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Mitsubishi Outlander Maintenance and Repair

430 messages,  Last post on Mar 21, 2013 at 4:36 AM

You are in the Mitsubishi Outlander Forum.

What is this discussion about? Mitsubishi Outlander, SUV

    
 
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Messages Page 38 of 43

#371 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [fastgst] by batman47

Jul 28, 2012 (5:59 pm)

Replying to: fastgst (Jul 24, 2012 12:05 am)
In my previous two-Outlander V6 I have used synthetic oil (Mobil 5W-20). Five-quarts of this oil are about $30 container. Because I am not driving on unpaved roads and not doing up/down scramble maneuver battles which require strong engine involvement, I am now using normal engine oil (not synthetic/semi-synthetic) at a price of $15 (container five-quarts-5W-20).
 
My Outlander GT 2012 has at the moment 7,600 miles (I bought it, April 2012). I did the first change of oil at 3,000 miles but I did not change the oil filter. After my return from Halifax (Canada) I will proceed to change the engine oil again + its filter. If I order oil filter in the USA for my car by giving its VIN number I will get a fat filter. The Japanese original oil filter is slim and longer. I did some calculations and the volume of both filters match each other indicating that any of those filters can be used with the Outlander V6. There is also a filter for the Outlander Sport which is slim that also can be fitted to the Outlander V6.
 
For frequents changes of oil at 7,500 miles + filter, I think it is sufficient to use normal oil engine (5W-20). I am now using Castrol GTX 5W-20 Superior Deposit Protection at a price of $16. However any oil brand may do the job.
 
I think that Mitsubishi is magnifying its saving in constructing this car, so I do not think that the Outlander GT will have synthetic oil in its engine. Equally Mitsubishi is saving money by sending to the USA Mitsubishi cars with poor car paint. You may expect cars manufactured by Mercedes, or Audi, or BMW be sold with synthetic oil but I have serious doubts.
 
There is not a clear agreement between experts that synthetic oil is superior to normal oil. In the past I have used synthetic oil because of the requirements of my journeys in isolated areas of the planet, i.e. very hot, very cold weather, dust, and also strong use of the engine power and long journeys at 10-15 miles per hour at the most.

#372 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [batman47] by fushigi

Jul 29, 2012 (6:16 am)

Replying to: batman47 (Jul 28, 2012 5:59 pm)
My maintenance regimen is that I use the manufacturer's suggested oil as long as the car is under warranty. I also change the oil & filter according to the maintenance schedule (6 months/7500 miles).
 
Once the warranty expires I'll switch to synthetic or a synthetic blend and go probably at least 10K miles with no time limit. My current thinking is to go 7500 miles, have the oil tested by a lab, and estimate extended oil life from the lab report. I'm going to guess that full synthetic will be good for at least 12K miles if I don't subject the car to overly harsh conditions. Considering my harshest abuse to the car is probably driving it in Chicago's cold/snowy winters & hot summers and that I rarely go WOT above 5K RPMs, I think that's reasonable.

#373 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [batman47] by fastgst

Jul 30, 2012 (10:20 pm)

Replying to: batman47 (Jul 28, 2012 5:59 pm)
re: saving money: I noticed on the 2012 they took out the strut bar and the motion sensor behind the dome light. Well, I heard the motion sensor will false alarm if you leave the sunroof open anyway. The door handle has also changed from sensing your hand touch (ala Lexus) to now only using the same button to lock/unlock. I heard Mitsu claims this is a safer approach, not sure what the true story behind this one.
 
Can't blame them too much as it is probably to offset the cost of Tsunami damages. They have always have one of the thinner paint job out there for years now.. Mazda also. Mine doesn't look that thin (reasonable clear coat on diamond white) but I have to get a gauge to measure it.
 
However the Outlander MSRP has gone high since the introduction of S-AWC in 2010 and inflation, compared to the original in 2007. Now fully loaded outlanders like mine have a sticker price of $34-$35k.
Granted it has everything that my previous Lexus had except homelink garage opener. I am quite happy with my outtie with the below invoice price I paid.
(Also shopped RAV4, RDX, CR-V, CX-5, OUTBACK.)
 
As to the oil, my practical driving the engine runs mostly 2000 RPM or lower so I think the dino oil would be quite sufficient. However if you really drive in a performance oriented the engine does have a high redline and why not use synthetic oil, 4.5 qt is not going to break the bank.
 
Now if any of you guys know how to take a proper reading on the V6 engine please let me know. I have 1000 miles but I still don't know how to check my oil because the dipstick has oil all over. I think as long as the top hole has oil filled over it should be good.. I think the holes are put there for this purpose.

#374 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [fastgst] by fushigi

Jul 31, 2012 (11:27 am)

Replying to: fastgst (Jul 30, 2012 10:20 pm)
Bummer about the strut bar; I'd probably go after-market for one or order a 2011 bar if those also fit.
 
As to the sensor, I think it's acoustic not motion. On windy days with the sunroof tilted up to vent it would indeed go off; it happened to me a number of times on my '10 GT. And that is a disappointment as venting via the sunroof is a good way to keep the interior heat down on a summer day. Especially since my Outie has the black interior.
 
But I thought it was just doing double-duty with the mics for the Bluetooth interface.
 
If Mitsu goes to a button-press to unlock, they may also be able to use cheaper remotes. Perhaps switch to a passive RFID chip v. the "active" system my '10 has. Consumers should also get longer remote battery life (though the batteries aren't really expensive).
 
I, too, have noticed the price creep. Makes me glad I bought when I did. Still, how much of this will change yet again with the plug-in hybrid 2013 model? I also wonder if the Normal plant will get to build some regular Outlanders v. just the Sport.
 
I'd say I keep mostly under 3K RPMs for reasonable acceleration & cruise anywhere from 1200-2200. 21.2MPG average over 24K miles.

#375 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [fushigi] by rcpax

Jul 31, 2012 (9:32 pm)

Replying to: fushigi (Jul 29, 2012 6:16 am)
I live in NW indiana area and I never go past 3750mi on my oil. Just a personal preference. I can tell when it's closer to 3K that conventional oil gets really dark. Just make sure your oil is up to the job. I started using Mobil 5000, which is only good up to 5K anyway. Actually the reason you're changing oil every so often is not the oil itself but rather the additives in it getting used up. conventional oil at 3 to 3.5K mi is really not that much. I always go by the mileage and not the time, so with my current drive, that means 2-3 oil changes a year, which is really not that bad.

#376 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [rcpax] by fushigi

Aug 01, 2012 (5:28 am)

Replying to: rcpax (Jul 31, 2012 9:32 pm)
I don't think anyone should be concerned about using the manufacturer's recommended service intervals. And it's not just Mitsu. Most (if not all) manufacturers have moved to longer oil service intervals. My wife's '12 Elantra says 7500 miles/12 months, for instance.
 
Other service intervals are getting longer as well. Back in '99 the Mitsu 3L V6 had a 60K timing belt replacement interval; it's now 105K.
 
During warranty I go by time or miles, whichever comes first. Post-warranty I'll go purely by miles. I'm a bit of a stickler for adhering to what's needed to maintain warranty and not giving anyone a good reason to deny a potential claim. I do follow the normal schedule, though, and not the severe. Even though I live in the Chicago suburbs I don't think my driving fits the severe criteria.
 
I'm at 32 months of ownership and am just approaching 25K miles so my changes are averaging time-based so far. Two per year.
 
In other maintenance news my OEM tires are holding up well; they've got enough tread left for the upcoming winter and then some. I rotate the tires on average with every other oil change. At 16K miles I replaced the air filter with a K&N since they're cheaper over the car's lifetime. Not much else other than the added stuff for the 2 year service.

#377 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [fushigi] by steve_ HOST

Aug 01, 2012 (5:39 am)

Replying to: fushigi (Aug 01, 2012 5:28 am)
Most (if not all) manufacturers have moved to longer oil service intervals.
 
They've been doing that at least a decade longer than us over in Europe.
 
You can't tell anything by looking at oil; it's supposed to get dark (often it'll be good and dark within the first 100 miles after an oil change). Get an analysis done if you really think overly frequent oil changes are needed.

#378 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [steve_] by rcpax

Aug 01, 2012 (7:48 am)

Replying to: steve_ (Aug 01, 2012 5:39 am)
I think I just would like to point out what I said earlier, about the protection your oil provides, which is brand dependent.Like I said, Mobil 5000 is only good for 5K mi. So i guess if you want to do 7K oil changes, then you pick an oil that would offer engine protection that long. So what are you guys using? I have tried pennzoil, and just now switched to mobil.

#379 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [rcpax] by steve_ HOST

Aug 01, 2012 (8:05 am)

Replying to: rcpax (Aug 01, 2012 7:48 am)
Sounds like good oil for the CR-V taxis in Barrow Alaska ("severe and low-temperature operating conditions"). Otherwise, why bother? (Mobil Clean 5000)
 
I usually run SuperTech from Walmart or whatever is on sale at NAPA when I do my 7,500 changes on my '99 Quest (175,000 miles). I didn't even use "low temp" oil in the Quest when I lived in Anchorage and the Quest lived outside.
 
(Hey, just ran out to the garage and checked my gas logs. I'm 4,000 miles overdue on the oil change. Again. )

#380 of 430 Re: Factory filled oil [rcpax] by fushigi

Aug 01, 2012 (12:19 pm)

Replying to: rcpax (Aug 01, 2012 7:48 am)
So what are you guys using?
 
Whatever the dealer puts in. In my case that's run-of-the-mill non-synthetic Valvoline. I gave up doing my own maintenance years ago when it got to the point that I couldn't do it for substantially less than the dealer.
 
For the after-warranty oil changes on the '99 Galant (3L V6) I used to have I went with Mobil1 purchased in bulk at Sam's Club. I'd give that to the dealer & let them do the labor & provide the filter. The Galant recommended 3K mile intervals as I recall; once I went Mobil1 I upped that to 5K.
 
Side note: When the dealer resets the oil minder on my trip computer it resets the countdown timer to a fresh 6 months but on the miles countdown it adds 7500 miles. So it says something like 6 months/16,000 miles. Software bug or lazy service tech?

Messages Page 38 of 43

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