Isuzu Axiom Maintenance and Repair

381 messages,  Last post on Sep 16, 2012 at 5:50 PM

You are in the Isuzu Axiom Forum.

What is this discussion about? Isuzu Axiom, SUV

    
 
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
 
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153

#376 of 381 Stalling by lovemyax

Sep 15, 2012 (5:35 pm)

I'm not sure anyone can help me. No one else seems to be able to help. I love my 2003 Axiom and would love to be driving it again. It has been sitting in my driveway for 8 months now, with no one any closer to fixing it. The problem is when I let off the gas it dies. The check engine light is on and sometimes low power light comes on. We've had it hooked up several times to determine the problem and have replaced everything it said was bad. O2 censor, mass air flow censor and throttle position censor. Still no change. My brother in law said it needed a new computer, so he ordered me one. We put it on but it wouldn't turn over. Excuse me, I should specify that it's a used computer.
 
Yesterday we put the old computer back on and drove it to a mechanic who said he could flash the computer to the car. Wrong. They also couldn't seem to figure out what is wrong with the car. Meanwhile my husband thinks the problem is the key. It's broken and keeps falling apart. I ordered a new one but it won't be in for a few days but my first question is, do you think the key would make the car run bad like this? My thoughts is it wouldn't even start if that was the issue.
 
Apparently there are not many mechanics who are willing to even work on my car. Any sugguestions?
 
Oh and I should mention, the fuel pump was checked, the wiring harness was checked and the intake was checked.

#377 of 381 Re: Check Transmission Light [rdw0372] by axiom068

Sep 16, 2012 (4:46 pm)

Replying to: rdw0372 (Sep 15, 2012 5:18 pm)
Unfortunately in these situations you have to find a mechanic with a Tech 2 scanner with the Isuzu card. You have to look hard but hopefully you'll find one. If you don't mind paying dealer prices, go to isuzu.com and put your zip code in under the owners section and hopefully area dealers that are still doing maintence on isuzu's will pop up. Good Luck.

#378 of 381 Re: Stalling [lovemyax] by axiom068

Sep 16, 2012 (5:03 pm)

Replying to: lovemyax (Sep 15, 2012 5:35 pm)
There are 3 basic things a car needs to run Fuel, air, and spark. I would suggest to perform a compression test on all cylinders, check all vaccum lines with a smoke machine (while you're at it check the EVAP system also), and check the spark on the spark plugs. If all else fails it could be a timing problem or a busted head gasket. In order to truly find out what's going on I suggest finding a mechanic with a Tech 2 scanner with the isuzu card. IF you place your zip code in the owners section of Isuzu.com hopefully they'll be dealers close to you that have the right equipment. The way you are going about this situation is very costly when an hour's diagnostic fee at the dealership is probably all it needs to find the problem. I have personally taken the car to the dealers and had the diagnostics done and then taken the car out and fix it myself. It cheaper than buying a Tech 2 scanner. If you find a mechanic that uses anything other than the Tech 2 scanner with isuzu card, he would most probably only give you just the simple OBDII codes and you won't be able to see the whole picture of the vehicle. Also tell your husband the key is definitely not the issue. In addition I believe the new computer must be synced up with the car and with that you will need the Tech 2 scanner.

#379 of 381 Re: Check Transmission Light [rdw0372] by walk_the_walk2

Sep 16, 2012 (5:14 pm)

Replying to: rdw0372 (Sep 15, 2012 5:18 pm)
I'll try to help. Still have my 2002 Axiom Service Manual (the complete service manual), which may shed some light on your tranny light problem. I will paste excerpts that are related, and then you can figure out which one applies. First thought is that your tranny is getting too hot, and I know that the tranny is cooled by the tranny line from the radiator, so maybe your radiator is not doing its job, or that line is plugged? A new radiator costs $100 uninstalled. If that turns out to be the problem - replace the tranny fluid with synthetic fluid, too, which you should have done at the 40K mark and at the 60K mark, but the manual is not clear on those points.
 
A KEY POINT is whether the Tranny light comes on and STAYS on or is FLASHING:
 
Here are the excerpts that may apply:
 
"ATF Warning Lamp
The ATF warning lamp will be constantly on (not flashing)
if the transmission oil temperature is above 145C (293F)."
 
"When the “CHECK TRANS” indicator is flashing, it
indicates that a problem related to the transmission, the
Powertrain Control Module (PCM), or the vehicle harness
has occurred.
The system is now operating in a “BACKUP MODE”
where the risk of further damaging the transmission has
been reduced. The vehicle may be shifted manually.
If the initial problem is intermittent or seldom, switching
the engine OFF/ON might allow normal operation again
until the problem reoccurs.
 
If, during the test drive, the “CHECK TRANS” lamp
comes on, use the scan tool to check for trouble
codes."
 
What this means is TRANNY LIGHT COMES ON STEADY (Good - tranny is too hot), and Tranny Light is FLASHING (Bad - you got problems... time to trade in your vehicle because no one works on these anymore!)
 
NOTE: some auto parts stores carry a scanner you can borrow to check for DTCs (diagnostic trouble codes). This info can be used to further diagnose your problem IF THERE IS A CODE BEING GENERATED.
 
If it is just the Tranny light coming on (not flashing), it sounds to me that the tranny is getting too hot. If you pull over and shut off the car for 20 minutes and restart, does the light go out? If so, you may have found the root cause and it may be 1)poor quality tranny fluid or low tranny fluid, and/or 2) a radiator that is no longer cooling your transmission.
 
Repeated overheating of your transmission will lead to premature failure. So will not changing the tranny fluid, but this is Isuzu's fault for stating that there is no need to do this, in both the owners manual and the service manual.
 
The 4L30E transmission is actually a good one, so if you can find a qualified tranny mechanic who knows how to work on a 4L30E, you are in luck.

#380 of 381 Re: Stalling [lovemyax] by walk_the_walk2

Sep 16, 2012 (5:47 pm)

Replying to: lovemyax (Sep 15, 2012 5:35 pm)
Stalling... and stalling after the vehicle has started, (at idle) not while trying to start it. Hmmm....
 
My first thought was plugged main fuel filter (there is a large one at the back of the vehicle on the rear drivers side underneath the car, near the left rear wheel - it is a metal canister type filter located near the gas tank and if not already replaced, should be replaced...
 
The full Isuzu Axiom service Manual has THREE mentions of stalling...
 
FIRST, it mentions EGR flow. Look below where it states this (please read to the bottom where "too much EGR flow" is mentioned):
 
"Linear EGR Valve
The main element of the system is the linear EGR valve.
 
The EGR valve feeds small amounts of exhaust gas back
into the combustion chamber. The fuel/air mixture will be
diluted and combustion temperatures reduced.
 
Linear EGR Control
The PCM monitors the EGR actual positron and adjusts
the pintle position accordingly. The uses information from
the following sensors to control the pintle position:
 Engine coolant temperature (ECT) sensor.
 Throttle position (TP) sensor.
 Mass air flow (MAF) sensor.
 
Linear EGR Valve Operation and Results of Incorrect Operation
The linear EGR valve is designed to accurately supply
EGR to the engine independent of intake manifold
vacuum. The valve controls EGR flow from the exhaust
to the intake manifold through an orifice with a PCM
controlled pintle. During operation, the PCM controls
pintle position by monitoring the pintle position feedback
signal. The feedback signal can be monitored with a Tech
2 as “Actual EGR Pos.” “Actual EGR Pos.” should always
be near the commanded EGR position (”Desired EGR
Pos.”). If a problem with the EGR system will not allow the
PCM to control the pintle position properly, DTC P1406
will set. The PCM also tests for EGR flow. If incorrect flow
is detected, DTC P0401 will set. If DTCs P0401 and/or
P1406 are set, refer to the DTC charts.
 
The linear EGR valve is usually activated under the
following conditions:
 Warm engine operation.
 Above-idle speed.
 
Too much EGR flow at idle, cruise or cold operation may
cause any of the following conditions to occur:
 * Engine stalls after a cold start.
* Engine stalls at idle after deceleration.
* Vehicle surges during cruise.
*  Rough idle.
 * DTC P0300 (misfire detected)."
 
Now, these Diagnostic Trouble Codes should be detectable. You can borrow a scanner at your local AutoZone or Advanced Auto or NAPA parts store, and plug it in and check for a code, if you can get there without getting stranded.
 
You can also buy an after market fuel filter for about $25.
 
The manual also mentions that this problem could be caused by a plugged up PCV valve, which is an INEXPENSIVE and EASY part to replace.
 
Note what it says:
 
"A plugged valve or PCV hose may cause the following
conditions:
 Rough idle.
 Stalling at slow idle speed.
 Oil leaks.
 Sludge in the engine.
A leaking PCV hose would cause:
 Rough idle.
 Stalling.
 High idle speed."
 
******
LAST BUT NOT LEAST, THE THIRD STALLING CAUSE can be the EVAP canister:
 
"EVAP Emission Control System Operation
The EVAP canister purge is controlled by a solenoid valve
that allows the manifold vacuum to purge the canister.
The powertrain control module (PCM) supplies a ground
to energize the solenoid valve (purge on). The EVAP
purge solenoid control is pulse-width modulated (PWM)
(turned on and off several times a second). The duty
cycle (pulse width) is determined by engine operating
conditions including load, throttle positron, coolant
temperature and ambient temperature. The duty cycle is
calculated by the PCM. The output is commanded when
the appropriate conditions have been met. These
conditions are:
 
 The engine is fully warmed up.
 The engine has been running for a specified time.
 The IAT reading is above 10C (50F).
 
A continuous purge condition with no purge commanded
by the PCM will set a DTC P1441.
 
Poor idle, stalling and poor driveability can be caused by:
 A malfunctioning purge solenoid.
 A damaged canister.
 Hoses that are split, cracked, or not connected
properly."
 
************
 
BOTTOM LINE: This is a fixable problem... you just need to find a good mechanic, and stop using your brother in law, and that other bozo you mentioned. Ask around. There are great mechanics in every town. This is probably a simple problem that could be bad fuel filter, bad PCV valve, bad plugs, or a problem with the EGR valve, Evap cannister, OR SOME COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE, but all are easily replaced. This is FIXABLE.
 
I hope this helps
 
Also, if you can get the DTC codes out of your Axiom, post back here and I can look them up in the Axiom Service Manual.

#381 of 381 Re: Stalling [walk_the_walk2] by walk_the_walk2

Sep 16, 2012 (5:50 pm)

Replying to: walk_the_walk2 (Sep 16, 2012 5:47 pm)
I go to a specialty mechanic in my town, but twice I have used local Firestone auto repair stores with great success. So, if there is not a good mechanic in your area, that is one possibility. Again, ask around.
To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement