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Nissan 300ZX Care and Maintenance

25 messages,  Last post on Jul 21, 2009 at 7:51 PM

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What is this discussion about? Nissan 300ZX, Car Buying, Coupe, Convertible

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#11 of 25 Upgrading turbos for a 90 300zx by therealz May 02, 2008 (1:00 pm)
any suggestions on what type of turbo to upgrade to? im not huge on cars but i love my Z.and am willing to put money into it. just dont know where to start.bassically i just need to keep up with those damn EVO's and STI's. i figure new upgraded turbos should do the trick.
#12 of 25 Sputters like it has no power by z32chic May 06, 2008 (3:18 pm)
I own a 1990 300zx non-turbo its having a hard time starting but it does start. when I give it gas it sputters like it has no power. That's the best way I can explain it. I put new spark plugs in. any suggestions? Replies to this message: joani1 (Aug 11, 2008 11:21 am) itsjoe1 (Jul 21, 2009 7:51 pm)
#13 of 25 Re: 85 nissan 300zx [will1972] by sam87300 Jun 27, 2008 (2:48 pm)
Replying to: will1972 (Jan 27, 2008 4:39 pm) i also hav an 85 300 zx with the same problems did u figure out what was causing these problems mine has all the same problems. thanks for any information u can give me.
#14 of 25 300zx parts store by sudzo77 Jul 08, 2008 (5:36 am)
Hey all - I just traded up an old beat up BMW for an 85 300zx 5 speed (non-turbo) and I love it. It's my daily driver to and from work which is 106 miles round trip and I averaged about 29 mpg at 70mph last week so I was doing the happy dance to find a fun car I like that is economical.   That being said it's 23 years old with 156K miles and was treated less than great by it's prior owners. I figured I'd tell you all about an online store i used that had great parts availability and some of the best prices I've found yet - beats autowarehouse and those others I'd been using.   I got my front brake disc's, wheel bearings and grease seals - brand new shipped to my house in 3 days for about $100. The place is call (AUTOHAUSAZ.COM). It's a good place to get OEM parts.   I also just found an 86 2+2 5 speed for $700 that runs and drives - figure I'll pick that up and restore it.
#15 of 25 Re: Answer to your questions. [therealz] by neoflite Jul 15, 2008 (10:14 am)
Replying to: therealz (May 02, 2008 12:58 pm) Check your valve cover and see if there's oil that has been oozing out and accumulated- if so, this may cause the smell when it's hot, and 1) the easy fix- tighten the valve cover bolts (I believe this requires a hex wrench), then clean the entire area (and monitor it for any subsequent oozing)- and then give it the drive and sniff to see if problem solved; 2) if the oozing was the source of the smell and after cleaning it is still oozing, then it's the more complex job of replacing the gasket; 3) if not 1 and 2, it's something else, keep looking- if the smell is more like a gasoline odor, you had better ensure the fuel injector seals are not leaking, as this can cause an engine fire. Nissan has a factory recall on replacing the injectors/seals
#16 of 25 84 300zx by joani1 Jul 26, 2008 (7:54 am)
I bought this car from the original owner who had the car sitting in a barn for 11 years. It has 98,000 miles on it. I want to replace all the belts and hoses. How much should I expect to pay to have this done? BTW, it's a hot car and runs great!
#17 of 25 OH MY Aching "Z" by beachbum11 Aug 02, 2008 (9:07 pm)
I have recently aquired a 1990 300 ZX 2+2 with 135,000 Miles. It hasn't moved since the year 2000. It has been sitting out doors in a salt air envourment. I am looking for a good price on a complete shop service and some advice on how to procede with the first start up. I am assuming the engine is relatively dry inside. I don't want to cause damage.The battery is dead. After a general cleaning of the engine compartment, my plan is this. 1. Syphon out all the old gass I can. 2. Remove spark plugs. 3. Using an oil can, put some oil in the clyinders. 4. Using Jumper cables, turn the engine over a fiew revolutions to get oil into the cylinders. 5. Put in some new gas in the tank. While the jumper cables are connected determine if the fuel pump is running. If it is, procede to #6 6. Change engine oil and filter. 7. Clean and or change intake filter and air box.. 8. Check to see if there is spark. If so install new more modern and efficient spark plugs. 9. Install a new heavy duty battery. 10. Attempt to start the car and let idol, do not rev the engine. Let it run untill warm. 11. turn off engine. 12. Drain and replace engine coolent. 13. Replace tires. They are dry and have cracked side side walls where the tires had gone flat. 14. Change transmission fluid. 15. After a couple of hundred miles change oil again. 16. go through systems to determine if all systems are functional. ( Repair and or replace parts as needed as plan evolves.) ( Replace engine drive belts.) Then off to the body shop for a paint job.   I had a newer Z than this some years ago. I tried using full synthetic engine oil and where it never used oil between changes it started using oil and I had to return to nonsynthetic oil to correct the problem.   I am looking for any usefull advise in this reencarnation. Thank you. The Beach Bum
#18 of 25 Re: Sputters like it has no power [z32chic] by joani1 Aug 11, 2008 (11:21 am)
Replying to: z32chic (May 06, 2008 3:18 pm) Check your vac lines coming off the fuel pump. Replies to this message: itsjoe1 (Jul 21, 2009 7:51 pm)
#19 of 25 Ignition or Security problem by docileloki Aug 16, 2008 (11:02 am)
I've got a 1987 Nissan 300zx 2+2 all electric car. I love this car to death and have done plenty of maintenance to nurse it back to health from the previous owners. I still need to do body work but everything else is pretty much sound. Digital dash display, steering wheel controls, heated seats, mileage information on dash, automatic climate control, and electric lumbar settings. These cars were just way ahead of their time. But anyway...   I'm not sure if anyone's had a similar problem, but me and my Z have been through a lot together, after the car sat around for a fair time while I replaced the motor it fails to start. I've gotten my A/T rebuilt and i bought a motor that was in working condition, that matches, and put the both back in even though it did sit around for about a year during all this tuning and such. To the best of my knowledge there is either something not matching up with the computer that triggers the inhibitor switch, or the security system just doesn't want this new engine. If anyone knows a way to work with the computer that could be explained to me, or anyone who has had a similar problem tell me how they fixed it i would be overjoyed. I'm thinking of just working out the kinks in the wiring that let the security system work if i don't figure something out soon.

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