Last post on Dec 10, 2013 at 1:28 PM
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Chevrolet Tahoe, Electrical, SUV
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#303 of 459 Re: 2009 Tahoe Electrical/Computer Issues [nancy2009]
May 10, 2012 (3:01 pm)
Nancy 2009 -It sounds like you have read a number of posts before yours and yes, it is scary when your vehicle goes into "limp mode" and you're in cross traffic or any traffic for that matter. If you're in the Houston area I can tell you that there are no dealers that "specialize" in electrical problems with gm vehicles. I finally took my 09 Tahoe to Lonestar Auto Electric on the southwest side of town after getting nowhere with the chevy dealer up in Humble. Lonestar did find multiple problems and did fix the car and I drove it for around 6,000 miles to Florida and Maryland with no problems but it did have an episode of door lock cycling a few weeks back but that may have been related to the negative battery post coming loose. We tightened it and no problems since. The only other place you could try is a Christian Brothers shop on the west side off of hwy 6 near Bissonett, I think. However, if you take it to any shop other than a dealer they must have a Tech II scanner with up to date software in order to diagnose GMLAN issues. Good luck.
#304 of 459 Re: 2009 Tahoe Electrical/Computer Issues [t_tex]
May 11, 2012 (9:56 am)
Thanks so much for your reply and advice. My car is still at the dealership right now; I do not live in Houston but I do go there to see my doctor. I am going to make technician aware of this. I spoke to the GM at the dealership as it is also the dealership that I purchased the car at. I am still uncertain as to how GM can continue to ignore these expensive vehicles with such safety concerns; what angers me the most is the attitude regarding these issues as if it is no concern to them. I plan to continue on this pursuit for some sort of rectification of the problem. I do not think that GM or the dealership that I purchased the car at should be comfortable with me driving off with the vehicle that could malfunction at any given moment with no warning. It seems as though these automotive companies do not have to react until someone is killed and they are publicly scrutinized. I do, as I said though, intend to not let this issue go until I can be assured that I am in a vehicle that is safe for myself and my family. I do not believe that we should have to make the news for GM to think that this is an important issue.
#305 of 459 Re: 2008 Chevy Tahoe Electrical Problems [traveler2012]
May 17, 2012 (11:04 am)
Ok so my truck started acting up again by doing the chiming, door locks up and down, radio cutting on and off etc. I took it the mechanic and when I cut the truck off it wouldn't restart. No power, no clicking, nothing. Anyway, my mechanic (been going to him for years) ran a battery of test on the truck and found that the 175amp fuse on the firewall was shot and was barely connecting, which made the truck cut in and out. Fuse replaced and truck has been running great. Truthfully, I'm still pretty hesitant to say that it's fixed, after reading some of the other posts on here about multiple trips to the mechanic. Fingers crossed.
#306 of 459 Re: 2008 Chevy Tahoe Electrical Problems [bran164]
May 17, 2012 (4:50 pm)
bran164 - Can you be more specific on what fuse it was an where it is located? My 09 Tahoe has a fuse box in the engine compartment and another fuse panel inside the vehicle on the side of the dashboard just across from the driver's door but I can't find a fuse panel on the firewall. Thanks
#307 of 459 Re: 2008 Chevy Tahoe Electrical Problems [t_tex]
May 18, 2012 (5:19 am)
The 175 amp fuse I am referring to is located against the firewall on the passenger side under the hood. If you're looking at the battery (on the left) from the front of the truck it should be located above and slightly to the right on the firewall. It's not inside of a fuse box or anything like that, it's a stand alone fuse.
#308 of 459 Info Needed for Problems With 2005 Tahoe Z71 2WD
May 27, 2012 (8:34 am)
My wife and I have a 2005 Tahoe Z71 2WD that was purchased in 2010 with 80K miles. The vehicle has numeous upgrades. After driving the vehicle for a few months the following problems occured: 1) The dual heated seats started working intermittently. Over time only one could be turned on at a time but it would not stay on. 2) The ABS warning light began flashing with the warning alert dinging 33 times each time it activated. This began happening every time we drove the vehicle. A diagnostic test showed it to be the ABS module which is mounted on the drivers side frame (Dealer part priced at $1030.00. I found a used one at LKQ for $375.00. Only the top portion needed replacement. 3) The transmission went out without warning at a little over 100K miles (We were 150 miles away from home for the weekend when it happened and had to rent a car and be towed back home. A short inexpensive getaway ended up costing a fortune.) I replaced the transmission with a used one that had 69K miles, Hope it lasts. 4) the illuminated buttons on the steering wheel do no illuminate. I have asked mechanics about it but they are leary to mess with it due to the airbag. 5) some speedometer cluster lights are out. 6) One side of the A/C temperature selector does not illuminate 7) The fuel gauge will go from displaying nearly empty to all the way full without adding fuel. This also affects the Miles To Empty feature as if the tank was just filled up so if we didn't track our mileage we would think the tank was full and run out. 8) The passengers side mirror turns down intermittently as if it were in curb view and the mirror has to be re-adjusted. 9) The Driver 1 and Driver 2 seat settings do not stay programmed. 9) Occasionally the A/C blows hot air on the drivers side but stays cold on the passengers side. 10) The vehicle gets HORRIBLE gas mileage no matter how slow we drive or what octane fuel is used.
I know the post is long but any suggestions for any of the above problems would be greatly appreciated. We still owe too much money on the vehicle to get out of it so I would like it to work in a manner that all of the ammenities we paid for can be enjoyed.
#309 of 459 Sick of Electrical Problems
May 29, 2012 (6:07 am)
I have a 2005 tahoe that I bought with 15k miles on it. I bought the extended warranty through 88k and glad I did. I have had 3 transmissions, 2 4wd sensors, rear AC actuator, and something in the steering column under the warranty AT $100 a piece for deductible. I have 105k on it now and I am still having tons of issues. Rear AC went out almost 12 months to the day it did before and the dealership stated that it wasn't the actuator part that would be under warranty it was the housing around it (quoted at $400). I am having all the same issues with the reduced power message when i try and downshift to accelerate. I replaced the wiring and plug for the throttle and it didn't work. The dealership told me that the butt splices that come with the ACDelco part that i put in would not work and that I should solder them so I now have to try that. They recommended that if that didn't work i should replace the throttle body. We shall see. Not a year ago i was getting the Service 4WD light and i called the dealership to see what it could be. The advisor recommended that i put it in 4WD once a month in and around the yard and it should fix it and IT DID! Until today when i did it my normal route around the yard and got the Service 4WD light again after. I turned the truck off and back on and now the entire dash switch is out and i can't even put it in 4WD. I am sure they will want $500-$1000 for that one too. I would trade it in if i could do a new payment now but can't. Guess i will have to keep trying to fix myself! Never buying a Chevy again unless it is pre-80's with NO electrical anything!!
Seems that everyone is have one or more of the same issues!
#311 of 459 2007 Tahoe - Multiple Electrical Failures
Jun 15, 2012 (9:44 am)
I have been having the following problems with 07 Tahoe - 1) the rear wiper doesn't work; 2) the window on the rear lift gate won't open; 3) the driver's door lock will not work with the FOB or the panel button; 4) the driver information center (odometer, gas mileage, air pressure readings, etc.) is dead.
My dealer just diagnosed the vehicle with a short in the rear lift gate, a broken actuator in the door, and the need to replace the instrument panel cluster. Total cost is $1300. Based on my research, these all seem to be common problems with Tahoes of this era, but GM has not issued any recalls. Has anyone gotten anywhere by appealing directly to GM to cover some of the costs of these repairs. It seems like things like this would make their consumer satifaction ratings take a plunge. I'm not sure if I will stick with GM next time around.
#312 of 459 Re: 2009 Tahoe Electrical/Computer Issues [nancy2009]
Jun 17, 2012 (5:07 pm)
The last few months my 2009 Tahoe has been what I called possessed. The dash dings and blinks most of the time, the "stabilitrak" light flashed off, door knobs go up and down without warning, car alarm goes off for no reason, hestitates when accelerating at times which is very dangerous, a/c panel will go from 60 degrees to 74 and every light on the panel lights up so I have to set it back to where it was before the dash went bananas and not on 3 occasions, I will get in to go and nothing! Its like the battery is dead but I hear clicking on both driver and passenger side door where all the window and lock buttons are, my gauge needles are moving up and down slightly while making a buzzing noise. All of the noises sound like and electrical wire is barely connected but when we took it to the dealership for the day, they say they can find anything wrong. Said the even called GM to ask questions and got no where. Like others, I love my Tahoe....when it is doing what it is suppose to do. It only has 59k miles on it. Sometimes I think I will walk outside and its on fire or something or worse I can be driving thru a busy intersection and it stalls out. Nancy2009 and I have the same problem but no results. On friend told me the thought it was the body control module and would be expensive to replace as they have to reprogram everything which sounds wrong all the wa around. If it is something to this magnitude, then I feel GM should fix it as it is not like an alternators, battery or something that is normal when it goes out although nothing should be going out on a 4 yr old vehicle...