Ask the Car People.SM


Kia Sedona Starting/Stalling/Idling Problems

249 messages,  Last post on Apr 03, 2013 at 11:19 AM

You are in the Kia Sedona Forum.

What is this discussion about? Kia Sedona, Van


Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153

Messages Page 18 of 26

#167 of 249 2005 Sedona Stalling in Heavy Traffic - No Codes by daveofphilly

May 06, 2010 (11:25 am)

my situation is a little different than most. i've read many if not all on this forum relavent to the 2005 Kia Sedona stalling in traffic issue. some are stalling at high speed, some are stalling when slowing down, others are stalling and throwing a code. My problem started at approximately 100,000 miles.
 
My 2005 Sedona LX (now, 109,000 miles) starts sputtering...ONLY... after it's warmed up, sitting in heavy traffic, and i'm accelerating from a stop or very slow speed. No Codes are thrown.
 
I've gotten two suggestions on this (one part i had replaced yesterday...so we'll see). One suggestion from mechanic is that their call to California Kia (HQ?) gave them a suggestion from techs that a tech bulletin was issued on 'hot - stall,' and that the suggestion was the Throttle-body Position Sensor should be changed. Done. We'll see if it works.
 
by thhe way, the second suggestion came from a UTI (Universal Technical Institute) Drivability Instructor who had previously worked at a Kia/Hundai dealer. He put a meter (flight data recorder..they sometimes call it), and found all the numbers very close to perfect, or at least in range....except...the long-term fuel trim, bank #2 was showing a very lean reading. He said that reading came from the O2 (oxygen) sensor. He looked at the O2 sensor for that bank and found it showing a lean reading as well. So, how to fix that??? He was going to look around a bit at some tech bulletins, etc. and get back with me. I'm not in contact with him, so haven't been able to follow up yet, but he didn't have a definite 'smoking gun' part that he suggested changing because of it. A lot of theories, nothing concrete.
 
I chose to change the TPS and see what happens. If it works I'll post it here. If nothing, I'll only try a few other cheaper options until it gets bad enough to have 'had enough', then I'll get rid of it! We're a one-car family and can't have it down a lot because of this problem, but so far, it's been predictable. 1) hot weather, 2) traffic - hot engine 3) giving it fuel from low idle. I'll, actually, be looking to duplicate these three conditions before too long, when i get a free afternoon (in case i'm stuck on the side of the road for a couple of hours) to see if the TPS fixed it or if i get any of these symptoms again.
 
We also had other major service done: timing belt (never changed yet), spark plugs (scheduled to change at 100,000), Injector flush. All totaled $1500.00 I invested it because, up until this sporadic problem that can only be duplicated in hot-heavy traffic, our Sedona has been near perfect! We have loved it...and would love to have this problem fixed. hope the TPS does it.
 
Yes, i've read in the forum A LOT!!!!!....about rotors and brakes. I changed the pads and rotors on this thing 4 times in the first 80,000 miles. (this is the 'near' of the 'near perfect' rating that i mentioned before). However, no problems since then. why? because i replaced the rotors with slotted/drilled high performance rotors that i bought from a rotor company off of the internet and installed myself (it's easy) and the semi-metalic pads that were suggested by the rotor company. I stopped replacing with the thinner Kia rotor that has a tendency to warp when hot and stopped using the ceramic pads, which i notice Kia has stopped using as OE on their newer cars too (at least from what i was told by a parts person). The slotted rotors are a little more noisy, but they stay cooler and no more problems ! (in fairness to Kia, I also changed out both of the rear brake pistons ....forgot the name of the little thing.... because they were both showing slight leakage). This is wierd that they both went at the same time and i attribute it to the pressure having to be placed on the front bad brakes and rotors.
 
All of that to say. The brakes are fine now, and the van has been a gem for us. We've owned bad cars and good cars. This has, for 100,000 miles been one of our better choices (price included).
 
I'm not paid by kia, work for kia, and would prefer to buy a Honda van (or Toyota if they can get it together), but for the money, we haven't been disappointed with our Kia purchase. We feel we've gotten our money's worth out of it.
 
By best suggestion is: give yourself plenty of margin in your schedule. It's a healtheir way to live anyway : )
 
chat again later

#168 of 249 Re: jomad4@yahoo.com [judy56] by topkitty27

May 09, 2010 (10:52 am)

Replying to: judy56 (Mar 03, 2010 7:23 am)
Most of the time when you cannot reinsert the key, it is because the key was removed before the lock was in the proper off position. This happens with keys that are extremely worn or have been improperly duplicated. Just insert the tip key and GENTLY turn counter-clockwise. Usually you will then be able to insert the key and it will function normally. It is also possible that the vehicle has a improperly generated cut combination from after market servicing or have the locks changed. These are pretty easy to spot because the tip of the key will be more narrow than the cuts that are closer to the head of the key. Similar to an arrow head. Just remember to NEVER use excessive force when the problem occurs as this could result in expensive repairs. A real, automotive locksmith can ordinarily repair and reconfigure the lock, to be less prone to malfunction. Unfortunately it is a recurring problem due to manufacturing tolerances that are in low end vehicles to reduce the cost. 25 years ago it was Datsun (Nissian today) that was the nightmare. I repaired many, many of these vehicles in the late 70's throughout 80's until ignition lock was redesigned. I spent 30+ years as a master locksmith and instructor and this would be my best guess. Good luck! Hope this helps!

#169 of 249 #167 Update by daveofphilly

May 12, 2010 (11:12 am)

So far so good....
 
No more stalling after changing the TPS - Throttle Body Position Sensor (limited high heat situations so far, but seems to be working).

#170 of 249 Re: 03 kia sedona mystery stalling [oechsli] by kskid

Jun 09, 2010 (7:50 am)

Replying to: oechsli (Dec 29, 2009 10:34 am)
Yes! I have been having the same issue with my 02 Sedona. It's in the dealership for the 6th time in less then a month, of course they just called and told me they could not get it to stall for them. We've spent over $1,000 so far and it's still not fixed. We are very discouraged with Kia right now.
Any advice?

#171 of 249 02 Sedona stalling and surging by kskid

Jun 09, 2010 (7:55 am)

Our 02 Sedona has been surging forward when coming to a stop and also stalling from time to time. It was in the dealership 4 times in 1 week in May and has been in 2 times this week. Of course the dealership cannot seem to get it to stall on them and claim the surging, which only started after the "fixed" it the 1st time, is normal and it's shifting into 1st.
Has anyone else had these problems?

#172 of 249 Reply to: 03 kia sedona mystery stalling - our by daveofphilly

Jun 09, 2010 (9:09 am)

Replying to: kskid (Jun 09, 2010 7:50 am)
It 'seems' that we've hit on the solution, though none of the experts thought that what we did would have made any difference. Let me say that we had several things done at the same time, so we're not sure which it was that fixed it. I took it in for the following (we're at 110,000 miles on our '05 Sedona LX):
 
Timing belt change (this was supposed to be done at 60,000)
Spark Plugs changed (platnum: recommended at 100,000)
fuel injection flush (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)
Throttle Body Position Sensor - TPS (trying to solve the bucking problem in traffic)
 
The TPS change was a 'bulletin' that had been posted by the California Kia Tech line as a "high heat, stalling' fix.
 
We have been sitting in heavy traffic since this work was done. The engine has gotten hot (not by temp dial), and would have, before this work was done, stalled or started bucking during acceleration from a stop, and it has not done it any more since the work was completed. So, to date, the problem is fixed.
 
It might have been a combination of the TPS, spark plugs, and injectors. Or it might have been any one of them (the timing belt wasn't likely the fix). However, Kia California would put their money on a faulty TPS. For what it's worth. let me know if this seems to fix it.
 
David
Philadelphia

#173 of 249 Re: engine problems [mattone] by jirka

Jun 20, 2010 (8:38 am)

Replying to: mattone (Apr 05, 2010 6:21 pm)
Well, we have the problem again. Our 2007 Sedona worked for more than a year but today, the car suddenly switched to the limb mode again, engine does not respond to the gas panel, the ESC OFF light is illuminated. I needed to restart the car about 15 times to drive about 15 miles. Few times it drove just 10 feet or so. It is really dangerous to drive it. Last time (i.e. about one year ago) they replaced the TPS. I wonder wether it broke again or wether they did not fix the problem back then and we were just lucky it did not surface for such a long time.....

#174 of 249 Re: engine problems [jirka] by jirka

Jun 21, 2010 (6:16 am)

Replying to: jirka (Jun 20, 2010 8:38 am)
The same codes again: P2106, P1295, P2135. Today the car has worked perfectly. They say it could have been caused by the rain (it was raining yesterday). At least they acknowledged it should not happen. Not sure if it is related, but when the car is cold the engine runs unevenly for few minutes.
 
Unfortunately, I am out of the country, so I cannot use the warranty. If I knew I would have so many problems with it, I would have never bought it.

#175 of 249 Re: engine problems [jerryb_kc] by airmama

Jun 23, 2010 (8:29 pm)

Replying to: jerryb_kc (Apr 18, 2009 4:51 am)
I had a same problem with our 2006 Kia Sedona at about 71,000 miles.
- The Check Engine and ESC-OFF lights turns on.
- The engine continues to run but nothing happens when you push the accelerator pedal.
- Turning the engine off and the restarting fixed the problems temporarily.
- However, I can feel the acceleration power loss.
- When I checked the engine malfunction signal at autozone, it dispalyed P1295, P2106, P2135.
 
Real problem is tha I already passed factory warrant miles, ...
All that I have is 3 month powertrain warranty program (engine, transmission, drive axle). I wonder if this malfunction can be covered by this warranty.
How much will it cost and if it happens again dealership would fix it without charge?

#176 of 249 Re: engine problems [airmama] by jirka

Jun 24, 2010 (12:17 am)

Replying to: airmama (Jun 23, 2010 8:29 pm)
If I remember it right, the cost was about $450. According to this thread at kia-forums, they should change TPS and update the software.

Messages Page 18 of 26

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement