Last post on Dec 10, 2013 at 1:28 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Tahoe, Electrical, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#372 of 459 Re: 2012 Chevy Tahoe "It Continues" [tiggerbad1]
Oct 11, 2012 (6:58 pm)
It's time to start reading up on the "lemon laws." Find this online at: http://www.carlemon.com/ or: http://www.bbb.org/us/auto-line/state-lemon-law/ to search by state.
Basically, if you keep bringing the car to the dealership for the same problem or similar problems.. ie: electrical, mechanical, safety matters, etc. .... The dealership is required by law to buy the car back and give you a full refund. It's time you begin reading about these lemon laws to fully understand your rights. The question is: How long are you going to wait for them to fix a car that should have been working fine in the first place?
#373 of 459 Flickering dash lights to no power to start....
Oct 18, 2012 (9:30 pm)
So, I have a 2005 Suburban, bought it new and have never had any electrical issue until last week. The first time I noticed this issue is when I was leaving for work. Went to start the vehicle and during the start sequence I had a small (quick) pause in the starting cycle( I lost power very briefly/quickly). Starter never disengaged and vehicle did start. I did notice after the vehicle started my clock reset to 12:00 am. With this in mind, I never had an issue during any other starting cycle again(so far). The clock on the other hand has randomly reset many times, both while the vehicle is running and when it's parked and off. This has been going on for a little over a week now.
The kicker is while coming home from work today, my dash lights went into test mode twice within 3 minutes of each other. This test is the same test you would see when you turn your key to accessory before starting vehicle and all of the dashboard light eluminate to ensure they work. The second random test left my battery light on the dash, which went out when I turned off vehicle and re-started. I have no codes or other abnormal lights on dash. Battery is fully charged. Altenator is good.
Three hours later, I went to troubleshoot my electrical issue only to find I had no power to anything; lights, locks, ignition. I managed to gain access to the engine compartment to see if anything obvious was at fault, no luck. Everything seemed fine and in working order. I went to give my wife the concerning news and while I was explaining that I couldn't start Suburban cause I had no power, I pressed the door unlock button only to hear a familiar chirp. My power seemed to have come back on all by itself. That is where I'm currently at with this issue. A lot of questions and no answers. Hopefully there is someone with an answer or a direction. I am currently hunting down a schematic of the wiring for my vehicle. Figured, I might be able to troubleshoot better if I know the names of the electrical parts.
#374 of 459 Re: Flickering dash lights to no power to start.... [torque6616]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Oct 19, 2012 (5:23 am)
Here's one place with free wiring diagrams for most cars. BBBind.
Oct 28, 2012 (7:41 am)
Many thanks to steve (HOST), used the url that he provided and found that it also provides access to the Tech Service Bulletins that GM issues and one of the issues they address is "Loss of High Speed GM LAN Communications, Intermittent No Crank, IP Gauge Fluctuation, Intermittent Door Lock Cycling / Chime Operation, Various IP Warning Lamps Illuminated, Trans May Not Shift", which sounds like what many posts on this thread are addressing.. And also has the potential to impact some of the other posts that are in here.. So might be wise for anyone making a trip into a garage to have some of these issues addressed to have this bulletin in hand. Hopefully it will help..
#376 of 459 Re: GM Service Bulletin [burned_twice]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Oct 28, 2012 (8:10 am)
TSBs can be a bit tricky and just because there's a TSB out doesn't mean the manufacturer or dealer will use one to resolve a problem (or at least not resolve it for free).
"These bulletins differ from recalls in that they are not considered safety or emissions issues and they usually apply only when your vehicle is in its warranty period (whereas a recall is "open" until the work has been performed). TSBs frequently (but not always) address a recurring problem and include illustrated instructions for repair, a list of the parts needed, the warranty status and the labor charge."
How Can a Technical Service Bulletin Help Me?
#377 of 459 Re: GM Service Bulletin [steve_]
Oct 29, 2012 (9:30 am)
I absolutely agree, (I have a 98 GMC that had a windshield wiper motor problem that was recalled on most other GM vehicles, but the garage pointed out the recall didn't specifically call it out for my VIN).. But I was just thinking that since so many of the posts indicate that the technicians seem to be at a loss for where to search for the problems, having this TSB in hand could be very helpful in possibly getting at least the problems fixed, and most of the things addressed in this TSB were far cheaper to address than the $300-$3000 for new parts and labor costs some had encountered.. One also needs to be careful when attempting to have "recall" work performed, I've seen dealerships (admittedly, somewhat less than reputable) try to tell people that the timeframe for addressing the recall had passed, so they could fix the issue but the cost would have to be at the owner's expense. So by all means, anyone trying to use this info, please do so with the cautions addressed by Steve, but hopefully the info will help..
#378 of 459 Re: GM Service Bulletin [burned_twice]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Oct 29, 2012 (9:50 am)
Sometimes just showing up with donuts or muffins works wonders too.
#379 of 459 Re: Paying for a car I can't drive [mhal1]
Nov 03, 2012 (6:16 pm)
Just reading here today and found your post succinct. So I will do the same. I have a 2004 Z71 (about 101K miles) tAHhoe to which I have really not had any issues to date, OTHER THAN I GET ABOUT 12mpg and from DAY ONE with NO HELP FROM GMAC...
Anyways, before I get upset again, I was drving down the road yesterday on the interstate. I was going about 77mph I think, and all of the sudden the car jerked forward slightly and I soon realized the engine was not running. All sustems appeared on, but I dont recall it the radio stayed on cause I was talking on the phone and had the volume down. But then the MSG indicator came up saying something about "Service Brakes" or "Check Break system". All still rolling along at 75 MPH with no power. And the Radio went from the Pearl Jam Channel on XM to the ELvis Channel... So I pulled the hazards and started to creep off the road, but quickly realized I could start in neutral so moved to neutral and cranked it uppulled it back down in drive (still going 55) and just hit he gas and went.
That was the first problem I have ever had with mine that was significant.
Yes these cars are having serious issues. My Wife's 2003 has had electrical problems it entire like and I am starting to think it has to do with door switch failures or malfunctions. NOT HAPPY ///
#380 of 459 2007 ltz tahoe electrical problem in driver side door
Nov 11, 2012 (5:58 am)
i have been having electrical problems with my truck since the day i bought it. You name the problem and i got it. Anyway, just recently i had my driver side door lose complete power to it. Now this has happened before but was self fixed after shutting the truck off for a while. I checked the fuse box that is located on the driver side by your left knee and blew the DDM fuse (driver door module). I replaced fused and still didn't work. I then removed the console which houses the buttons for the door locks, windows, side mirror etc. and noticed that there were 5 harnesses going to the buttons. I removed the harness connector labeled J1 (the biggest of the 5 connectors) and saw that it was completely fried and had that burnt plastic smell. Now, has anyone seen this? or know why this happened? I'm assuming it was drawing too much current. New harness??
#381 of 459 Tahoe electrical anomolies
Nov 26, 2012 (11:12 am)
Check the terminating resistor located on the rear cross member next to the spare tire. Should read 120-125 ohms. Little stinker causes lots of problems. Good luck