 11. turn off engine. 12. Drain and replace engine coolent. 13. Replace tires. They are dry and have cracked side side walls where the tires had gone flat. 14. Change transmission fluid. 15. After a couple of hundred miles change oil again. 16. go through systems to determine if all systems are functional. ( Repair and or replace parts as needed as plan evolves.) ( Replace engine drive belts.) Then off to the body shop for a paint job. I had a newer Z than this some years ago. I tried using full synthetic engine oil and where it never used oil between changes it started using oil and I had to return to nonsynthetic oil to correct the problem. I am looking for any usefull advise in this reencarnation. Thank you. The Beach Bum |
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Replying to: z32chic (May 06, 2008 3:18 pm)
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I've got a 1987 Nissan 300zx 2+2 all electric car. I love this car to death and have done plenty of maintenance to nurse it back to health from the previous owners. I still need to do body work but everything else is pretty much sound. Digital dash display, steering wheel controls, heated seats, mileage information on dash, automatic climate control, and electric lumbar settings. These cars were just way ahead of their time. But anyway... I'm not sure if anyone's had a similar problem, but me and my Z have been through a lot together, after the car sat around for a fair time while I replaced the motor it fails to start. I've gotten my A/T rebuilt and i bought a motor that was in working condition, that matches, and put the both back in even though it did sit around for about a year during all this tuning and such. To the best of my knowledge there is either something not matching up with the computer that triggers the inhibitor switch, or the security system just doesn't want this new engine. If anyone knows a way to work with the computer that could be explained to me, or anyone who has had a similar problem tell me how they fixed it i would be overjoyed. I'm thinking of just working out the kinks in the wiring that let the security system work if i don't figure something out soon. |
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I'm the original owner of a 1984 300zx turbo with 56k miles. The last time I drove the car, a couple of weeks ago, the rear lights didn't go off when I put the car in the garage and the battery ran down and I had to jump start the car today. Now, the rear lights stay on all of the time. Swith is off, headlights are off but back lights stay on. Rear turn signals are working properly. Does anyone know what may cause this problem. The light switch works fine for turning on front lights. thanks
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Just wondering if the Fuel Injector Connectors 1991 thru 1996 are all the same? I look online and the injector are different but are the connectors from the wiring harness to the injector the same? |
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