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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

430 messages,  Last post on Mar 21, 2013 at 4:36 AM

You are in the Mitsubishi Outlander Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mitsubishi Outlander, SUV

    
 
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Messages Page 41 of 43

#400 of 430 Re: 2012 Outlander GT (S-AWC) no strut tower bar? [fastgst] by batman47

Sep 07, 2012 (3:07 am)

Replying to: fastgst (Sep 05, 2012 10:24 am)
You may be right, however I do not think that Mitsubishi seeks to save money with the GT otherwise it will offer to customers a strut option to order. It does not.
 
The stronger sway opinion was given to me by a dealer without elaborating. However I should mention that my Lexus SC300 was sold to me long ago without a strut tower bar in spite of the fact that these models were high speed performance. The Toyota Supra which is super high speed performance has indeed a strut fitted in it.
 
I have tried my GT 2012 in the Vancouver Islands (zigzag roads) in rain at high speed and the car responded as expected. Perhaps Mitsubishi engineers found out that a strut is not necessary bearing in mind that the GT 4x4 has an active front differential that may conflict with the strut assemblage. Perhaps this is the main reason that a strut is not an option for the 2012 Outlander GT. However these are just opinions.

#401 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [fastgst] by batman47

Sep 07, 2012 (3:10 am)

Replying to: fastgst (Sep 05, 2012 11:25 am)
I have used oil filter# MZ690072 in my previous Outlander XLS and in my 2010 GT (not always). However, that filter is recommended for the Outlander 2.0L & 2.4L.
 
 With regard to the filter wrench MB991396-1, this will ease the Japanese filter but not the US filter in spite, as you said; the length is the same (68 mm). The filter MB991396-1 is 1 or 2 mm wider which make it inoperative to ease the US oil filter. The oil filter wrench for the US filter has part# MB991396 (without the extension -1).
 
As a matter of fact the Japanese filter fits neatly on the mouth of the filter cavity, so there is no space for accumulation of dirt. However, the 80 mm of the oil filter cavity that sticks out could result in the accumulation of dirt. As a matter of fact every time you change a filter a clean cloth must be used to wipe the mouth thoroughly before putting in a new filter.
 
The 80 mm oil filter needs to be adjusted all its length, and also be torque appropriately. The first time I did this, without proper fitting, oil flushed out everywhere under the car when the engine was switched on. The final result was a mess.

#402 of 430 Wheel Alignment by jonox

Sep 28, 2012 (8:26 pm)

Was at the dealership today for oil and filter change on my 2010 ES. Tech advised the vehicle required a four wheel alignment for $99.00 due to uneven tire wear. I had also noticed some looseness in the steering which tightened right up after the re-alignment was completed.
I'm wondering if others have had alignment issues this soon. The vehicle has low milage and is driven exclusively on paved highway although perhaps the occasional pothole might throw the alignement out.
 
Also looked at a brand new 2013 Outlander LS which they had recently received as a management vehicle marked as not for resale. It was the same as a 2012. I queried the supposed 2013 redesign and hi-bred models and it was suggested these might be introduced mid 2013 for the 2014 model year.

#403 of 430 Re: Wheel Alignment [jonox] by fushigi

Sep 29, 2012 (5:19 am)

Replying to: jonox (Sep 28, 2012 8:26 pm)
As another low mileage driver (my '10 Outlander GT has almost 26K miles) I've not noticed any issues with the steering or alignment. All I've really done maintenance-wise is the 6-month oil change (always under the mileage allotment) and tire rotation roughly every 7500 miles. I did the 2 year/30K service this past June as the car was 2.5 years old but still under 30K miles; I considered that a reasonable compromise. Oh, and around 16 or 18K miles I replaced the engine air filter with a K&N which I use to keep air filter costs down over the life of the car.
 
I had heard that the redesigned Outlander would hit the US as a 2014 but might hit other markets as a 2013. I'm OK with that as I don't really have plan on trading in mine with such low miles. And I'm not really sold yet on the redesign's styling; I will need to see it in person. But I am excited about the eventual debut of a plug-in hybrid version if Mitsu can keep the costs reasonable.

#405 of 430 Rusty Engine in used Outlander by watchyman

Oct 01, 2012 (8:33 pm)

Greetings!
I'm thinking of buying a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander BUT it has some corrosion on the engine compartment. I checked the undercarriage and it looked fine.
What do you guys think, a deal breaker?
 
Thanks!!

#406 of 430 Re: Rusty Engine in used Outlander [watchyman] by solowalker

Oct 02, 2012 (8:09 pm)

Replying to: watchyman (Oct 01, 2012 8:33 pm)
I would drive it to a Mitsu Dealer to see if the warranty for corrosion is still in effect...They will be able to tell you if the car was flooded...
 
What's the price....Mileage....condition...?
Is it a private party sale or used car lot sale...?

#407 of 430 Re: Wheel Alignment [jonox] by batman47

Oct 05, 2012 (3:57 am)

Replying to: jonox (Sep 28, 2012 8:26 pm)
The Outlander as well as any car comes from factory with their 4 wheel aligned to correspond to standards of the type of car. Alignments are related with angles that receive names like Caster, Camber and Toe-in & Toe-out. The dealer has the standards angle values for your car model.
 
I noted that after a traffic accident my Lexus SC300 was slightly pulling to the right on very flat tarmac road, which gave an indication that, the car may need an alignment. I already had the standards values for this car (i.e. caster, camber, and toe), so I requested the dealer to provide me with the computer printout of the actual angles of the 4-wheels of my car which the dealer did. The dealer must provide you with the computer listing after supposedly the dealer has done the alignments. The latest computer print out must be almost equal to the standard values (that is why you have paid $100). I may say, do not take the technician’s words as fully trustworthy.
 
I have found out, after accompanying my wife to the garage for a change of tires for her car, that the technician called my wife to tell her that petrol filter need to be changed or that one of the wheels does not rotate as it should and the technician suspected something wrong with the calliper.
 
Equally I also observed a young woman with her Audi lifted coming back from this helpful advice of the technician totally distressed. You could see that the woman was pale and become paler when the technician said that all the extras things to do will cost her around $500.
 
I did not take any note about the technician’s advice to my wife because the technician’s findings are presently part of his/her technique to increase the profit of his/her establishment.
 
There is a lot of information in the Internet to go empty handed to a garage to be screwed up by them.
 
With regards to your alignment of your car and the fact that your tires show uneven wear I may say that also the uneven tire wear can be produced because of under or over tire inflation. Buy a tire pressure gauge and check the pressure of your tires every 15-days before you take your car for a ride.
 
With regards to the outlander 2013 I may say that if the car looks similar to the 2012 model then that car is not the brand new Outlander (check Mitsubishi Motor Russia) to have an idea of the external shape of the car or just google the internet for this new model. There is a lot of information about the Outlander 2014 for the USA.

#408 of 430 Re: Rusty Engine in used Outlander [watchyman] by batman47

Oct 05, 2012 (4:34 am)

Replying to: watchyman (Oct 01, 2012 8:33 pm)
It appears that corrosion is a problem with the Outlander that has missed some corrosion prevention treatment from manufacture. However a 2008 Outlander should have the normal corrosion little ones spots somewhere but nothing serious. Most probable this car has been driven on the beach (salted sands) or has been left in storage near the beach without proper protection for months. Also the salt on ice roads is responsible for premature corrosion in the engine bay. If you suspect this is what happens in your car you should use a spray bottle filled with pure water and spray all that part that you suspect salt is involved. If the corrosion has already take hold there is a product used to protect airplanes on air planes carriers (sea). I have used ACF-50 spray to stop corrosion to continue. This product protect for 2-year and it has to be used again to continue protecting your car. I have used this product in my Lexus SC300 engine bay. It does not attack rubber or plastics. The engine compartment of my Lexus looks like new in spite of the fact that it is 16-years old.
 
As a matter of corrosion prevention we should spray the entire engine compartment with 3M dry silicone spray or equivalent after 1-year ownership. Silicone does not attack rubber or metal and may protect your car for 4-6 months.

#409 of 430 Diaqueen ATF-J3 by batman47

Oct 16, 2012 (3:57 am)

Mitsubishi has upgraded its ATF specifications for the Outlander V6 3.0L. It appears that the only ATF suitable for the Outlander 3.0L (2010-2013) is DiaQueen ATF-J3. Below is the Advert for this part:
 
Part # 4031610
 
This is the only transmission fluid for the 2010 - 2013 Mitsubishi Outlander 6 Cylinder Engine with a 6 speed automatic transmission is to use! No equivalent is available from ANY auto parts store!
 
Outlander 2007-2009 V6 3.0L the recommended ATF was DiaQueen ATF-J2.

Messages Page 41 of 43

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