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Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

203 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 6:50 PM
You are in the Isuzu Axiom Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Well the Axiom Transmission is pretty good. GM uses the same one in their Cadallic line and other GM cars. It's very reliable. Yes there has been an issue with a side pressure seal, but the problem and solution almost always falls within the 100,000 mile warantee. And if not, it's an inexpensive fix. The transmission is made in France and with a little poking around on the net you can find all of the other vehicles it's used in. I frequently pull a 5' X 8' trailer with up to 2500 lbs of load. REALLY screws up the mileage but the trans takes it all well. I ran through two sets of Goodyear tyres on my Axiom. Both got about 54K and they were the original tyres the car came with (first set). I just put on a set of LEMANS Pathmaker H/T's. They are a discontinued model (I got a great price) P235 65R17. I can't believe the difference they made in the ride and steering is even more effortless. Between the shock changeout and these new tires the Axion is finally riding in an acceptable fasion. Lemans probably still makes this type tyre or one close to it and better yet if you can find a set of discontinued Pathmakers (check the age of the tyre and ask for a BIG discount if they are over 2 years old). Regards Bert |
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It's a 4L30E, used by GM, BMW, Honda and many postal trucks. Check out the 4L30E on the internet. There is tons of people talking about it, and it's fixes. A rebuild kit is available for under $200, and a rebuilt trans for around $1600 with the core deposit. Regards again Bert
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Replying to: bertbcfm (Feb 26, 2009 9:44 am) Thank you. i am also trying to figure out the best trailer hitch to install. Any thoughts? I think the highest it will take is a class 3 but i am not sure..:
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Replying to: jenster373 (Feb 26, 2009 10:42 am) Regards Bert |
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Replying to: jenster373 (Feb 26, 2009 10:42 am) I got the Draw-tite. I don't think it's any different from the hidden hitch ones. http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.eea3cbe/2416 |
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Replying to: tidester (Feb 24, 2009 10:40 pm)
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Replying to: jenster373 (Feb 26, 2009 8:36 am) I suspect that a new unit would set you back about $300, but you can check around on the internet for a lower price from an out-of-state dealer. Good luck! |
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Replying to: bertbcfm (Feb 26, 2009 10:30 am) |
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Replying to: jenster373 (Feb 26, 2009 10:42 am) |
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Replying to: decababy (Mar 02, 2009 2:57 pm) As for the C/E light, if you live in the US, you can take your car to Autozone and one of the sales assistants will hook up a scan tool to your car for free and tell you what the code is that is causing the C/E light to stay on. You can then post the code here for us to comment on, or do your own research on Google. If it turns out to be a code related to the EGR valve, which you said you replaced already, BEFORE you pay to replace it again, be aware that you can remove it and clean it yourself (which fixed my EGR without having to replace it and I have used it for 50K miles since without a problem!). There are two bolts and one connector to get it loose, which is easy. If it has a lot of hard black carbon on it, you can soak it in engine parts cleaner, or some acetone, and use a small wire brush to get the gunk off of it. If that doesnt work, you can always buy a new one, but they are not hard to clean and it seems silly to replace something that CAN be cleaned... the gunky buildup comes from using cheaper brands of gas in my opinion. I have used BP or Shell since with no problems, and the price is only about 1-2 cents more than the really cheapo gas. Hope that helps. |
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