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Chevrolet Tahoe Electrical Problems

39 messages,  Last post on Sep 23, 2008 at 11:39 AM

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#30 of 39 2001 tahoe by rogelioevoxvi Mar 06, 2008 (10:11 am)
i HAVE A 2001 tahoe. and it has this problem when hurricane rita came a knocking it stalled in the freeway. complete dead was the battery. with some how messed up the fuel pump system. Now the fuel pump fuse breaker goes a 60 degree angle because if it put at it normal estate it will not turn on or cut off in middle of driving. has any one had this type of problem with other version of 2nd gen tahoe?
#31 of 39 Re: 2007 Tahoe Power Failure [2thebeach] by wyerivermarine Mar 08, 2008 (1:33 pm)
Replying to: 2thebeach (Feb 21, 2008 5:07 pm) Did you find out what was happening? My 2003 Suburban is doing the excact same thing. Please let me know.   rmwyerivermarine.com
#34 of 39 Electrical Glitches by linwillard Feb 29, 2008 (5:42 am)
Thank you in advance for any help. My 05 Tahoe's (LS) right back window quit working, and my driver window seems slower. Also, on the air conditioning panel, where you slide the buttons (dual air) up and down for cooler or hotter, the light on the left went out (not a big deal except I'm ready to resell), also the air/heat blower works fine on 1-4 (although it has always blown a little on 0--irritating at times), but turn it to 5 and you get nothing. A couple of times the doors wouldn't unlock, I thought it was the keypad battery(didn't change it), but then it worked fine again. Can I fix these on my own (warranty out) and/or what do you think the dealer would charge? Thanks again.
#35 of 39 2001 Chevy tahoe message center light by claybird51 Mar 10, 2008 (5:45 pm)
my cargo door ajar light will not go off, there is no obstruction and I dont know what sensors might be malfunctioning
#36 of 39 2001 chevy tahoe electrical problem by noshadetree Apr 07, 2008 (9:29 pm)
Any ideas? I attempted to start my tahoe this afternoon. It barely turned the engine a smidge and then clicked a few times. I heard the vehicle speakers clicking, quickly turned off the radio, and it continued to click for a minute or so. Tried to start vehicle and got absolutely no power. With a jump, go it to start, pushed on break and put in reverse and it died before it started moving. Couldn't get a good start after that. I few hours later, came back with high quality(4gage) cables, started it, backed it out and drove it home (3 miles). I tried to reproduce problem with loading electrical (AC/ back window defroster, lights, etc.. It continued to work, but periodically the RPMs would drop by half and lights would dim. Then, suddendly died and absolutely no power. (battery is new and tests good.) It is as if a master switch of some sort was shut off. If I provide an external jump, I believe it will start or get power in the vehicle again...ran out of daylight. Any ideas would be appreciated. Replies to this message: kiawah (Apr 08, 2008 5:02 am)
#37 of 39 Re: 2001 chevy tahoe electrical problem [noshadetree] by kiawah Apr 08, 2008 (5:02 am)
Replying to: noshadetree (Apr 07, 2008 9:29 pm) The symptoms sound like either a bad battery, loose/corroded terminals or wires connectors to the battery, a bad alternator which isn't charging the battery up, or something is defective and is draining the battery down while it sits.
#38 of 39 Re: 2003 chevy tahoe front passenger side door problem [urdaddy] by help22 Aug 14, 2008 (1:41 pm)
Replying to: urdaddy (Feb 28, 2008 6:45 am) I have an identical problem in my 03 Tahoe with only 49,000 Miles , HELP PLEASE , How did you correct the problem?
#39 of 39 Intermittent Electrical Issues/Robbed Power by nwp Sep 23, 2008 (11:39 am)
I have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe Z71. I recently replaced the 5.7 with a GM Performance HT383E engine. The engine is touted to have 322 HP and over 430 lb ft of torque when mated with OEM injection, exhaust intake, parts. While the engine is stronger, it is not representative of the claimed increases. I had already fitted the 5.7 with edlbrock headers, a flowmaster cat back system, an AEM Brutforce Intake, and a SUPERCHIPS power programmer. These additions made significant and noticeable gains on the OEM engine with 160K miles. When I put the new engine in, I was able to mate all those bolt-ons in the swap. However, it doesn't produce the neck snap one would expect with almost 100 more HP and 100 more lb ft of torque from factory specs. It just seems to be starving. It sounds really mean and has a noticeable lope with the stroker configuration, and it is a little more peppy, but opting for a $5k upgrade instead of a $2k upgrade is simply not being realized. I'm wondering if I need a high-output igntion system to aid in the burning of the fuel. I've noticed that the residue leaving the tailpipe is leaving a good bit of soot, indicating unburned gas escaping.   Now...onto other new issues...the truck idles with a slight surge, sometimes elevating to a rise in RPMs, countered by a reduction that almost mimicks dieseling. In addition, my wipers only work randomly and start and stop on their own. My AC blower is also not working all the time. Sometimes all the settings work and sometimes only some of the settings work, and sometimes none at all. Also...my previous engine lost oil pressure and the gauge moved a bit back and forth for a few minutes. When the truck was returned to me after the swap , the oil pressure gauge was stuck on a wide open (far beyond the highest pressure reading) position. It does not fluctuate or bounce at all regardless of engine speed.   So...that's about it... I love my truck. I was eagerly anticipating the performance beast I put under the hood. It seems I didn't get much of a bang for my buck and I now have "gremlins or ghosts in the electrical system". Any ideas?

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